thook

Mr. Brown has a good......make that excellent.....write up in his link. It's how I learned. Have you tried reading that, yet?

I don't have much time for replying more, at the moment. In the process of working on my brakes, so I'm doing research. Just thought I'd pop in and see if anything's blown up.

BigSwole

nope nothin blew up,

i was putting the tabs that connect to the "butterfly" on the tabs that are on the tps and it was causing the lever to be about an inch from the stop screw....

which made me get a crazy number on the meter..

once i redid that i got the first part pretty close and the part with the cc pretty close but its still giving me the code...

im going to continue to fiddle with it, hopefully after enough times, it'll change its mind about being a broken part and just work

havent had a chance to upload the pics yet but im gunna make me a build thread here soon.

thook

You're adjusting it wrong. The VTA circuit is the throttle angle circuit. It tells the ECU how far throttle is open. Your only meter reading concern in regards to testing VTA is with closed throttle and fully open throttle. The credit card usage tells you nothing. But, don't bother with testing the VTA until you get the IDL-E2 within range. IDL adjustment or verification is what your code is all about. The TPS is basically a switch. The IDL (idle circuit) is the switch signal your ECU's not happy about.

Blow off using feeler guages, for now. Try this: With the motor running and the TPS a tad loose (just loose enough to turn it in either direction towards or away from the motor), turn it all the way towards the motor, and then back until you reach the point in which the idle RPM changes. This is the point at the TPS is detecting the throttle plate's idle position. If you do not get this change, the IDL circuit in the TPS is bad. No amount of adjusting will fix it. You'll need a new TPS. If it does happen to change, meaning the TPS is detecting the idle position, stop at the position at which the idle is lower, tighten one screw down, and then check it with your meter and feeler guages.

BigSwole

hey thook, i am getting a idle drop.

i did as you said, and if i put it all the way back it idles high, so then i take it and slowly pull it back towards me, when the idle drops i take it and tighten it down,

im about to check it with the meter but, if you hit the gas, it hesitates before reving, and has a small backfire...

(and if it makes a difference, someone stole my cat, so my exhaust is super loud right now...yeah, if it were driving, i would be "that guy" at the intersection...)

BigSwole

ok so with the meter i got the following results...

VTA-E2 (fully closed) 1.02
VTA-E2 (fully open) 5.16

im going to read up some mroe and check with a cc just wanted to post resluts in case anyone read before i got back.

still getting the hesitation when first applying the gas. kinda stutters before revving up.

thralldad

Swole;
I'm following this! I want to learn from what you're doing. I'm waiting til Saturday A.M. before diving into mine. 100* in TX!

BigSwole

thrall, we are right there with you, it was 99' when i was working on it today.

i ended up turnin the shop fan around so while i was working i had the fan blowing straight onto me, it made such a huge difference. our heat index has been at nearly 110 the past few weeks.

i believe i got the tps pretty close to where it should be, but then again im still getting a code flashing, im only getting a few hours at a time to work on it.

im just going with this..."its all ready f'd up, what else could go wrong"

worse case senario i have to buy a tps...

i was hoping i could find someone with a toyota who would let me use their tps but i dont want to be in a predictament with 2 toyotas flashin this code lol hopefully tomorrow ill fiure out if its bad or not...

i wish there were a way to just test to see if its bad instead of all this mm turning of a part that is nearly impossible to get to.

BigSwole

update:

today i tackled the speedo cable install only to find out i had the wrong part..

so while i was returning the bobo speedo cable from advance i picked up some feeler gauges to do the tps adjustment, i will try and update as soon as possible tomorrow. but im sure it will be around 2:00 EST. i have to go to USPS and pick up a package then to NAPA to check on another speedo cable...

if anyone has any personal tips let me know!

thx in advance

thook

Okay. Those readings are within spec. What do you get on the IDL-E2 terminals? I'm also going have you run a sweep test on the VTA-E2 terminals. Hook up your meter, slowly open the valve plate to all the way open, and watch the meter when you're doing this. The ohm reading should steadily climb up to about midpoint of the throttle plate movement and then steadily drop off again as you're approaching wide open throttle. This little test will tell you if there's damage along that circuit. If there is, it means voltage is dropping out at those points. This is a normal thing from age. But, see what happens, eh.

thook

I know it's a bugger to get to the TPS. Some people <<<ehem...me>>> actually just take the TB off to adjust the TPS or inspect. Much easier than fooling with barely any space to work with. You could pull the thermostat housing off, but then you have to mess with coolant and resealing the housing.

