I agree with Spearo....

It's totally up to you, and I have NO CLUE what your cabbage crop is lookin like, if you know what I mean? lol.... But, with 2 girls, I had to watch it. Since my motor was so messed up, however, and was on the way out within probably 20K or so,....I figured, "WTH!", and I dropped in a rebuild. WELL, if you've read my troubleshooting or oil leak thread at all..... you'll see that THINGS CAN go wrong.....even if a 'PROFESSIONAL' does the work. However, if you're VERY thorough in your investigation, and go with advice from people like SPEARO, who does this all day long... you'll find a VERY reputable shop, if you decide to go that route and start fresh.... NOT LIKE I ENDED UP! lol....

BTW, what is your compression? How filthy is your intake? How long since a fuel filter? And just remember, you've got the pan out, head off, ....you're half way there, if you decide to have the block and head done, then install it yourself, ya know? Just be SURE that if you wanna go with a bigger cam, etc., you DO IT NOW, lol.

I'm excited for ya, Bjork! Have fun, either way you go!

Mark

 

All right, so we are thinking about ordering a new engine and just wondering if anyone can point me to a step by step write up of someone that dropped a new engine in. We've done a pretty thorough job of marking things during the dismantle, but would love something to go off of with the install just in case.

Thanks!

 

if you have a 5sp trans now's the time to replace the clutch. as well as the front seal and stuff on the trans.

 

Go to my build thread(in my sig in red)...NOT because I'm some guru or anything... rather, because MANY Guru's helped me along to where I'm at now! lol.

Xxxtreme being one of them! Thanks bud!

Honest, my build thread might be exactly what you're looking for in regards to 'dropping in a heart', ya know? Got TONS of great help and I posted TONS of pics.

Just a thought,

Best wishes,

Mark

 

Cool, I'll check it out Chef. Xxxtreme, we're planning on replacing the clutch for sure while the engine is out... thanks.

 

Why and what bolts?
i didnt do this when i did mine.

 

the bolt that goes directly below the timing mark ear on the timing cover. If you don't its prone to leak a little oil

 

Hey Peow,

Yeah, like he said^^^, ...sorry for not clarifying sooner. I thought I'd mentioned that I just went through this on my troubleshooting thread in my sig. It's not that big a deal.... 2 hours, max, granting you can get that Crank bolt out as easy as I did. If you go to that thread, I'm pretty sure I explain everything that has to come off to do it. Easy job, honest, just a lil times taking, ya know?

 

OK, I'm finally back at it. I haven't had much time to dig in because of work/family/life ya know
So I looked through your 22reeek Build there Chef and we will be pulling our engine tonight. I love your pics... they're great! I'll make sure to take some of our mess. We will be buying a new engine after all... as well as a water pump and clutch (need to measure I guess to find out if the clutch disk is 8 1/8" or 9 1/8"). We are getting it from www.japanengine.com and we have done some homework and noticed that they have some amazing feedback... very positive. Plus they don't require you return the core and their shipping is free as long as it's to a dock or a forklift. Here's the link of the engine we'll be getting.

http://www.japanengine.com/products/...&search=&page=

I figure that I want to drive this sucker forever so why not start at 0 miles. We definitely don't have a lot of $$ but figure that this will save us money in the long run and it's a ton cheaper than buying a beater-truck out there for the same price with 200+ miles on it.

Anyway, any thoughts or tips before we go through with it? Thanks guys!

 

Yup....2 things....

whatever your budget for the build is, double it
don't rush it

 

Ahhh. Ok, well, since I'm assuming this motor was possibly tired and needing a full rebuild(??)... NOTHING wrong with going the route you are. I'm not sure about japanengine.com, Bjork.. I have nothing to say, either good or bad. Good for you on doing some research though. Might wanna try google and see what you can dig up... but remember, you will ALWAYS find plenty of hateful commentary, even though many times, it's due to IDIOTIC installer error, etc, many times. In my case, it's just a freak thing, and all the research I'd done before I did this...well, it was VERY positive. Go figure, once it's in there, other than the block and basics of the head, many top guys were like "OHHHHH, HIM???? EEEK!" hahaha. Guess it just works that way. But, long and short of it: IT WAS WORTH IT IN THE END! I've learned SO MUCH, most of which I would not have had I not taken this on myself. HAVE FUN!

