Toyota Long Travel
#81
Registered User
x10 i want pics!!! and i just saw a ruffcountry 4" lift that didint have the mounting ears cut off? is that just a procomp thing or somethin?? ill DEF get pics tmr...im soo lazy
#82
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
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^^ its your stock frame mount that gets cut/trimmed.
The front passenger side diff crossmember bolt holes to be exact...
I like the whole idea, but it just seems to easy.
The front passenger side diff crossmember bolt holes to be exact...
I like the whole idea, but it just seems to easy.
#83
Registered User
yeah i kno but i saw a rough country lift on a thread a min ago and his werent cut so i was just wonderin, and a few people didint know what i was talking about when i said i cant go back to stock from my bracket lift.....unless
#84
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Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
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Well, like I said its not the lift bracket that gets cut. Its your original frame.
So unless that guy is selling a drop lift with part of the stock frame attached he doesnt make any sence
You could easily get your truck back to stock.
Metal is easy, you can heat it, bend it and smash it back into submission. A good welder could re-attach the part of the frame that gets cut without a problem...
So unless that guy is selling a drop lift with part of the stock frame attached he doesnt make any sence
You could easily get your truck back to stock.
Metal is easy, you can heat it, bend it and smash it back into submission. A good welder could re-attach the part of the frame that gets cut without a problem...
#85
Registered User
lmao that was the point of the welding hat dealy, i know i can get it back to stock with some welding...i just dont have a welder, and i was just thinking aloud when i wanted to get the kit just didint want to stack it, but if i got it i would just take out the 3" body and go down to a 1" or somethin, and still fit the 35"s
#86
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Far Nor Cal
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i was at a local shop way back when i first heard of total chaos and their long travel setup. got to talking about prices and they quoted me like 4k+ for me to roll in and have them do every thing.
then i asked how much travel i would gain...he said 3 inches and my jaw dropped....i was like thats insane
i could SAS,lift,winch+ bumpers for that much $$!
so this bolt on kit DIY style is peeking my interests. would love to see pics in action and maybe some vids. if i get some money together soon ill grab it and get some vids,pics of it.
then i asked how much travel i would gain...he said 3 inches and my jaw dropped....i was like thats insane
i could SAS,lift,winch+ bumpers for that much $$!
so this bolt on kit DIY style is peeking my interests. would love to see pics in action and maybe some vids. if i get some money together soon ill grab it and get some vids,pics of it.
#87
Registered User
That particular frame section didn't have the ears cut. I just used it to take photos and do the mock up. My brother has a Superlift 4" kit and my Blazeland Long Arms on his truck. It is in working order. He has been wheeling on that configuration for 2 years now. No alignment issues when he got it aligned at Firestone either. Check out the other photos I am attaching. I was trying to figure out what shock configurations might work. If you look closely you will see a bunch of things not hooked up.
Last edited by BlazeN8; 05-18-2010 at 10:06 PM.
#88
Registered User
lmao that was the point of the welding hat dealy, i know i can get it back to stock with some welding...i just dont have a welder, and i was just thinking aloud when i wanted to get the kit just didint want to stack it, but if i got it i would just take out the 3" body and go down to a 1" or somethin, and still fit the 35"s
#91
Registered User
#93
Registered User
#94
The new site looks good. Can't wait to see a video of this kit!!
I was thinking and I saw a guy get 12-13" out of stock width arms but he used Rancho UCA's. I was thinking that if you did exactly what he did and then bolted on the extended LCA and bolt on UCA extension onto the Rancho arm if you could get quite a bit more? Probably around 14-15" I think?
I was thinking and I saw a guy get 12-13" out of stock width arms but he used Rancho UCA's. I was thinking that if you did exactly what he did and then bolted on the extended LCA and bolt on UCA extension onto the Rancho arm if you could get quite a bit more? Probably around 14-15" I think?
#95
Registered User
i've heard of ALOT of guys having problems with the Rancho UCA's...so i'd watch out..they said the UCA's tend to break in half..although i'm guessing you could probably brace them up to make em stronger..
#96
Yea I heard about that, I was thinking if I got a set I would just jig off them and weld up some stronger ones, the tubes used on the Rancho ones don't look to think so I can see why they'd snap. Or I could just sleeve the Rancho's and reinforce them.
I just think it'd be nice to have more travel than a TC kit at less cost, $5000 is a little steep for another 3" of travel LOL.
I just think it'd be nice to have more travel than a TC kit at less cost, $5000 is a little steep for another 3" of travel LOL.
Last edited by ckblum; 09-20-2009 at 11:46 AM.
#98
Well up here in Canada, it's $2000 US for the kit, plus shipping, duty & tax, exchange rate, comes out pretty much double and all I got to show is some brake lines and tubular arms, steering extensions and some bushings. I still need to buy shocks, shock hoops, fiberglass (although I could just use lawn edging flares and chop my fenders LOL) all shipped from the US so again the taxes, duty and shipping all doubles the cost. So really it'd end up being more than $5000 if I do it nice and clean with fiberglass and everything. Then I still need to do my rear hahaha.
Don't get me wrong, I love the work Total Chaos does I just don't have the budget for it especially being in Canada. If I lived in California it would be a different story but then again I would probably still end up buying a Blazeland kit LOL. You don't always have to pay to play. I saw a guy who had his rear shackles made out of pieces of angled stock, and raced on them for years, people would always point them out but they worked just as well as any tubular graphite impregnated greasable bushing w/ mother of pearl inlay shackles LOL. People forget how simple things can actually be to work.
I plan on just running a bed cage in the rear w/ 12" shackle over the frame rail and maybe getting my leaf pack rebuilt or finding a used set of Deavers. Also theres a good shop up here and I might be able to get some used leaves off them too, I even saw they had some old Ivan style fenders sitting in a trailer.
Don't get me wrong, I love the work Total Chaos does I just don't have the budget for it especially being in Canada. If I lived in California it would be a different story but then again I would probably still end up buying a Blazeland kit LOL. You don't always have to pay to play. I saw a guy who had his rear shackles made out of pieces of angled stock, and raced on them for years, people would always point them out but they worked just as well as any tubular graphite impregnated greasable bushing w/ mother of pearl inlay shackles LOL. People forget how simple things can actually be to work.
I plan on just running a bed cage in the rear w/ 12" shackle over the frame rail and maybe getting my leaf pack rebuilt or finding a used set of Deavers. Also theres a good shop up here and I might be able to get some used leaves off them too, I even saw they had some old Ivan style fenders sitting in a trailer.
#99
what this kit needs is a shock mount similar to the one downey used to sell. Not the double shock hoop, the bolt on shock tower so you can run a longer shock and remove the tower when you need to pull your UCA.
#100
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Arizona the great South West
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Just curious, if this kit uses T100 axels are T100 U/L CA's longer as well? And if so could they be made to fit in this aplication? As they are probably heavier duty.