TPS removal
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TPS removal
Whos is the idiot that put this thing in the most aggravating place to get too?
What is the best way to get the screw out, i cannot get any screw driver to get a bite on it..
22-re
Im removing because i got a code 51. it only comes on when i hit the gas though, has a crazy idle "sometimes" when i put it in drive, but a quick hit of the pedal usually makes it idle ok for a few min/sec
What is the best way to get the screw out, i cannot get any screw driver to get a bite on it..
22-re
Im removing because i got a code 51. it only comes on when i hit the gas though, has a crazy idle "sometimes" when i put it in drive, but a quick hit of the pedal usually makes it idle ok for a few min/sec
#2
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google is awesome.
in case anyone else needs help with this...
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
in case anyone else needs help with this...
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
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holy (insert outragoues word)
ive never seen so much carbon build up in my life
im taking the whole throttle body apart, becuase its like nearly 1/2" thick of build up...
ill try to get some pictures up tonight.
im hoping the TPS is just gunked up causing it not to work...
any ideas people?
ive never seen so much carbon build up in my life
im taking the whole throttle body apart, becuase its like nearly 1/2" thick of build up...
ill try to get some pictures up tonight.
im hoping the TPS is just gunked up causing it not to work...
any ideas people?
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ok update,
kinda feel like im talking to myself here....
im still getting error code 51..
i guess i will need to adjust the TPS and i will have to mess around with it tomorrow, back home now. i cannot get it to idle at all, it just shuts down. however, with the removal of all the build up the motor revs better, higher, and cleaner, i can def tell the throttle response.
it could stand to be cleaner but thats for another day once i solve the problems.
i read somewhere that if the TPS is faulty and you unplug it, it should idle up and even out, if its not faulty, when you do that it will idol crazy... what it correct?
kinda feel like im talking to myself here....
im still getting error code 51..
i guess i will need to adjust the TPS and i will have to mess around with it tomorrow, back home now. i cannot get it to idle at all, it just shuts down. however, with the removal of all the build up the motor revs better, higher, and cleaner, i can def tell the throttle response.
it could stand to be cleaner but thats for another day once i solve the problems.
i read somewhere that if the TPS is faulty and you unplug it, it should idle up and even out, if its not faulty, when you do that it will idol crazy... what it correct?
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hey thook, thanks for replying.
i havent yet tested it, however i have to replace my pcv hose, grommet and fitting first, the PO had it siliconed in place to quit it from leaking and throughout my removal of the throttle body i tore the silicone, and im not going to just silicone it back up.
i read that the pcv being tore creating a huge vacuum leak could be a good bit of m y problem so i am goin to replace that and go from there, also im going to try and get the swivel headed allen bolts to make adjustin it easier. becuase who wants to pull the throttle body off everytime lol
am i right to start off replacing the pcv parts first?
i havent yet tested it, however i have to replace my pcv hose, grommet and fitting first, the PO had it siliconed in place to quit it from leaking and throughout my removal of the throttle body i tore the silicone, and im not going to just silicone it back up.
i read that the pcv being tore creating a huge vacuum leak could be a good bit of m y problem so i am goin to replace that and go from there, also im going to try and get the swivel headed allen bolts to make adjustin it easier. becuase who wants to pull the throttle body off everytime lol
am i right to start off replacing the pcv parts first?
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i will be getting them installed tomorrow around lunch time, i'll post back then on what changes i get.
would the TPS being out of adjustment be causing it to throw a code?
would the TPS being out of adjustment be causing it to throw a code?
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well i was getting a code 51-only when i hit the gas, just cranking it wouldnt produce any code.
so i completely cleaned the throttle body (was like 1/2" + full of gunk) and reinstalled the throttle body and put the TPS back on. turned the key and ot a code 51 plus the OD liht blinked a code 63 (ive been needing a code for the tranny) but until i cleaned the throttle body it wouldnt produce...weird i know.
during the throttle body reinstall i tore the "rigged" silicone job on the pcv hose, i pulled the neg side battery cable to clear the codes, i still got a code 51, but no 63...(confused)
unhooked the TPS and then i recieved a code 41 and 51...
thats where im at.
EDIT: forgot to mention, with the huge vacuum leak going on i am unable to get it to idle, but it sure does rev better
so i completely cleaned the throttle body (was like 1/2" + full of gunk) and reinstalled the throttle body and put the TPS back on. turned the key and ot a code 51 plus the OD liht blinked a code 63 (ive been needing a code for the tranny) but until i cleaned the throttle body it wouldnt produce...weird i know.
during the throttle body reinstall i tore the "rigged" silicone job on the pcv hose, i pulled the neg side battery cable to clear the codes, i still got a code 51, but no 63...(confused)
unhooked the TPS and then i recieved a code 41 and 51...
thats where im at.
