Touched battery terminals with wrench no power to anythi
01-30-2017, 06:20 PM
#21
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Could you send me a link to the type of heavy duty wire clamp I will need? Can I just put the two wires together with butt connectors?
Also, will the 12 gauge fusible link be best for this application since the heavier wire is 8 gauge? On the Oreillys link I only see 14 gauge and up.
Also, will the 12 gauge fusible link be best for this application since the heavier wire is 8 gauge? On the Oreillys link I only see 14 gauge and up.
01-30-2017, 11:33 PM
#22
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I am not sure of the gauge size but here is some information for the link, 80 amp fuse and how to access it. The 80 amp fuse slides out the bottom. Usually if you have complete loss of power, it is the 80 amp or the fusible link, Most cases it is the 80 amp fuse and I get mine at Orielly. Sure other part stores have them.
Here is a picture of the Fusible Link. It is connected to 80 amp fuse and to the positive battery cable. The white part is the actual link. Took me awhile to find this out.
Here is the Fusible link attached. You can get the fuse at any part store. The screws hold it on are TIGHT!!!
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Here is a better update of the Fusible Link..
When I ran into this on my 88, I thought someone had did a cheap repair job, but it is actually a factory Fusible Link. Chef helped me figure this out back then. It is crimped to the Positve pigtail coming off of your Postive Post.
All of the other fuses lift up and out. The 80 Amp you have to pry this tab to the firewall and push out the bottom.
Here it is mounted to the Fuse. It mounts behind the wires. I usually have to take a 8mm socket to the screws the first time. They can be TIGHT.
Here is the Fusible link attached. You can get the fuse at any part store. The screws hold it on are TIGHT!!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is a better update of the Fusible Link..
When I ran into this on my 88, I thought someone had did a cheap repair job, but it is actually a factory Fusible Link. Chef helped me figure this out back then. It is crimped to the Positve pigtail coming off of your Postive Post.
All of the other fuses lift up and out. The 80 Amp you have to pry this tab to the firewall and push out the bottom.
Here it is mounted to the Fuse. It mounts behind the wires. I usually have to take a 8mm socket to the screws the first time. They can be TIGHT.
01-31-2017, 05:57 AM
#23
Terry, scope
Thanks fellas,
I would have sworn, well I effectively did anyways, that they no longer produced that assembly. I agree the stranded type FL wire is only different in the use of a more flame resistant outer sheath, the fiberglass sheathing is belt&suspenders to keep it isolated once the sheathing is compromised. I do prefer a solid core style as they don't partially fail leaving you wondering why the dash lights up but the headlights (for example) cause a brown out.
I was kind of hoping Rad would stop by and provide a link with the walkthrough, I recall he did a good clear picture one?
The heavy duty clamp is just a large gauge butt connector without the plastic cover, a c formed bit of metal about a 16th thick and 1/4 inch wide. Make sure there is a bit of overlap and twist captured in the clamp before you crimp for a good mechanical joint.
the OEM repair wire looks to be part# 88921 and still available for 10-20$. That is a repair wire, not the assembly, which I expect will need reattached to the plate.
And now for my ADD wandering thru assembly diagrams, really?? we had a winch option hmpf!
I would have sworn, well I effectively did anyways, that they no longer produced that assembly. I agree the stranded type FL wire is only different in the use of a more flame resistant outer sheath, the fiberglass sheathing is belt&suspenders to keep it isolated once the sheathing is compromised. I do prefer a solid core style as they don't partially fail leaving you wondering why the dash lights up but the headlights (for example) cause a brown out.
I was kind of hoping Rad would stop by and provide a link with the walkthrough, I recall he did a good clear picture one?
The heavy duty clamp is just a large gauge butt connector without the plastic cover, a c formed bit of metal about a 16th thick and 1/4 inch wide. Make sure there is a bit of overlap and twist captured in the clamp before you crimp for a good mechanical joint.
the OEM repair wire looks to be part# 88921 and still available for 10-20$. That is a repair wire, not the assembly, which I expect will need reattached to the plate.
And now for my ADD wandering thru assembly diagrams, really?? we had a winch option hmpf!
01-31-2017, 07:53 AM
#24
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Thanks to all for the information so far.
I have placed an order for some 12 to 8 gauge heat shrink butt connectors (these are pricey), 12 gauge fusible link wire, and ring terminals.
In the event this doesn't fix my problem, are there any other fusible links on the negative terminal side or ground wire? Are there any fusible links going from the positive terminal back to the starter which i need to check? It is a 1991 pickup w/ 22re.
I really hope this fixes my no power to anything problem.
I have placed an order for some 12 to 8 gauge heat shrink butt connectors (these are pricey), 12 gauge fusible link wire, and ring terminals.
In the event this doesn't fix my problem, are there any other fusible links on the negative terminal side or ground wire? Are there any fusible links going from the positive terminal back to the starter which i need to check? It is a 1991 pickup w/ 22re.
I really hope this fixes my no power to anything problem.
01-31-2017, 09:36 AM
#25
The larger gauge wire on the assembly runs to the starter. You can weld some very heavy gauge steel and not burn it up, there is no fuse there.
Fuses are always on the positive side of wiring, never the ground side or they wouldn't be able to protect the device. No fuses on the ground wire.
