SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Try driving it with the TPS unplugged. If that works, replace the TPS.

Jagman60

Thanks, I tried that but no difference, still not running

Kiroshu

Possible overheating fuel pump.

Punchy

Test change EFI relay.
Check EGR system might be stuck open then snaps closed over the cooling time.
Wonder if airflow meter could be warped and not make full swivel while hot.

first86yota

I have a similar problem. I bought a 86 with water in the oil. I pulled a 22r out of a 83ish with a carb and pulled all the carb stuff off and put the injection stuff on an put it in. They truck will crank when u spray fuel in the intake even with the fuel pump straight wired.. . It has plenty of fuel pressure i believe my injectors are not pulsing.. or no power to the computer..Any help will be much appreciated

Jagman60

OK, I just changed the TPS and it made no difference. Car Idles fine but if you try to rev it up at a certain point it just cuts out. Also cleaned O2 senser and checked EGR by sucking on vacumn line to top, car pretty much stalls when you apply vacumn. As for "first
88toyota" Really check all your grounds, Thats what was causing my earlier problems with injectors

Jagman60

OK, I just ran through every vacumn line on the rig. I have hooked up a RPM gage and I find she runs strong but cuts out at 3000 rpm every time. Does anyone know anything about a fuel cut out, I read something about it but dont know what where or how it works, need to bypass it and figure out if that is it. HELP!

COONDAWG

I had the same problem on my 94 4x4 22re. found out that the fuel pump was working but was not maintaining enough pressure when accelerating. I changed the fuel pump and it fixed the problem. I was instructed by my mechanic to kink the return fuel line, it is located on the passenger side of the motor toward the back - a rubber line that should have a rubber jacket on it. kink the line and hold it tight with a pair of flat pliers. while holding the line kinked wait about 3-4 seconds and rev your motor manually. if it revs up the pump is your problem. BE CAREFUL not to hold the line kinked too long, it will build up too much pressure and blow your line seals.

Jagman60

Ihad tried that earlier, clamped return line but it didnt seem to help, how do I check codes?

Jagman60

Do I need to jump something to make the light blink ? The check engine light is not on

COONDAWG

mine wasn't throwing a code either nor did the clamping of the line work. however, the mechanic did a fuel pressure test and changed the pump. he said it had enough pressure to keep it idleing but not at acceleration. I THINK he said it needed to maintain 42lbs, not sure. but yes to check the code you have to jump E1 to TE1, again I THINK, in the little square box next to the fuse box under the hood on the passenger side. use a paper clip.

Jagman60

Thanks, I found the directions for checking the code and it threw a bunch, but I cleared them because I figured they were from me plugging and unplugging things during troubleshooting,after clearing all codes, now it just blinks when you have the jumper in and goes out when you pull the jumper, no codes

Jagman60

I want to install a permanent fuel pressure gage, I think I am gonna tap the fuel line banjo bolt and screw in a fitting to it. First Im gonna order a new bolt from toyota in case it does not work

superex87

How about your ignition components. Could be a weak coil or your spark plug gap is too large. Closely inspect your injector wiring, it is common for the wires where they are spliced to corrode and have problems.

Jagman60

The spark looks very healthy, I'm gonna open up the wires this morning and look at the splices

Jagman60

Splices are all shiny and good, nothing to see there. Guess Im back to the fuel system.

Jagman60

Just broke down and pulled the fuel filter, mud and rust came pouring out, hope thats it, have to wait to get new filter.

Kiroshu

^-- Good find.

Jagman60

Just to add information, dropped the tank and the thing was full of rust and chips and human body parts etc. The nylon screen disintergrated and all the rust was jammed up in the pump also. The reason I resisted the idea of it being the pump and filter was because they are only a few (8) months old. But I guess those screens don't hold up too long.

first86yota

I have replaced all my grounds with thicker wires. the previous owner had a cluster of speaker wires tied together. I have a great grounds and plenty of fire. I have power to the pump and plenty of fuel to the rail. It still will only run with the gas that is sprayed into the intake. The plug in were you can read the codes under the hood is one big electrical tape of wires together...