Far as the clutch, many of the purveyors on this site sell great kits, such as Wabfab, Marlin Crawler, and then there are OEM distributors that are VERY reasonable. If you're just going with a stock motor, I think you'd be happiest with an OEM Clutch, as they can last, as mine did, for up to 160K miles! lol. MINE STILL had life in it, too! Anyway, that's up to you, and there ARE some to stay away from.

Far as tips? Well, like I said, 'read up' on objective feedback data, if you can. That's a HUGE company, from what I remember. If you're interested in getting a lil more out of the lil sucker, you might wanna order simply a block, minus only the head....then, order a Head from Engnbldr.com or someone like that(best prices and service I've dealt with, personally).. and that way you can have a BRAND new fresh casting head with Over Sized valves, the CAM that's right for you, etc. I wish I'd gone that way, because it gets expensive and times taking to start over once you get a long block. Lesson learned, eh? lol.

Before I say any more... could you remind me 'JUST EXACTLY' what it is that you want/expect to get out of your rig.... 2. Do you mind going in for some major work later one to replace components like CAM, etc., if you end up wanting more power, capabilities on the hills, etc..... 3. Will you be doing a header, cold air intake, other mods? The reason I ask is because they are largely pointless, to a certain extent, without one or the other to compliment each other... ANDDDDDDD, if you choose to go the 'add your own head and cam' route, you'll probably want to get the most out of it, ...so you'll have to factor all that in beforehand, regarding cost, ease of add ons, when you'll want to add them on, etc.

If you're just going to stick with stock... then sure, just get the long block and be done with it. Be sure to get an OEM Water pump and then think about the clutch comment I made. Clean up and maybe use some Dielectric on all the connectors while you're in there and they're off... Have the injectors serviced.... including CSI.... Have your Throttle body-intake and plenum all cleaned SPOTLESS, and do the same to the EGR while it's off.... etc., etc., etc. lol.

 

Also, order a brand new OEM PCV valve... if yours is old. It's very cheap... and MUCH better than the luck I've had with the Parts store ones. Important lil sucker, especially in a brand new motor. I would also clean out or replace your IACV if it's bad, while you have it out. Do you remember if it idled up when cold? If not, that's the culprit. While you have it out, CLEAN EVERYTHING in there! Why not? You'll likely be waiting for a day or two, and that's a good time to clean and paint if needed.(paint parts and brackets, not the engine bay necessarily. Also have your motor mounts checked out, k? Best time to do them is RIGHT NOW, when it's out, eh? lol. Might not need em, but find out, yeah?

VERY IMPORTANT... if you have lots of electrolysis on your wrap around pipes, etc.(coolant lines that run all over the place, around 1/2" in diameter)....DO NOT clean them to shiny! THEY CAN VERY LIKELY leak if you do. Just clean up the mating surfaces a lil and slap on the gaskets(if called for) and use some Water Pump Sealant on both sides of gasket. DO NOT use sealant on the pipe that goes into the bottom side of the intake in the middle. It takes an o-ring... GET A NEW ONE! Especially if you're going to clean up your intake like new. TRUST ME, it's 4$ and worth every penny. ASK ME HOW I KNOW? Also ask me how I know not to over clean/scrub those pipes down to shiny! lol. You'll have to tear down the whole intake again to fix that... trust me, I KNOW,lol. (Actually, you can do it without removing the intake... but it AINT EASY! So why bother, eh? lol).

Start fresh with the fuel filter, OEM if you can afford it(not that much). Like I said, fresh motors like plenty of unrestricted fuel and fuel pressure... so don't start with questionable stuff's on there, ya know? RC Injectors is who I used... they do FULL service and I mean FULL. However, there are very good ones on here, like Witchhunter.com, that are VERY reasonable and respected. I know I mentioned this, but it's important. And have the CSI done, don't forget.

