I ran out of oil due to a persistent oil leak and messed my bearings up enough to hear the difference. I decided to replace my bearings and it seems that I got to it just in time to save the crank, and no spun bearings.
My question is this: Why is it that my rearward thrust washers are so messed up? I mean i get running out of oil is bad but I expected the most damage to occur on the rod bearings... Is this sort of wear abnormal? The crank guide is smooth at thrust washer. Now I gotta pull the crank out to get to upper thrust washers, Im gonna go ahead and replace clutch disc/plate/throwout/pilot but I am curious what your thoughts are about why that rear thrust washer received so much abuse? My clutch isnt really slipping but the disc is really thin at this point, I dont really think I ride the clutch but it disengages without much pedal depression. BTW I installed the bearing/washers myself a few years back.
The washer on top is a lower thrust washer from the other side of the bearing cap (front)

 

Hi!
When you replaced the bearings a couple of years ago, did you check the crank end play?
If not on spec. when you replaced them, they will start to wear abnormally the first few times you drive around the block.
The clutch pressure plate is trying to push the crank out of the front of the motor with each depression of the pedal.
That little washer has a helluva job to do to resist that force, especially if the oil film becomes marginal.
Art

 

No I didnt check thrust clearance or crank play at all because i was a beginner and it was all new crank and bearings/washers and didnt think it mattered. I saw some procedure about aligning the crank during installation that involved tapping the main bearing cap beck and prying the crank forward, but not sure if its proper for the 3vze. I suppose i can get a feeler guage in there this time.

 

Hi:
I'm not a pro engine builder, just a shade tree mechanic.
Go to Harbor Freight, and purchase a dial indicator with a magnetic base $15 to 25.
If you have the engine out and on a stand, and after you have installed the new thrust washers, and main bearings, (caps properly torqued), give the crank a couple of hefty smacks back and forth with a lead, or dead blow hammer.
Don't have the rods in the motor, and don't use a steel hammer on the crankshaft.
If you have the willys about smacking your crankshaft, use a block of wood for interference, but don't be shy about smack force.
I'm serious.
Now after the smacking is done, pry the crank back toward the back of the block with a screwdriver.
Using the dial indicator to measure, pry the crank forward until it stops (no major force here).
Read your end play number off of the indicator.
You may have too much, or too little clearance, but proper steps can now be taken.
Feeler gauges, in my estimation, are not accurate enough for this purpose.
Engine type is of no concern here, this procedure although it sounds crude, has been used by gearheads since the invention of the wheel.
Good Luck
Art