EDIT: forgot to mention, with the huge vacuum leak going on i am unable to get it to idle, but it sure does rev better
Last edited by BigSwole; 07-29-2010 at 09:01 PM.
#11
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Code 51 means idle contact in TPS is out of range. 41 means no TPS connection at all as if the part were missing altogether......which is what happens when you disconnect it, if you catch my drift.
Check the adjustment on the TPS. If the IDL setting is out of range, try readjusting. If it won't adjust out, the TPS is bad.
On the code 63, that's one of the tranny solenoids. Read this link:
http://www.toyotaholics.com/support/...sp?TOPIC_ID=19
After resetting/clearing the codes, if the 63 comes back, follow some of the suggestions from the link. Are you having any tranny issues? You have an electronically controlled transmission. The transmission operation is dependant on TPS and coolant temp sensor values, atleast. There maybe be other engine sensor, I forget. I haven't read about the auto trannies a lot, and what I read was a while back. So, I've forgotten a number details.
Here's a good link:
http://www.autoshop101.com/
Read the articles on automatic transmissions, when you have time. It's a lot of reading, no doubt.
Check the adjustment on the TPS. If the IDL setting is out of range, try readjusting. If it won't adjust out, the TPS is bad.
On the code 63, that's one of the tranny solenoids. Read this link:
http://www.toyotaholics.com/support/...sp?TOPIC_ID=19
After resetting/clearing the codes, if the 63 comes back, follow some of the suggestions from the link. Are you having any tranny issues? You have an electronically controlled transmission. The transmission operation is dependant on TPS and coolant temp sensor values, atleast. There maybe be other engine sensor, I forget. I haven't read about the auto trannies a lot, and what I read was a while back. So, I've forgotten a number details.
Here's a good link:
http://www.autoshop101.com/
Read the articles on automatic transmissions, when you have time. It's a lot of reading, no doubt.
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THOOK!!!
ty for verifying my thoughts and giving me more, i read on another thread that a guy was having problems with his truck shifting until he got WOT he cleaned the throttle body and found out it was gunked up and that solved his problem, so i crossed my fingers and embarked on the journey, sure enough i got the code i needed.
(truck wont shift out of second when put in drive) i had the biggest smile on my face knowing it was the solenoid and not the WHOLE THING!!!
so i got the 41 becuase i unplugged it-good
i have the 51 becuase its out of spec - gunna spec it up tomorrow!
only thing that confused me was the code 63 went away and never came back?
i'll know more tommorow around lunch time and be sure to post back with my findings, wish me luck..
Thx for the links, i have done more reading involving this truck then i have in a long time, it aint no chevy, thats for sure.
have you ever changed the shift solenoids in a tranny? i was reading that its not to hard, but i cant afford to f up...
ty for verifying my thoughts and giving me more, i read on another thread that a guy was having problems with his truck shifting until he got WOT he cleaned the throttle body and found out it was gunked up and that solved his problem, so i crossed my fingers and embarked on the journey, sure enough i got the code i needed.
(truck wont shift out of second when put in drive) i had the biggest smile on my face knowing it was the solenoid and not the WHOLE THING!!!
so i got the 41 becuase i unplugged it-good
i have the 51 becuase its out of spec - gunna spec it up tomorrow!
only thing that confused me was the code 63 went away and never came back?
i'll know more tommorow around lunch time and be sure to post back with my findings, wish me luck..
Thx for the links, i have done more reading involving this truck then i have in a long time, it aint no chevy, thats for sure.
have you ever changed the shift solenoids in a tranny? i was reading that its not to hard, but i cant afford to f up...
#13
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Honestly, no I've never done it. Never had to. I don't know what to tell you in regards to the code 63 coming on and leaving. I haven't researched those issues enough. I just know TPS and other engine sensors affect the timing of transmission shifting and, in part, how they do that. For example, the torque converter won't lock up until the motor's reached operating temp. The ECU determines trans. shifting timing according to engine load (TPS) and the solenoids are repsonsible for shifting.