I'll post more as it comes to me. Best wishes,

Mark

 

Thanks Chef... great tips. I can't wait to clean it all out because it looks like a total mess right now! My engine is the 22R and not the 22RE by the way.
I've attached a pic of us yanking the engine last night... we removed the intake after it was out. That's my dad in the picture.
As for what we want to get out of this engine I just need stock. I'm not looking for great performance, just something that will get me from A to B and not have to worry if it's the less beaten path, haha.
I wish I had a video of us with the fuel filter because that thing was so clogged. I was blowing as hard as I could through that guy and only had drips of fuel coming out... crazy!
My biggest headache right now is all of the electrical. I feel like rewiring a lot of it because of how hard and worn many of the electrical lines are. They have cracks in them and the connectors are beat up.
I like the idea of painting different parts like you did. It looks nice and makes it easy to differentiate. Anyway, I'll keep you posted.

 

in that pic that motor is a 22re. Reason: it's fuel injected 22r's are carburated.

 

YEP, what mouse said^, lol....

It's cool, Bjork,... obviously you're learning... we're with ya...

There are MANY good tips on here for cleaning out the intake and plenum.... Just be careful with the Throttle Body(REMOVE THE TPS WHEN CLEANING THAT, IF YOU'RE GOING TO GIVE IT A REALLY GOOD BATH!) K? It's pretty much necessary to soak it down in areas to get ALL the gunk out of it... and the TPS can react very adversely to getting liquids or solvent-fluids in it.... in fact, it can ruin it.

Be sure that you MARK EVERYTHING! It looks like you did, and yet, if not, I would recommend, while it's fresh in your mind, 'tape marker' everything as to where it goes.

Far as the wiring; Well, sure, they can become brittle and old. Just remember,....... SOLDER, PERIOD! NO butt connectors or otherwise, k? "Solder/Heat Shrink/tape ends of heat shrink if desired." The wiring stuff is totally up to you. Just be careful if you open up the harness portion that is thicker, to not compromise any of the Injector Y-connections. If it seemed to run pretty smooth, and you're needing the truck back asap, ....then I'd simply rewire the ones that looked compromised and dry-rotted/cracked. Also remember, even if you rewire it... you'll still have the same wiring right up near the connector.... so solder well and clean when installing new wire in there.

Keep us informed, and ASK QUESTIONS, ......BEFORE you jump into things you're not sure of, k?

Mark

PS> I would recommend starting a new thread in the Build thread section.... You'll get WAY more help, at this point in your project, because of the name. Other option? Ask the Administrators to 'Rename' your thread. They did it for me!

 

Don't forget to clean all the carbon out of the egr plumbing including the plate in the back

 

How's it coming, Bjork?

 

Hey guys, sorry it's been a while on an update. So we ended up getting a new engine and we've cleaned up everthing attaching to the new block and we now need to know the proper ignition timing setting on this new 22R/22RE.

In looking at the manual it said that the proper timing setting would be on the underside of the hood, however we have a new hood because the old hood was wrecked a while back.

I'm thinking 0 and my dad is thinking 8... help!

By the way, Chef I've been referencing your pictures throughout this process... thank you so much for all your documentation, it's made our life much easier.

Mightymouse: you say it's a 22RE because it's fuel injected, but etched on my fuel-injected block is "22R" and the new engine we bought (exact same as old) was listed as a "22R/22RE"... any other reasons that it could be named either one? We have no idea.

Here's the link to the engine we bought: http://www.japanengine.com/products/...&search=&page=

Thanks!

 

if you kept it fuel injected then it's 5 BTDC @ regular idle speed with the check connector jumpered.

if you converted or it was already a carb'd 22r then it's 0 BTDC @ no more than 950 RPM with vac hoses disconnected and plugged

page 351 of the FSM.

 

Thanks XXX!