Ticking Noise or Rod Knocking Noise
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ticking Noise or Rod Knocking Noise
I have a ticking/knocking noise at around 1500-2500rpm. I have a video of the sound
You can here it best starting at 6secs. If its not going to cause any problems I am just going to drive with it and not worry, but if it is I am going to want to fix it. Thanks in advance.
You can here it best starting at 6secs. If its not going to cause any problems I am just going to drive with it and not worry, but if it is I am going to want to fix it. Thanks in advance.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I though that too. But my oil pressure is perfect and I just changed the oil and there is no metal shavings. And I drove it again tonight, and under load you cannot hear it, and it seems to only occur when the engine is at operating temperature.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im going to post what I know, just in case someone has similar problem
- Knocking only occurs on operating temperature
- Also only occurs in Park and Neutral, in gear you cannot hear it
- Happens only between 1,700 and about 2,500 RPM
- Mileage 12mpg, dunno if it is relevant but might as well put it down
- Knocking only occurs on operating temperature
- Also only occurs in Park and Neutral, in gear you cannot hear it
- Happens only between 1,700 and about 2,500 RPM
- Mileage 12mpg, dunno if it is relevant but might as well put it down
Trending Topics
#8
Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
14 Posts
PULL ECU CODES!
How old is the O2 sensor? A failing O2 can cause crappy fuel economy. Also check for vacuum leaks or a crack in the intake tube.
Don't know what to tell you about the noise...video won't play on my phone~
How old is the O2 sensor? A failing O2 can cause crappy fuel economy. Also check for vacuum leaks or a crack in the intake tube.
Don't know what to tell you about the noise...video won't play on my phone~
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I pulled the ECU codes and its giving me nothing. Vacuum lines are all good, I have no idea when the 02 sensors were replaced.
I will find the knock sometime, it just a hard thing to track down.
I will find the knock sometime, it just a hard thing to track down.
#10
Registered User
normally a rod knock is oppsite, first does it when its cold then goes away or eases some when up to operateing tempture, remeber metal expands when warm and shrinks when cold, so the rod would knock when cold but as warms up and expands would ease, it coul be a valve going bad but thats some major valve tickage, is it leaking any oil? pull a compression check and see if your not blowing a head gasket out the side, also, could it be an exhuast leak? try seafoaming the motor, it could possible show you any exhaust leakage and could also clean your valves enough to kill the sound.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just seafoamed the motor I am going to do it again a second time. Also I did not see any exhaust leaks from under the hood. I also pulled compression on the drivers side only, ran out of time to do passenger side will have to wait till tomorrow. Heres the numbers for the driver side though.
2: 119
4: 122
6: 120
2: 119
4: 122
6: 120
#13
Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
14 Posts
I just seafoamed the motor I am going to do it again a second time. Also I did not see any exhaust leaks from under the hood. I also pulled compression on the drivers side only, ran out of time to do passenger side will have to wait till tomorrow. Heres the numbers for the driver side though.
2: 119
4: 122
6: 120
2: 119
4: 122
6: 120
But, at least they're uniform!
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well the engine was warm, and only the driver side plugs were out, not passenger. Whoops did not have throttle opened guess I missed that part. I am going to do it again tomorrow when I have better light and garage space.
#15
Contributing Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
14 Posts
Just heard the video....I'm going to guess not a valve issue because as they wear on the 3VZE, they actually TIGHTEN down the gap.
Doesn't sound good. Of you're lucky, it's just a timing belt idler pulley...but not likely.
Unless you get one cylinder reading different, I think you'r looking at bottom end trouble...rod most likely.
Doesn't sound good. Of you're lucky, it's just a timing belt idler pulley...but not likely.
Unless you get one cylinder reading different, I think you'r looking at bottom end trouble...rod most likely.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok Got the compression test complete,
5:144
3:135
1:136
6:140
4:141
2:135
I did these numbers with engine warm, all plugs out, throttle wide open, distributor unplugged and vafm unplugged as well.
5:144
3:135
1:136
6:140
4:141
2:135
I did these numbers with engine warm, all plugs out, throttle wide open, distributor unplugged and vafm unplugged as well.
#18
you can check the rod caps for excessive play with the oil pan off. Taking the pan off requires allot of work though.
Here's an easier method!
-Find a screw driver. Longer is better for ease and comfort.
-Stick one end on valve cover and the handle end in your ear. Have someone rev the engine to duplicate the sound.
-Do this to both valve covers and the oil pan.
You should be able to pinpoint where the sound is coming from by using the screw driver as stethoscope. If it's louder or more clear at the oil pan I'd say rod knock
Here's an easier method!
-Find a screw driver. Longer is better for ease and comfort.
-Stick one end on valve cover and the handle end in your ear. Have someone rev the engine to duplicate the sound.
-Do this to both valve covers and the oil pan.
You should be able to pinpoint where the sound is coming from by using the screw driver as stethoscope. If it's louder or more clear at the oil pan I'd say rod knock
Last edited by Toy3sgte; 09-18-2012 at 02:54 PM.
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you can check the rod caps for excessive play with the oil pan off. Taking the pan off requires allot of work though.
Here's an easier method!
-Find a screw driver. Longer is better for ease and comfort.
-Stick one end on valve cover and the handle end in your ear. Have someone rev the engine to duplicate the sound.
-Do this to both valve covers and the oil pan.
You should be able to pinpoint where the sound is coming from by using the screw driver as stethoscope. If it's louder or more clear at the oil pan I'd say rod knock
Here's an easier method!
-Find a screw driver. Longer is better for ease and comfort.
-Stick one end on valve cover and the handle end in your ear. Have someone rev the engine to duplicate the sound.
-Do this to both valve covers and the oil pan.
You should be able to pinpoint where the sound is coming from by using the screw driver as stethoscope. If it's louder or more clear at the oil pan I'd say rod knock
#20
Registered User
My 5vzfe was making a similar noise explored and i ended up putting a hose clamp around the metal shroud that goes between the header and firewall. Hope that helps someone