Here you go, Bjork..... hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else, ok?

 

Bjork... you there? Did it blow up? lol..... jk, just curious if you need anything more/better/etc.

 

Chef you are the man!! Thanks for the video that was exactly what we needed. My dad was giddy watching it because he saw exactly where the issue was and we went outside and switched a few hoses around and sure enough it started right up and ran like a gem.

It was still billowing white smoke because the old oil was tainted with water. We drained that oil and filled it with clean oil and after 10 minutes or so all the excess water in the exhaust/air had burned out.

We drove it around SLC last night up and down hills with lots of compression seating the rings.

The timing is off just slightly and we can't get it down to 5 degrees. The lowest we can get it by twisting the cap is to just lower than the 8 degree mark so we still need to figure that out.

It's also idling high so we've adjusted the idle screw so that it idles lower, but I'm not sure if that's all we need to do on that.

Anyway, it felt great to drive that truck last night again for the first time since July. Let's just hope we pass emissions and safety now. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again everyone for your input and Chef for the video... truly awesome that you took the time to do that! You saved us a lot of worry and confusion.

I'll post some pics soon. I'm taking it to do emissions later today or tomorrow depending on time.

 

Wow, awesome, man! WOOT, WOOT! My pleasure, Bjork... MANY helped me, least I can do. I KNOW what it's like, trust me, lol.

Just a heads up..... some places, Smog Shops, wont pass it if they can't get the timing to "Specs" and then have proper NoX and CO2 readings.... I know CA is really tough, not sure about Utah. If you're not in a hurry, I might try to figure out the timing thing, first. BTW, when you set it to 5* BTDC..... does it ping and stuff, and that's why you're saying, "We can't leave it there"> ???

 

it's not pinging, we've just twisted the cap as far as it can go and it won't get to 5, so we bolted it down where we could. I don't think we installed the rotor or cap wrong, but maybe we did. Any thoughts?

 

Can't install either of those wrong, Bjork, lol. What could, however, be happening, is that, if, in fact, you have the distributor installed a FIN off, you could very well be having trouble adjusting the timing to proper. It should be adjustable even past 0* BTDC, let alone only down to 5* BTDC, ya know? I, personally, would do this.........

1. Get the motor on TDC on the compression stroke(Turn the crank until the mark is on Zero and you see that the Rotor is NEAR #1 Point.) You can pull a plug from #1 and be sure that it's at the top...you'll see the difference from #1 and #2, for instance.

2. With the Cap Pulled, and a Temporary Mark on the Dizzy Body and Head Body, pull the dizzy out.

3. Next, get the Rotor to 12o'clock on the dot, slide the dizzy in, and the rotor should fall back to DEAD ON #1 Cylinder Point.(You can't see with the valve cover on, but there is a Notch on the Dizzy, which should fall just behind{counter clockwise} the CAM's Distributor Drive Gear.>>> There are a few threads on here that SHOW with Pics, the Notch on the Dizzy Shaft{Top of the Dizzy Gear} and where it's supposed to rest right behind the CAM's Dizzy Drive Gear.)

Then, fire it up and test your timing to see if you can get it to retard further. This is kinda important, Bjork, because, well, if the Dizzy is off a fin on the gear, then your true timing is probably like 10* BTDC right now, not what you're looking at. Make sense?(Is that right, guys? Just wanna be sure.....regarding the timing not being true to what you're reading if the dizzy is off a notch.>>>???)

That's an easy test/change to make, and you can always put back to the mark you had it on if it ends up being something more mechanically related, like timing chain off a tooth, etc.(which I REALLY doubt, especially if it's running so well and not misfiring, backfiring or pinging).

Let me know how that works, Bjork,

Mark

PS> Tell your Pop's I said "Old Man Strength and Persistence for the Win!" hahhaha.....that's not a dig, I'm officially old man level in relation to most of the guys on this site as well, hahaha.

 

sounds good we'll give that a go and let you know what happens. Thanks!

 

My pleasure, Bjork ............Go get em! lol.

 

Just wanted to give y'all an update. I've been driving my 4Runner for a couple of weeks and the fluids are still topped off! No oil leaking, no coolant leaking! It runs very smooth and is much quieter with the new engine, however it is still a 4-cylinder weakling that gets passed by everyone going up hills. However, I don't own her for the speed!

I took her to pass safety/emissions here in SLC a couple of weeks ago and it didn't pass because of a leak in the exhaust, so after dropping another $245 on a muffler and exhaust I am now legally driving again with the '11 sticker on the plate.

It feels really good to be back on the road after 6 months w/o her. Thanks again everyone. This forum saved us a ton of time and we couldn't have done it all without your help. You're all truly good friends and good people.

Merry Christmas!

 

that bolts to your bellhousing and hold the exhaust pipe steady

 

WOOOOOOOT! LOL. Was fun walking through that with ya...., and hope you have a great Christmas and New Year as well, Bjork!

Mark