Thrust Washer / Shim Kit?
#21
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iTrader: (1)
sorry swampy... ive been readung zuks website over and over for the past week in preperation to pull my third... i saw the word shims and thought i was being helpful...
oh well...
have you tried to call other places like, TRD parts for you? or whatever that website it?
they may have them in stock and be able to dropship to you...
oh well...
have you tried to call other places like, TRD parts for you? or whatever that website it?
they may have them in stock and be able to dropship to you...
#22
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Ok well I have had a couple developments. I've tried a couple places like randy's ring and pinion, west coast differentials, ect., but no one had them. I got a hold of ZUK and he told me to try 1st Toyota Parts @ 1 (888) 271-3948, and to their credit they would have been able to get them to me in about 10 business days, but I wanted to get it done a little sooner than that (its been raining and the mud's calling my name).
So I called Aussie to figure out wtf I could do. So I talked to the bossman, then a tech named Tim up there. He told me that you can actually run a tighter spacer to centerpin gap, such as my .002", and that typically they set theirs tighter too because it increases the longevity of the locker (which I didn't think to have him elaborate on that point unfortunately), so long as the overall gap is not tighter than .130". So I said awesome, and went about throwing my 3rd back together again. And lo and behold, it is EXACTLY .130" for the over gap.
Soooo, now that I'm almost done putting the whole thing together, I'm trying to set my adjuster nuts right, and I'm kind of peeved about the backlash. Seems pretty sloppy, and I think I'm all the way adjusted in. But I did tighten right back to where my marks were (though I may have accidentally used them on the wrong side...) How do I measure BL without a dial indicator? Guess I should really go get some gear marking compound... But anyways, I can move the ring about 1-2mm (estimated) before it'll move the pinion, so I think that's definitely not right.
So I called Aussie to figure out wtf I could do. So I talked to the bossman, then a tech named Tim up there. He told me that you can actually run a tighter spacer to centerpin gap, such as my .002", and that typically they set theirs tighter too because it increases the longevity of the locker (which I didn't think to have him elaborate on that point unfortunately), so long as the overall gap is not tighter than .130". So I said awesome, and went about throwing my 3rd back together again. And lo and behold, it is EXACTLY .130" for the over gap.
Soooo, now that I'm almost done putting the whole thing together, I'm trying to set my adjuster nuts right, and I'm kind of peeved about the backlash. Seems pretty sloppy, and I think I'm all the way adjusted in. But I did tighten right back to where my marks were (though I may have accidentally used them on the wrong side...) How do I measure BL without a dial indicator? Guess I should really go get some gear marking compound... But anyways, I can move the ring about 1-2mm (estimated) before it'll move the pinion, so I think that's definitely not right.
#25
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So anyways, how much backlash am I supposed to have? And is using a dial indicator the only way to measure it?
I can't wait to get back into town this weekend so I can hopefully finish up this damn project lol...
I can't wait to get back into town this weekend so I can hopefully finish up this damn project lol...
#26
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Wikidefintion
Canadia may refer to:
- a common misspelling of Canada, partially due to the country's demonym, "Canadian", and now popular as faux slang.
- a common misspelling of Canada, partially due to the country's demonym, "Canadian", and now popular as faux slang.
#28
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If you didn't measure it, start with 0.008" and go up and down from there, depending on what your contact pattern looks like.
Yes, you need a dial indicator. But a cheap one will work fine, until it gets dropped. Get one with a magnetic base.
Cheers.
#29
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what 86tuning said, .008" ... its in the fsm =p and all over zuks site
but dial indicators are friggen cheap, so you should just get one K? =P
they're also good for measuring runout on things like brake drums, rotors and axle shafts. I've used mine for all of the above.
but dial indicators are friggen cheap, so you should just get one K? =P
they're also good for measuring runout on things like brake drums, rotors and axle shafts. I've used mine for all of the above.
#30
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Hmm for some reason I had .010-012" stuck in my head. Guess you can't go wrong with .008" if that's what the FSM says...
Yeah, I forgot to measure when I was disassembling it, mainly because I didn't have a dial indicator, and wanted to hurry up and get it done (yeah, its taken almost two months lmao).
I'm aware of the fact that I should have the same backlash as before, but I don't remember being able to turn the flange and have the pinion clunk on the ring after a mm or two. I put marks on my adjuster nuts, and supposedly tightened they to the same spot, but maybe I just have one side cranked an extra full turn or two...
Yeah, I forgot to measure when I was disassembling it, mainly because I didn't have a dial indicator, and wanted to hurry up and get it done (yeah, its taken almost two months lmao).
I'm aware of the fact that I should have the same backlash as before, but I don't remember being able to turn the flange and have the pinion clunk on the ring after a mm or two. I put marks on my adjuster nuts, and supposedly tightened they to the same spot, but maybe I just have one side cranked an extra full turn or two...
#32
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SwampThing I feel for ya man haha. I've been wanting to get my Aussie in since December or so. I pulled off my 3rd and find out its a V6 version instead of an I4, pack it all back up and head off to college.
Got a new 3rd in friday and I have a nice 3 day weekend so I headed home to work on it. Ok I'm ready to start working... so wheres my tools? Oh I left them at college, great. I was just so ready to get home that I forgot the tools that I would be needing.
Ok quick question. What would/could go wrong if I installed the Aussie and not have time to fully break it in (200 miles or so) before taking it out on the highway?
Reason being, I want this thing in before spring break or the summer which would give me enough break in time before heading back to college. Unlike a weekend where I would have to hit the highways not long after an install. So back to my question what could go wrong? Or is it just best to wait for the install when I have a longer break in period?
Got a new 3rd in friday and I have a nice 3 day weekend so I headed home to work on it. Ok I'm ready to start working... so wheres my tools? Oh I left them at college, great. I was just so ready to get home that I forgot the tools that I would be needing.
Ok quick question. What would/could go wrong if I installed the Aussie and not have time to fully break it in (200 miles or so) before taking it out on the highway?
Reason being, I want this thing in before spring break or the summer which would give me enough break in time before heading back to college. Unlike a weekend where I would have to hit the highways not long after an install. So back to my question what could go wrong? Or is it just best to wait for the install when I have a longer break in period?
#33
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I think for the break in it says just to not take it above 60mph or something like that for the first 200-500 or so miles. Shouldn't be a big problem long as your not ragging it. Just change the gear oil once you reach the 500mi mark (which can be done in a gas station parking lot if your really wanted to), and you're good to go.
You're not a cornhusker are you?
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