You could have done some damage to the ground system however depending exactly where you shorted the positive line to.
Since it blew the fuse did not directly connect the battery terminals. You connected who knows what so you'll probably want/need to disconnect, inspect and either clean or repair the ground points and wires.
OK so.
if you shorted say a bit of exposed FL to the battery hold down power flowed out the link into the body and back thru the nearest ground wire connected to the battery. Which would be the smaller strap.
If you dropped a wrench and it shorted the FL to the intake or its brace, again it flowed current by the shortest path which would be the large gauge wire connected somewhere along the intake or near the AC bracket mounting holes.
If those were less than perfectly connected they would have arced and will now have increased resistance which may or may not show up untill they are subjected to current flow.
If nothing else it gives you a project while you wait on shipping since you've chosen to order stuff instead of hit the parts store.
Try to figure out exactly what you connected it may have damaged other components. I think the odds are good you had exposed wire on the FL section and it did its job and will be OK, but if you damaged something down stream of the primary fuse it's going to melt your repair either when you connect it or sometime later like when your try to start the engine.
Fuses are always on the positive side of wiring, never the ground side or they wouldn't be able to protect the device. No fuses on the ground wire.
You could have done some damage to the ground system however depending exactly where you shorted the positive line to.
Since it blew the fuse did not directly connect the battery terminals. You connected who knows what so you'll probably want/need to disconnect, inspect and either clean or repair the ground points and wires.
OK so.
if you shorted say a bit of exposed FL to the battery hold down power flowed out the link into the body and back thru the nearest ground wire connected to the battery. Which would be the smaller strap.
If you dropped a wrench and it shorted the FL to the intake or its brace, again it flowed current by the shortest path which would be the large gauge wire connected somewhere along the intake or near the AC bracket mounting holes.
If those were less than perfectly connected they would have arced and will now have increased resistance which may or may not show up untill they are subjected to current flow.
If nothing else it gives you a project while you wait on shipping since you've chosen to order stuff instead of hit the parts store.
Try to figure out exactly what you connected it may have damaged other components. I think the odds are good you had exposed wire on the FL section and it did its job and will be OK, but if you damaged something down stream of the primary fuse it's going to melt your repair either when you connect it or sometime later like when your try to start the engine.
01-31-2017, 01:45 PM
#26
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I am only going by experience and have never had the Fusible Link to blow. It has always been the 80 amp fuse. One was where someone jumped the battery with the cables crossed and another one was where the Power Steering pump leaked down on to the Alternator and caused a fire. Both times the 80 Amp fuse blew. I bought a truck with a blown fuse and never did find what caused it to blow.
01-31-2017, 06:12 PM
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I sure hope my problem is the fusible link because after fixing the link, checking grounds, and doing some testing with a multimeter in the fusebox, I won't know what else to try. Now I just have to wait on parts. The parts store is far from my house and sometimes they don't have exactly what I need.
02-01-2017, 06:53 AM
#28
Reassurance
I sure hope my problem is the fusible link because after fixing the link, checking grounds, and doing some testing with a multimeter in the fusebox, I won't know what else to try. Now I just have to wait on parts. The parts store is far from my house and sometimes they don't have exactly what I need.
With a partly melted fusible link, or any fuse for that matter, what happens is when power is applied the resistance of the damage causes the fuse to heat up which in turn causes the resistance to increase. One this resistance climbs past a certain point there is so much voltage drop you experience what is called a "brown out" down stream. A brown out is simply low voltage..
02-03-2017, 07:25 PM
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Received my parts today and replaced the fusible link. I now am not 100% sure this was my initial problem but the previous fusible link was only hanging on by a few threads so it needed to be changed anyways.
After replacing the fusible link, I put key in ignition without cranking and all my lights were working.
Then I went back to finish tightening battery terminals. Tried to start and no power again.
I then jiggled ground wire running from negative terminal to fender. My lights and accessories again started working so I knew I narrowed down the problem.
The ground looked like it was still well connected to the negative terminal even though some pieces of the copper wiring had frayed and broken away. Apparently it still needed to be changed out because I couldn't get power. After installing new battery terminal and making a new ground wire she started immediately.
It's been 25-26 years since the battery terminal and ground wire have been on there so it was defintely time for a change.
Thanks again to all for the help. Now back to figuring out why she keeps dying at idle after reaching operating temperature. This was the problem I was trying to fix by cleaning EGR valve but still no luck on figuring this out.
After replacing the fusible link, I put key in ignition without cranking and all my lights were working.
Then I went back to finish tightening battery terminals. Tried to start and no power again.
I then jiggled ground wire running from negative terminal to fender. My lights and accessories again started working so I knew I narrowed down the problem.
The ground looked like it was still well connected to the negative terminal even though some pieces of the copper wiring had frayed and broken away. Apparently it still needed to be changed out because I couldn't get power. After installing new battery terminal and making a new ground wire she started immediately.
It's been 25-26 years since the battery terminal and ground wire have been on there so it was defintely time for a change.
Thanks again to all for the help. Now back to figuring out why she keeps dying at idle after reaching operating temperature. This was the problem I was trying to fix by cleaning EGR valve but still no luck on figuring this out.
