toyospearo

Probably this years H1N1 strain of the flu. So many people here have had it. It seems to hit the healthy people really hard.
I got it last year for the first time in my life. I laid in bed for one month, lost 20 lbs. I would have gone to the hospital but I was so weak I couldn't move. I had friends of mine bring me food. I feel your pain. Hang in there, you will be better before you know it.
BTW, I got a flu shot this year. First time ever. I am flu free so far!

mattk

Not sure what we got but its nasty. Like you said cant even get out of bed. My wife and I have gotten the flu shot for years so who knows....

87hoerunner

hate to hear that man take care of yourself and your wife your toyota will wait for you lol

mattk

Ok got a chance to work on the truck tonight. Here is what I did. Pulled the valve cover and pulled the crank pulley. Made sure that the crank key way was at 12. Checked the cam sprocket and it was way off. Put the crank pulley back on and wouldnt you know that the notch lined up exactly with 5 degrees. So I made my own notch at the 0 and painted it. Moved the cam so that the dowel was at 12 and got the cam sprocket back on. Stabbed in the dizzy but may have done this wrong. I stabbed it in with the pulley at 0 on my new notch. My new notch is TDC. Obviously my harmonic balancer has turned. I remember reading and I should have done this before I put in the dizzy. On the 22RE does the notch have to be at 5 degrees then stab in the dizzy??? Anyway stabbed it in at 0 and took it for a spin. This is the first time I noticed a difference. Had more power in 4-5 gears this time. I timed it at 5 degrees with the light and the jumper in place. There is definately a change but it still was not 100%. Maybe I need to stab in the dizzy at 5 degrees and try it? At least I made some progress!!

87hoerunner

Good to hear Matt No crank needed to be on straight zero and dizzy installed almost straight up in which it should turn counterclockwise back to the number 1 position on the distributor cap.

Once this is done cross out E1 and TE1 in the diagnostic box and set timing back to five degrees and remove the jumper. Timing should increase to around the 10 to the 12 degree mark . Once it's set test drive and should be set.
Anymore questions I'll be glad to help as much as I can as will the rest of the folks here on the great Yotatech crew.

combatcarl

Glad you figured it out. Like hoerunner said, insert dist at crank 0*, warm up n time with jumper. Just remember to account for the 5* you adjusted your timing mark by. The image in my head says that you're looking for about 10* with jumper in place, then remove, and you'll see timing advance to about 20-22*. Make sense? Does to me, but I'm thinking, so... Yeah.

87hoerunner

Well remember now he made a new mark to go by so he won't have to adjust the five degrees anymore.

Also, did you mark outside of pulley or on inner pulley. If u marked inner part of pulley that original mark was on you may be off time again after you run it. Just a quick thought

mattk

I made a new notch just off to side of the original factory notch. I guess you would call that the inner part? Maybe Im confused.....

combatcarl

You might be right. I was looking at stuff wrong wrong again.
So, OP, if you remarked your pulley to give a 0* mark lined up with degree indicator on timing cover, you should time it normally then. I thought you altered the degree marks on timing cover to line up with pulley mark. Huurrrdurrr. My bad. Guess if I read it right the first time, I'd quit confusing you.

toyospearo

No! Stab the dizzy at 0. You have absolutely got to find TDC and line everything up, put the distributor in, jumper the brain and time it. Your timing is off. No question about it.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I thought the 22r you stabbed at 0deg and the 22re was stabbed at 5deg. I could be wrong probably am but figured I would try and confuse everybody.

toyospearo

Before starting installation of the distributor, make certain the number one piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke.
Align the drilled mark on the driver gear with the center of the number one spark plug terminal on the distributor cap Insert the distributor into the engine with the adjust ing clamp centered over the hold down hole. bla bla..
thats out of the FSM

Go to the JY and get another harmonic balancer

mattk

Drilled mark on the driver gear? I am at TDC then I stabbed in the dizzy. Am I missing something? I may be sounding dumb here but I am so confused!

mattk

Ok still having the same problem with this truck. I cannot get this thing timed at all now. Well according to the timing light its timed but still not power and the dizzy is maxed out on the slot all the way counter clockwise to get it timed. So after working on it some more tonight I found a code being thrown when I had the jumper in the diagnostic conn. I am throwing a code 13. Geeeezz now what? I am about ready to sell this thing as is!!! Anyone have any ideas on this code. Tried a search and come up with all sorts of things.

87hoerunner

code 13 should have to do with rpm signal to the computer does anyone know if this would have an affect on the computer not advancing the timing because it has no rpm signal?

combatcarl

I would say judging by the code sheet on 4crawler, that the issue lies in your distributor area. I forgot once and left the signal wire disconnected, of course, no fire, and I think I got a 13 for my stupidity. Can't remember. But here.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/

mattk

Faulty knock sensor/cpu? Could this affect the truck not being able to be timed?

combatcarl

I think that was on the early 22re. You got a post-88, right? The lower table shows 13 as a distributor issue I think.

Flash319

If you have your TE1-E1 jumped and you set your timing to 0 and then when you pull the jumper the timing will jump to 20 degrees or so at idle. If it does not do this then you may have an ignitor problem. Also if when you jump the TE1-E1 and your timing does not change, your TPS sensor is not set up properly.

Timing the engine is not hard. Crank at 0 degrees, Cam pin at 12 o-clock and the distributor rotor at Number 1 spark plug. If you can't get your spark advanced enough or retarded enough pull the distributor and move it the way you want to go one tooth.

If all is good, run the truck at night and look for arcing. Also make sure the 3 red wires at one of the intake plenum bolts are grounded. They are ECU grounds.

mattk

Yes it is a '93. Sorry didnt go all the way down the page. TPS checks out. Jumper connector and the timing marks moves like it should. I will do some testing on the distributor tomorrow and check some other things out. So frustrating!!!