Timing Cover Leak fixes
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Timing Cover Leak fixes
IF, you've ever pulled off the timing cover for whatever reason and didn't pull the head, you might have had or are having issues getting it to seal.
things to look for...
Did you munch the head gasket when you put the cover back on?
fix: cut off the head gasket cleanly at the block (save that skinny piece of crap) then use it as a template to make an OVERSIZED gasket (make it big enough so you can hold on to it and help guide it into place), using the cut off piece to make the " hidden " bolt hole line up in the right spot.
Did you put FIPG on the threads and shank of the "hidden" bolt?
fix: USE TOYOTA FIPG OR ULTRA BLACK FIPG
Did you put FIPG on the end of the bolt inside the cover, of the bolt that runs thru the top of the oil pump?
fix: put a dab of TOYOTA FIPG over the end of said bolt. INSIDE the cover.
Did you pinch the oil pump Oring ( if you had it off, or replaced it)?
fix: take some FIPG on your finger and thumb run and roll the entire O ring thru it coating the O ring with FIPG then carefully put it in the groove of the oil pump. It won't move and will help seal it off.
Did you check the harmonic dampner for a groove from the oil seal?
fix: buy a seal that has a sleeve that fits over the dampner.
Did you use Toyota FIPG or Ultra Black FIPG on the cover?
fix: USE TOYOTA FIPG OR ULTRA BLACK FIPG!!!
Did you get the correct length bolt in the correct location?
Fix: use the LC ENGINEERING illustration for correct location and length of bolts.
Did you tighten the " hidden" Bolt BEFORE you tightened the cover bolts?
Fix: tighten this"hidden" bolt first you'll be glad you did!!!
Did you let the FIPG set up for 15 minutes before you torqued the cover bolts?
Fix: go get a beer, coffee, favorite beverage and give the FIPG time to set up a bit.
IF you did those things and had no issues you should not have any leaks unless your cover is cracked, which happens a lot, because the cover bolts get tightened, BEFORE the " hidden" bolt and it cracks it... very, very hard to see the crank, BUT it will leak !!
things to look for...
Did you munch the head gasket when you put the cover back on?
fix: cut off the head gasket cleanly at the block (save that skinny piece of crap) then use it as a template to make an OVERSIZED gasket (make it big enough so you can hold on to it and help guide it into place), using the cut off piece to make the " hidden " bolt hole line up in the right spot.
Did you put FIPG on the threads and shank of the "hidden" bolt?
fix: USE TOYOTA FIPG OR ULTRA BLACK FIPG
Did you put FIPG on the end of the bolt inside the cover, of the bolt that runs thru the top of the oil pump?
fix: put a dab of TOYOTA FIPG over the end of said bolt. INSIDE the cover.
Did you pinch the oil pump Oring ( if you had it off, or replaced it)?
fix: take some FIPG on your finger and thumb run and roll the entire O ring thru it coating the O ring with FIPG then carefully put it in the groove of the oil pump. It won't move and will help seal it off.
Did you check the harmonic dampner for a groove from the oil seal?
fix: buy a seal that has a sleeve that fits over the dampner.
Did you use Toyota FIPG or Ultra Black FIPG on the cover?
fix: USE TOYOTA FIPG OR ULTRA BLACK FIPG!!!
Did you get the correct length bolt in the correct location?
Fix: use the LC ENGINEERING illustration for correct location and length of bolts.
Did you tighten the " hidden" Bolt BEFORE you tightened the cover bolts?
Fix: tighten this"hidden" bolt first you'll be glad you did!!!
Did you let the FIPG set up for 15 minutes before you torqued the cover bolts?
Fix: go get a beer, coffee, favorite beverage and give the FIPG time to set up a bit.
IF you did those things and had no issues you should not have any leaks unless your cover is cracked, which happens a lot, because the cover bolts get tightened, BEFORE the " hidden" bolt and it cracks it... very, very hard to see the crank, BUT it will leak !!
Last edited by 87-4runner; 01-05-2021 at 05:29 AM.
The following users liked this post:
SomedayJ (01-06-2021)
#2
This is the fix, and it's a Toyota seal that fixes the problem. No need for a sleeve. Drive the seal all the way until it seats.
#3
YT Community Team
The best way to avoid leaks is to pull the head. You'll do a better job, it doesn't take that much more time overall, and you won't be googling "22r leaking oil after timing chain replaced".
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
have you ever done it without pulling the head? It's WAY EASIER. Just had a learning curve on how to do it without leaks.
This was kinda of a guide for those that choose to not pull off the head.
Last edited by 87-4runner; 01-05-2021 at 08:36 AM.
#5
YT Community Team
Over my years I've seen Toyota techs come up with some short cuts that do save time from the factory method, but not often. Usually what allows the tech to do a job faster is a certain tool or equipment they acquire or just became available. Like having torque sticks for lug nuts instead of walking around with a torque wrench. I had automated parts washers so they could put the part in, close the door, and go back to work without them having to stand over a solvent tank scrubbing.
Toyota has a vested interest in the FSM showing the quickest method, while still doing a proper job. Their warranty times are based on a tech using the procedure in the book, and they have to pay the dealer accordingly. So if Toyota thought a 4.5 hour procedure could do the job over one that pays 8.7 hours they'd be all over that in a heartbeat.
If someone wants to try and do a timing chain without pulling the head all the way fine, have at it. But considering the average age of a timing chain I gotta think the headgasket is going to be due soon, too. Can't think of a better time.
Toyota has a vested interest in the FSM showing the quickest method, while still doing a proper job. Their warranty times are based on a tech using the procedure in the book, and they have to pay the dealer accordingly. So if Toyota thought a 4.5 hour procedure could do the job over one that pays 8.7 hours they'd be all over that in a heartbeat.
If someone wants to try and do a timing chain without pulling the head all the way fine, have at it. But considering the average age of a timing chain I gotta think the headgasket is going to be due soon, too. Can't think of a better time.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Good point... I had a head gasket failure and replaced it with an lce gasket and ARP STUDS and didn't want to redo all that along with pulling the turbo off...argh
The following users liked this post:
Jimkola (01-05-2021)
#7
YT Community Team
Oh boy. Painful to need a chain if the headgasket had been done in the last year or two.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
or, when you are a dumbass [me], and forget to torque the chain guide bolts properly, and the brand new timing chain and brand new headgasket with less than 500 miles on them has to be replaced, because the new chain snapped when one of the guide bolts backed itself out and dropped down between the chain and crank sprocket, snapping the chain. good times!
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
or, when you are a dumbass [me], and forget to torque the chain guide bolts properly, and the brand new timing chain and brand new headgasket with less than 500 miles on them has to be replaced, because the new chain snapped when one of the guide bolts backed itself out and dropped down between the chain and crank sprocket, snapping the chain. good times!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
YotaTron88'
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
1
10-27-2009 06:39 PM