I wonder if there are any 'alternate' ways to time my truck? I have the manual and I've looked at this page - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#TimingCheckConnector - unfortunately, for some reason I can't short my test connector - it doesn't short when I use the appropriate tool (aka paperclip...).

Is there any other way to short this connector? Perhaps is there another test connector located somewhere else in the truck??

I need to set my timing so I can pass smog...what fun...

Thanks!!

 

If it doesn't work that means your TPS is out of adjustment or not working.

 

TPS? What's that?

It's weird - apparently I can get the check engine light to work appropriately by shorting the connector, but can't get the RPM to decrease...

 

Gennro is right,

If you're CEL is displaying, then the TPS(Light Bulb Shaped Sensor on the side of the Throttle Body) is not set properly/toast/....not hooked up? >>>>

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

PS> There are many cases where guys soaked their throttle bodies in cleaners, ........w/OUT removing the TPS first... This, as well, can cause MAJOR drama, .....such as 'TPS NO WORKY NO MO'! lol.

 

OOPS< neglected to ask........... 22RE? OR 22R?

 

SMOG? oh no, you did NOT say that word to me!!!! HEHEHE. ... JK, just went through my own drama with smog, last couple weeks!

 

Yup...smog...welcome to Sacramento...turns out I'm getting a code 11 from my diagnostic...as in...TPS is probably toast...dammit!!!! BTW - a 22RE...

Nuts.

 

Stupid question, but I'm ignorant like that...

Where's the throttle body, when I'm looking at the engine from the front of the truck?

 

Never mind - found it. Sonubabiscuit that is not going to be easy to get that bottom screw out...gotta wait till tomorrow morning when it's cool out and the engine is cold...damn...ah well...

Thanks!!

 

Is the TPS plugged in?

Yes, adjusting it is difficult with the Throttle Body still attached. To adjust it, you need to read through that link I posted in depth, then read it again. I've been doing this a while on other motors(now this one, unfortunately at times, lol), and I missed a couple things like "setting the throttle plate stop screw before ANY adjusting", etc. Also, I found it much easier to set the TPS on a bench after removing it from the plenum/upper intake. 4 Bolts, couple hose clamps and some plugs/screws/bolts to plug up the coolant lines to prevent LOTS of coolant leakage... And voila, you can take that throttle body to the bench and check it with your feeler gauges, as described in the 4crawler/cheaptricks/tps page I posted. It's not that difficult, but it's VERY touchy(easy to get frustrated trying to get the settings just right, then screw down the screws as instructed--top one, then finish adjusting--bottom one and you're set", etc.). You can, however, CHECK the settings right on the car. You don't have to get to that screw until you confirm that IT NEEDS adjusting, k? If you don't have a CEL, and only have a Code when checking for them, then it might just be stored. If you DO have a CELight on all the time while running... Yes, then most likely you have an issue with the TPS.... COULD need replacing, but might just need adjusting, ok? (make sure, it's not super cheap/70-150$ depending on where you get it, online or dealership).

Best wishes...

PS> "too hot?" You mean the coolant is too hot to mess with disconnecting the lines, etc.?

 

PS> On that page I posted.... ALLEN KIT FROM 4CRAWLER for easy access later on, .... GOOD BUY! lol. If you need to order one, if yours is bad, .... order that kit from 4crawler too(the allen screws). And BE CAREFUL when breaking loose those screws...THEY CAN strip out on the head, ok?

 

Nah, too hot meaning the engine is too hot to work on right now b/c I was driving the truck around and kept trying to adjust the timing. I figure in the morning the engine will be cold and I won't have to worry about burning myself on any parts of the truck (over 90 degrees out - no garage - hot metal...).

The biggest PITA is that I don't really have a bench to work on this on - small apartment and dogs who get into everything I leave out.

I tried pulling the EFI fuse for ~ 20 seconds - the code still came back, so I figure it's not just stored, even though the CEL isn't on while driving?

Also, I need to claim ignorance again - in reading the link, it's not clear that any of the tests can be performed while the TPS is still installed in the car? I wonder if spraying the connector with Deoxy-it would help?

And BTW - thanks for your help with this!!

 

Yes, it can easily be tested on the rig. You remove the connector from the TPS, insert the specified feeler gauges(or as close as you can get) where instructed on 4crawler page, then read it. YOU HAVE TO have a Multi-meter though.

Bench, kitchen counter...doesn't matter. What I mean by 'bench it' is 'OFF the car'.... You can see why it would be much easier, ya know?

Far as REMOVING IT, don't forget... you would be best off replacing the Throttle body gasket if you have to remove the throttle body(to adjust TPS or replace it, etc.).

'TEST TPS ON CAR= CAKE' ......... 'ADJUST TPS ON CAR=ROYAL PITA if you don't have those allen screws and a lot of patience! lol.

 

Funny...dogs get on the kitchen table too... :-)

And thanks - I'm going to pull out my multimeter tomorrow and test it. Chances are it's shot, though...ah well...time to put in an order w/ Autozone and hope for that I won't need it...

 

Hey Monkey, lol....

I would REALLY recommend only using an OEM TPS(Dealership or Authorized Seller of OEM parts for Toyota, like www.toyotapartszone.com, www.dealerdirectparts.com, WWW.OMGOSHHOWMUCH?.COM(jk, hehehe), of the like. Things that are best from dealership/online OEM;

1. EVERYTHING
2. All the other things you forgot in the 'everything' realm
3. BUT REALLY, .... most importantly;

a. TPS, Coolant Temp Sensor, Fuel Pump, Cold Start Injector Time Switch, Circuit Open Relay, Knock Sensor, Oil Pressure Sending Unit, O2 Sensor

b. Thermostat, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Oil Filter(4.88$, ..is it worth it?), EGR, Alternator, Water Pump, Oil Pump, Aisin Master cyl.'s/clutch and brake, Aisin Clutch Slave cyl.'s, Timing Chain Tensioner and chain, CAP and ROTOR and PLUGS and WIRES!!!!.... even brake pads, ......AND MORE.

Think about it this way.... Many of the Sensors/Parts?;They lasted 25 years, in most cases, and will last another 10-15 in many cases(300K miles), ...... but Bosch/Many other aftermarket parts? ASKING for problems in many cases. But I GET IT, when 'cost' is the factor.

http://www.dealerdirectparts.com/198...nner-dlx-2.htm

Consider it, after comparing prices, all I'm saying, k? Maybe ask some others what they think as to buying aftermarket sensors for your Yota?

 

Here's your answer...........

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search

Is it worth 25$? Ask others here, I totally understand... I wouldn't go Duralast, personally. Battery? Sure! TPS>? Nope, lol.

 

That code 11 could also be a short in the neutral start switch or its turned on while trying to diagnose. check it.