Anyway, I didn't realize you didn't have any feeler guages. No wonder you're having some difficulty. The test I had you run by pivoting the TPS with the engine running is really just to see if your TPS will register the throttle plate's idle position. Now we know it will, but that doesn't rule out that it's bad or good. Get the feeler guages on there and inspect the resistance on the IDL-E2 contacts and run that sweep test. These are the last things you need to do with it.

BigSwole

hey thook,

i do believe when i get done i will deserve a masters degree in aggravating parts on a toyota. lol

i have found a way to remove//install//adjust with everything but a few vacuum lines connected. so it is getting easier. however its still not right, i will run the tests tomorrow, and get it set up correctly and report back to you what i find out.

i guess now i just need to cross my fingers and hope all go's well.

BigSwole

OK.

Todays adventure has been one heck of an adventure. went to napa and picked up the speedo cable. Perfect replacement, for 120$ less than what the dealer wanted. plus it was already lubed and good to go.

I used my new feeler gauges and started messing with the TPS, i wasnot able to get it right until i got some home made gator clips to hold on there while i moved it around. then i got it dialed in, in a matter of minutes. FOR FUTURE REFERENCE. USE ALLIGATOR CLIPS. you will aprreciate them very quickly.

Once i got it dialed in, i put it all back together cleared the codes, and jacked teh rear end up to test the speedometer, as well as how it would run..

Whhaaaaaaat? 50 miles per hour...how did it shift out of second?

anyways, took off down the dirt road across the street, and i cut off... out of gas...

im sweatin bullets now, just knowing a cop would come by...no tag, no insurance, no taillights, no exhaust (stolen cat), buddy of mine rode by so i waved him down and got towed back to the house. went and got gas, cleared the codes again. and added gas...

Once i put gas in, it quit cutting off when i first hit the gas..(well duh you dummy)..ALL I NEEDED WAS GAS!!!

so i took it for a drive again, this time it rode good, and everything worked fine, im idlin fine and its revving fine. but still getting a code 51, but NO CODE 63 for the tranny...

still confused about that one...

so now do i just need to get a new TPS? its adjusted to spec but im still getting a code...


YESSUH!!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Check that the signals from the TPS are actually reaching the ECU:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...roubleshooting

BigSwole

im pretty confident in tackling any job on any vehicle...but that scares me lol..

i actually have NO CLUE what that all said. im more confused and less confident in myself in getting it done after reading that lol....

so um....

Whaaaaaaaaat?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

In simple terms, you have measured the various resistances at the connector on the TPS itself, correct? Well, then measure that same signal at the ECU connector. After all, you can have the most perfectly adjusted TPS in the world, but if there is a wiring issue between it and the ECU, it means nothing. So you can eaither check wiring continuity between the TPS and ECU connectors (ECU under dash on passenger side) or you can just perform the TPS resistance checks at the ECU connector.

BigSwole

ok so last sunday i coughed up the money to buy a new TPS.

it came in on tuesday and i went and picked up my 100$ part that can fit in my pocket...

im getting ready now, im about to go install it and get it adjusted and see if this fixes my problem...

wish me luck

BigSwole

still getting a code 51, and it is idle-ing a little high soim going to assume i must have bumped it or something while tightening it down, so im about to go back and RE_ADJUST and check it again...

BigSwole

im still getting a code 51 and i know it is adjusted within spec, what the heck is a code 51.

it runs fine, but i keep getting code 51 no matter how many times i clear it, im still very pleased with my recent 100$ purchase that got nothing accomplished.

im pretty sure you cant take electrical parts back once they've been put on?! am i correct?

thook

I can tell you're having loads of fun.

BigSwole

hey thook, nice to see you again lol!

ok so i drove my truck home tonight, only about 15 miles, but it did pretty good i reckon.

my OD light is flashing only once i start driving, (code 42 everytime) my haynes manual says something about it gets the code from being inbetween a certain rpm for a certain time and the ecu not getting a reading from something. I for the life of me have no clue where to start with this, and search has yielded 0 answers.

next up,

still getting the code 51 while driving, and yes thook i havent checked the resistance at the ecu yet, which i hopefully plan on doing tomorrow, any how to threads?

also a new problem, when im driving it down the road or anywhere for that matter, and i let off the gas i get 3 different lights, e-brake, A/T fluid light, and battery light...
The lights arent dimming and are im not cutting out so im thinking bad ground? hopefully not the alt.

but as soon as i touch the gas again, the lights disapeer.

any ideas fellas! (thook)

Thanks in advance!!