When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looks like its suppose to be. Doesn't rub up against the guide per se, but will touch it and rub slightly during high rpm. At least that's what its suppose to do. When the chain stretches it will rub it more if the tension can't compensate. The guide protects the timing cover as you know.
Push that tensioner in and out all of the way and make sure it doesn't bind at all.
Sealant: I was thinking on top of the block but That does not seam right now.
So im thinking front of the block facing the radiator. or the top as well?
What about the bottom?
Fount of the block as well as over the gasket/bottom of the timing chain cover?
Now the timing chain cover seems to be .003/0.06mm to tall ( I was doing a test fit) . I don't want this to keep the head from sealing. I'm thinking it from the gasket at the bottom. Should i just cut that out and Ultra gray replace it or ultra gray over it and let the bolts pull it where it needs to be.
Oh yea one other question. Can I torque the timing cover up before i put the head back on? I read somewhere it has to be dome at the same time.
"Now the timing chain cover seems to be .003/0.06mm to tall ( I was doing a test fit) . I don't want this to keep the head from sealing. I'm thinking it from the gasket at the bottom. Should i just cut that out and Ultra gray replace it or ultra gray over it and let the bolts pull it where it needs to be. "
Its a little disjointed. Try to look at this and re-write it so its a little easier to understand.
I'll tell you what I think it means:
The timing chain cover is higher than the block deck? This is because of the gasket on the oil pan?????? Or simply its just taller because its new and your block may have been decked. If you remove the gasket on the oil pan [if there is one?] and the timing cover is still taller than the block then you have to stop right there!!! You need to get an accurate measurement of exactly how tall and make a trip to a machine shop. When you are finished having it trimmed then yes a little ultragrey can make up any difference. Let it set up before torquing things up. The timing cover cannot be taller than the block deck!
I put everything on and hand tightened everything. I torqued the head bolts to 25lbs. With the cover I hand tightened everything until the Ultragrey started being visable squeezing out and then stop. Let it sit overnight and torque the next day. [at least an hour!!]
Some may do things a little different.
"Now the timing chain cover seems to be .003/0.06mm to tall ( I was doing a test fit) . I don't want this to keep the head from sealing. I'm thinking it from the gasket at the bottom. Should i just cut that out and Ultra gray replace it or ultra gray over it and let the bolts pull it where it needs to be. "
Its a little disjointed. Try to look at this and re-write it so its a little easier to understand.
Sorry its been a long day.
I'll tell you what I think it means:
The timing chain cover is higher than the block deck? This is because of the gasket on the oil pan??????
Yea I'm thinking it is from the now non-compressed cork gasket at the oil pan, Its been off for over a week.
Or simply its just taller because its new and your block may have been decked. If you remove the gasket on the oil pan [if there is one?] and the timing cover is still taller than the block then you have to stop right there!!!
See pic below
You need to get an accurate measurement of exactly how tall and make a trip to a machine shop. When you are finished having it trimmed then yes a little ultragrey can make up any difference. Let it set up before torquing things up. The timing cover cannot be taller than the block deck!
I put everything on and hand tightened everything. I torqued the head bolts to 25lbs. With the cover I hand tightened everything until the Ultragrey started being visable squeezing out and then stop. Let it sit overnight and torque the next day. [at least an hour!!]
Some may do things a little different.
I want a head and torqued the 29ft bold in just to see and it seemed to line up ok. so i put a light behind it and got this.
I can't see any light behind it and used a 0.04mm/.0016 feeler gage and it would not pass under.
"I want a head and torqued the 29ft bold in just to see and it seemed to line up ok. so i put a light behind it and got this.
I can't see any light behind it and used a 0.04mm/.0016 feeler gage and it would not pass under.
Click the image to open in full size.
So im guessing it was just not on all the way.
__________________
OK, I guess it has been a long day for you. Lets see: "I want a head and torqued the 29ft bold in just to see and it seemed to line up"
And to make things worse you picture won't open so I can't see what you are talking about. I have no idea? Sorry
I would cut out the cork gasket, I'm surprised there is a cork one there to begin with???? Don't think toyota ever used cork so it must have been opened up before. Clean the oil pan surface real good and then use the ultragrey on it when you assemble
Ok the head is going on to night ( I hope) but....
Does the sealant go on top of the block or the head gasket? or both?
Originally Posted by Obmi
Ok I re-checked the block with the precision straight edge and a feeler gauge its all in speck.
It looks scratched up really bad, but i cant feel any of it when i went over it with a razor blade and its been that way for at least 75k miles.
I have no option to pull the engine and have it decked. ( I live in an apartment and have to do that all on the down low) But Im going to spray the new head gasket with the Permatex - Copper Spray-A-Gasket stuff and roll the dice.
Now are the red lines the right place to apply the permatex ultra gray? Does that work the same for the oil pan or the whole thing. I would like to run it about 50-100 miles and change the oil and drop the pan and clean it. If my timing chain comes in I will be doing it Sunday when the office is closed.
Also I have head of people cutting the timing cover part of the gasket off. I don't plan to do this or understand why they are doing it.
No I had to pull the head. It was leaking and cracked. When I had it off i saw the timing chain guide was busted and eating in to the cover. So I just bought a new head and whole timing guide kit. With cover , Water pump and oil pump.
On a quick note. How do people prime the oil pump on the 22re?
I primed the oil pump with the actual oil that was going into the crankcase. I read people used Vasoline but several 22RE rebuilders told me no. Just a little bit of oil will do.
I did mine with the head on and found the head gasket in good shape so when I reinstalled the timing chain cover, I put Ultra Grey in those corners you have highlighted in red, onto the head gasket then carefully slid the timing chain cover into place.
I have a question when I torque my bolt for the ballencer on the crank shaft at around 20 ft pounds it snapped my timing chain sprocket on the crank shaft. This is the second time this has happened. It cracks right where the pin is to keep it in place. Has anyone else had this issue or any ideas on wht it might be or how to fix it? Got all my stuff at o'Reilly auto
I stuck some socket extenders through the sprocket to keep it from having any force on the sprocket. Also you need to bind the engine so its not moving. If you are using the timing chain to keep the engine from turning that would not be good.
I actually should have bought the three foot long one instead of four foot cause I ended up cutting an extra foot off. Also I got 1.5 inches wide since they didn't have 2" at the big box store.
10-13-2015 | 04:39 PM
Ok last (Probably) of the timing chain questions.
