Woohoo you got it!!!
the pickup tube doesn't need to be removed...
I'd check the screen to make sure it's clear and move on with your timing chain and guides project.

 

Thanks. It's also amazing how a coat of tremclad on the outside that oil pan makes it look new.

 

Why the heck won't my new cam sprocket go on. It is all lined up and the little nub has gone into the slot on back of sprocket but the sprocket will not push onto the shaft. How hard should this be? Surely I shouldn't have to whack on this thing.

 

i assume you test-fit it prior to attempting to get it on with the chain around it? i always check the fit prior to installation, unless i'm installing the one i removed.

 

Yes worked on the prefit. The webcrawler instructions say something about twisting it clockwise to get it on. Maybe I'm not understanding. There must be some sort of trick to this. Maybe if I stand on my head.

 

Wacking stuff means different things to different people.

A little gentle suggestion with a small brass or aluminum hammer might be in order.

These sprockets are meant to fit somewhat tight.

 

Don't worry, I wouldn't actually hit it with anything to force it on (was kinda kidding). But it seems as per the instructions on webcrawler that you are supposed to maybe place a punch in the hole at the top of the cam and twist the cam slightly clockwise to get it on. I'm not totally sure what they are getting at there. Once i get the little nub into the notch i have tried putting some pressure one way and the other to try and get it on but no luck. Driving me nuts. I'm not dumb (honest) but this is painful - would really like to get this new chain on so I don't have to worry about it anymore.

 

To me that was the hardest part of this project. Getting that hole the line up and tensioning the chain. What I did was compress the tensioner and held it with zip ties which helped.

 

If it's a tight fit, that's a good thing. It's been going on close to four years now since I did the chain on mine. Pretty sure I used a piece of 2x4, and a hammer to gently tap it on there. Also used some Permatex Ultra Slick assembly lube too.

 

counterclockwise, to create a bit of slack in the chain via the tensioner to allow the sprocket to fit on the cam hub. put your fingers in the sprocket holes, and while rotating ccw, lift upwards, hard.

 

Good call wallytoo. Yes, it's counter clockwise, and I did it the way you described. Still had to tap mine on gently.

I installed Cloyes 94148SHD Heavy Duty Timing Set, and the cam gear did not have all the holes for a good grip. I do remember saying to myself that I should have bought one with holes.

 

Yes, that is what I was wondering - it makes sense. The instruction on the webcrawler document says clockwise but it seems to me that a counter clockwise rotation helps with the overall alignment of the sprocket to the cam. but to confirm, going counterclockwise doesn't create slack on the drivers side of the chain, it pulls it even tighter. I will try your approach today - fingers in sprocket holes, rotate counter clockwise and lift until my fingers break. Thanks!

Oh, one other thing - as per the webcrawler instructions I do not yet have the guides or tensioner installed. I trust this i correct? Actually, I saw another video (by LTE Engineering or something) on installing this sprocket. they already had the tensioner installed and to get the cam on they stuck a bar through the center cam hole and applied upward force on the sprocket while slightly rotating the crank back/forth claiming that the sprocket "walks" right up onto the shaft.

 

i’m confused. if neither the guides nor tensioner are installed, why are you putting the chain and cam sprocket on? those get put on prior to the chain. then work the chain into place, etc. also, if you are unable to put the chain and cam sprocket in place without those installed, you might have a problem, because there should be PLENTY of slack chain available.

a picture of what you are doing might help.

 

The renowned 4crawler instructions clearly say to put the chain on and then install guides and tensioner. This is the instruction I have been following (see below). Is it a problem to put the chain on first as 4crawler suggests? The main tension that you are fighting when trying to get this sprocket on is from the drivers side chain which is relatively tight regardless of whether the tensioner is on (wouldn't you think).


#28 - very carefully remove cam gear and chain
#29 - remove the crank gear
#30 - install your new crank gear
#31 - install the new cam gear and chain
#32 - bolt the cam gear and distributor gear down
#33 - install the new passenger side guide
#34 - install the new drivers side guide
#35 - install the new tensioner

 

i've referenced the site many times, but not for putting on the timing chain. the FSM describes the chain installation via the assumption (from how it is written) that the guides and tensioner are installed prior to putting the chain/sprocket on. and it clearly describes rotating CCW "if the chain isn't long enough". but, what do i know? i've only done it 3 times in the last 2 years.

 

Ok I just managed to get it on. I got it so close and then I put the bolt in the end. The bold went in slowly and easily with no tension. I think it served to straighten things up a bit ànd easily pulled the sprocket into position. Now that I have it on I hope you aren't going to tell me to take if off and do guides and tensioner first - please no!

 

Sorry, I do have another question. I purchased the osk made in japan timing chain kit. It came with the tc guides (also made in japan) however the are both plastic. I did order and also received a cloyes brand driver side guide that has the metal on it. So what's better, the made in japan original style or the made in china (I'm sure) metal one for the drivers side?

 

As you have done it 3 times in last 2 years, I call you an expert. I very much appreciate your guidance!

 

i used the osk kit each time, with the plastic guides. i am not a fan of the metal-backed guides. the plastic guides are capbable of giving 150k miles of service, as long as routine maintenance is performed.

 

not an expert, but a competent wrench. and i screwed up the second installation by only finger-tightening the guides, which allowed them to get loose over the course of about a week and 800 miles. one of the bolts finally worked its way out and dropped down between the crank sprocket and the chain, instantly snapping the chain. i got lucky that it happened at idle, rather than at highway rpms, as the engine stopped instantly without any piston to valve smacking. but i still installed the guides and tensioner first, then the chain and cam sprocket.

on all three installations, once i got everything fully reinstalled, the engine started instantly on the first try.