Another good link:
http://www.familycar.com/transmission.htm
Another good link:
http://www.familycar.com/transmission.htm
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if there is a facepalm smiley i need it. someone post it for me...
during my re-installation of the throttle body i left off a WHOLE LINE. the vacuum line coming from the brake booster was left unhooked. talk about a leak lol
well i got the new pcv grommet and "pcv connector" put in, and im able to let it run, im still getting a code 51 so im about to adjustthe tps and see where that gets me, hopefully all it needs is an adjustment.
but the code 63 did come back, thats weird how the motor not running right dictates the codes for the transmission being thrown.
so far its been a good day, im working on a deal for a set of tires and rims, 16" bullet hole with tires for 120$ so hopefully that will pull through.
during my re-installation of the throttle body i left off a WHOLE LINE. the vacuum line coming from the brake booster was left unhooked. talk about a leak lol
well i got the new pcv grommet and "pcv connector" put in, and im able to let it run, im still getting a code 51 so im about to adjustthe tps and see where that gets me, hopefully all it needs is an adjustment.
but the code 63 did come back, thats weird how the motor not running right dictates the codes for the transmission being thrown.
so far its been a good day, im working on a deal for a set of tires and rims, 16" bullet hole with tires for 120$ so hopefully that will pull through.
#15
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Hahahaha.....yeah, that happened to me after I had to rebuild my 22re from a timing chain failure. Simply would not start and run! Doh!!!!
DTC's will not be set until certain circumstances are present. IOW, certain voltage or operational requirements need to be met for the ECU to operate any specific system. If they aren't met or present, then the ECU sets a DTC. Some of these malfunctions have to present a certain amount of time, even. It's a somewhat large, complicated subject.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
Oh, and here's your emoticon...........
DTC's will not be set until certain circumstances are present. IOW, certain voltage or operational requirements need to be met for the ECU to operate any specific system. If they aren't met or present, then the ECU sets a DTC. Some of these malfunctions have to present a certain amount of time, even. It's a somewhat large, complicated subject.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
Oh, and here's your emoticon...........
Last edited by thook; 07-30-2010 at 10:57 AM.
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thanks for the smiley link, im sure ill need it again shortly lol
i had to come in to get the "dummy's guide to tps setting"
the deal worked out on the tires and rims, so i just got those put on, i dont think i did too bad, payed a little more than id like to but i have 2 sets of tires for a 16" rim...
so it'll pay off in the long run...
i also went to the hardware store and picked up some screws to replace the little aggravating screws in the tps...heat index is over 100 today and im sweating bullets. then heat from the engine, then the shop is like an astounding 9000 degrees.
anyways, enough wining. about to get back to work.
after i make an adjustment do i need to reset the codes so it can "rediagnose it" ?
i had to come in to get the "dummy's guide to tps setting"
the deal worked out on the tires and rims, so i just got those put on, i dont think i did too bad, payed a little more than id like to but i have 2 sets of tires for a 16" rim...
so it'll pay off in the long run...
i also went to the hardware store and picked up some screws to replace the little aggravating screws in the tps...heat index is over 100 today and im sweating bullets. then heat from the engine, then the shop is like an astounding 9000 degrees.
anyways, enough wining. about to get back to work.
after i make an adjustment do i need to reset the codes so it can "rediagnose it" ?
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im back to re read the adjustment instructions, i actually made it worse, granted i tried to just get it close before breaking out the ohm meter, but no matter which way i turn it, all i get is the motor surging.
Reving way up then nearly off way up then nearly off.
Reving way up then nearly off way up then nearly off.
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anyone happen to have a picture of the "throttle lever touching the throttle stop screw"
i think i know which one it is, but my haynes is useless, and if i am right then i may have a bigger problem, the "i think" throttle stop screw is a good ways from the actual throttle lever.
im searching now but no luck so far.
EDIT: also want to say im using the ohm meter but my readings are way different.
instead of a 0.2-0.8 im getting like a 0.05, what am i doing wrong to get the extra zero?
i think i know which one it is, but my haynes is useless, and if i am right then i may have a bigger problem, the "i think" throttle stop screw is a good ways from the actual throttle lever.
im searching now but no luck so far.
EDIT: also want to say im using the ohm meter but my readings are way different.
instead of a 0.2-0.8 im getting like a 0.05, what am i doing wrong to get the extra zero?
Last edited by BigSwole; 07-30-2010 at 02:07 PM.
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ok problem solved...
:banghead:
i put the tps on wrong, after i redid it im getting the following reading.
vat-e2 fully closed. 0.63
vta-e2 with credit card 0.53
does this mean its bad? or?
its idling fine with no code being thrown, but as soon as you give it any gas...code 51 thrown back up...
:banghead:
i put the tps on wrong, after i redid it im getting the following reading.
vat-e2 fully closed. 0.63
vta-e2 with credit card 0.53
does this mean its bad? or?
its idling fine with no code being thrown, but as soon as you give it any gas...code 51 thrown back up...