Testing rear window power switch (up/down)
#1
Testing rear window power switch (up/down)
My rear window works but the previous owner has jimmy rigged it up in a way that requires plugging the wire into the cigarette lighter and if I want the window to go the other way then I have to unplug it and switch the wires around lol Works but it's getting annoying so I'm going to try and fix it. Here it is . Can't really see it in the pic but the cigarette adapter is sorta broken and has a paper clip stuffed inside it lol
I followed the instructions in the FSM, and one of the test has me checking the continuity in the up/down switch in the center console for the rear window. ( http://web.archive.org/web/201008021...e/backdoor.pdf page 3)
When I test for continuity (while the switch is pressed up or down) my multi meter beeps but it shows 0 Ohms. Do I need a new switch or is it all good?
I followed the instructions in the FSM, and one of the test has me checking the continuity in the up/down switch in the center console for the rear window. ( http://web.archive.org/web/201008021...e/backdoor.pdf page 3)
When I test for continuity (while the switch is pressed up or down) my multi meter beeps but it shows 0 Ohms. Do I need a new switch or is it all good?
Last edited by mattyboi; 05-08-2016 at 07:17 PM.
#2
The console switch does not directly apply 12v power to the window motor.
It acts on a relay/relays in the drivers rear quarter area.
You need an electrical wireing diagram for your year/ model in order to make much headway..
The multiple interlocks and safetys built into the rear window system make troubleshooting a little less than straightforward.
It acts on a relay/relays in the drivers rear quarter area.
You need an electrical wireing diagram for your year/ model in order to make much headway..
The multiple interlocks and safetys built into the rear window system make troubleshooting a little less than straightforward.
#3
i've been thru the rear window cr*p on my '86 4runner, inside and out, including replacing all of the relays on the circuit board... it's still not 100%... see if this helps: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...arWindow.shtml
#4
I had a lot of problems with rear windows and here is what works for me>>>>https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51722787 on post 185&186.
#5
Since you motor works, I strongly recommend you tear out all the Jerry-rig parts, and restore wiring to stock. Pls see my thread for stock schematic and suggested test points.
Also inspect and test your wiring, especially the flex harness between door and body.
Report back and we'll talk.
Also inspect and test your wiring, especially the flex harness between door and body.
Report back and we'll talk.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 99
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Hello did you all miss the fact when the OP tested the switch it did ring out.
0 ohms means no resistance if the meter did not beep the circuit is open
Tells me the switch works .
OP do you have any idea just where those wires go attached to the power socket ??
Does the window work from the key switch in the hatch ??
These circuits are so simple compared to what I need to trouble shoot at work.
Why people butcher the stock wiring is beyond me.
0 ohms means no resistance if the meter did not beep the circuit is open
Tells me the switch works .
OP do you have any idea just where those wires go attached to the power socket ??
Does the window work from the key switch in the hatch ??
These circuits are so simple compared to what I need to trouble shoot at work.
Why people butcher the stock wiring is beyond me.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sandfantom
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
0
02-17-2016 06:11 AM