Well I just finished the writeup. Here is the text: (Edited 04 August 2003. Edited again 17 DEC 03. Last edit 17 DEC 07.)

2 SPEED COOLING FAN INSTALL IN 88-95 TOYOTA 3.0 V6 (HIGH SPEED HOOKUP)
BY ROME THE SEAFARINMAN

PARTS REQUIRED:
-COOLING FAN SOURCED FROM 88-95 FORD TAURUS/MERCURY SABLE WITH 3.8L V6 ENGINE (LOCAL BONEYARD $30)
-HAYDEN THERMOSTATIC FAN CONTROLLER PART #3647 (AUTO PARTS STORE $40 edit: I have switched to a 185* fixed sensor)
-HAYDEN RADIATOR REMOUNT KIT FOR OIL COOLER OR ELECTRIC FAN (AUTO PARTS STORE $6)
-***EDIT*** 85A Constant-Duty solenoid (got mine at West Marine for $39-can handle the massive startup current)
-SELF ADHESIVE WEATHERSTRIPPING (AUTO PARTS OR HARDWARE STORE $6)
-(4) NUTS AND (8)FLAT WASHERS (AUTO PARTS/HARDWARE STORE) TO HOLD WATERPUMP PULLEY ON WITHOUT OEM FAN
-CRIMP TERMINAL CONNECTORS AND CRIMPING TOOL
-COOLANT 10.5 QTS
-ASSORTED ZIP TIES
-ELECTRICAL TAPE
-ELECTRIC DRILL AND DRILL BITS
-SPLIT LOOM TUBING (FOR A OEM PROFESSIONAL LOOKING INSTALL)
-(OPTIONAL) NEW THERMOSTAT(I CHOSE A 180* ONE-STOCK IS 192*-$9) AND RADIATOR HOSES ($23)
-(IF REQUIRED) GRINDER TO GRIND DOWN WATERPUMP PULLEY STUDS

PROCEDURE:
A.) OEM FAN AND RADIATOR REMOVAL
1.) DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.
2.) DRAIN COOLANT FROM COOLING SYSTEM. OPEN PETCOCK VALVE ON LOWER PASSENGER SIDE OF RADIATOR AND DRAIN INTO
A SUITABLE CONTAINER. MAKE SURE TO CATCH AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE SINCE THIS STUFF IS TOXIC, AND VERY BAD FOR
THE ENVIRONMENT. (THE EPA CERTAINLY FROWNS ON GETTING IT INTO THE SEWER) PETS LOVE IT, BUT IT WILL KILL.
BESIDES IT JUSTS TASTES REALLY BAD (DON'T ASK HOW I KNOW)
3.) DISCONNECT OVERFLOW BOTTLE FROM RADIATOR.
4.) DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSES FROM RADIATOR.(BE CAREFUL WITH THE LOWER ONE OR YOU MIGHT GET TO TASTE THE
COOLANT LIKE I DID)
5.) UNBOLT RADIATOR FAN SHROUD FROM RADIATOR.
6.) UNBOLT OEM CLUTCH FAN FROM WATERPUMP.
7.) CAREFULLY LIFT OUT THE RADIATOR FAN SHROUD AND OEM CLUTCH FAN FROM BEHIND RADIATOR. SET ASIDE. YOU WON'T
BE NEEDING THESE ANYMORE.
8.) UNBOLT RADIATOR FROM SUPPORTS, AND LIFT RADIATOR FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT.
9.) INSTALL METRIC NUTS AND WASHERS (SPACERS) ON THE WATERPUMP PULLEY STUDS AND TIGHTEN SECURELY.
B.) THERMOSTATIC FAN CONTROLLER AND FAN INSTALL
1.) OPEN PACKAGE FOR THERMOSTATIC FAN CONTROLLER. REMOVE CONTROLLER AND HARNESS.
2.) LOCATE THERMAL SENSOR PROBE AND FOLLOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS. DETERMINE MOUNTING LOCATION BELOW UPPER RADIATOR
CONNECTION. TAKE A SMALL PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER AND OPEN A HOLE IN THE COOLING VANES FOR THE THERMAL PROBE TO
PIERCE THE COOLING VANES FROM THE REAR OF THE RADIATOR TO THE FRONT. INSTALL THERMAL PROBE ACCORDING TO THE
MANUFACTURER'S DIRECTIONS.
3.) ONCE THERMAL PROBE HAS BEEN SECURELY FASTENED TO RADIATOR, PLACE COOLING FAN ON RADIATOR AND DETERMINE YOUR
DESIRED PLACEMENT. (I INSTALLED MINE CENTERED FROM TOP TO BOTTOM, WITH THE EDGES RESTING ON THE OUTER EDGES
OF THE RADIATOR.) I DECIDED TO INSTALL THE FAN WITH THE FACTORY HARNESS AT THE 12 O'CLOCK POSITION. I ALSO
FOUND THAT ONE OF THE FAN'S FACTORY MOUNTING POINTS COINCIDED WITH ONE OF THE ORIGINAL FAN SHROUD ATTACHMENT
TABS-SO I INSTALLED A 10MM BOLT TO TEMPORARILY SECURE THE RADIATOR, AND INSTALLED IT IN THE TRUCK TO GET AN
IDEA OF HOW IT WOULD FIT. THERE APPEARED TO BE VERY LITTLE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE FAN MOTOR AND THE WATERPUMP
PULLEY STUDS.(3/8" CLEARANCE BETWEEN FAN MOTOR AND WATERPUMP PULLEY STUDS)
4.) REMOVE RADIATOR AND COOLING FAN. BECAUSE THERE WAS A POSSIBLE CLEARANCE ISSUE, I USED THE GRINDER TO GRIND OFF
THE EXPOSED STUDS BEYOND THE NUTS AND SPACERS. I GROUND THEM FLUSH.
5.) OPEN PACKAGE OF WEATHERSTRIPPING AND AFTER CLEANING EDGES OF FORD COOLING FAN SHROUD, APPLY WEATHERSTRIPPING
TO ALL EDGES OF SHROUD THAT WILL CONTACT THE COOLING VANES. I INSTALLED THE WEATHERSTRIPPING ALL AROUND EVEN
THOUGH ONLY THE TOP AND BOTTOM EDGES OF THE SHROUD WILL CONTACT THE COOLING VANES.
6.) OPEN PACKAGE OF RADIATOR REMOUNT KIT AND DETERMINE WHERE TO INSTALL CYLINDRICAL ZIP TIES. SINCE THERE WAS ONE
MOUNTING TAB THAT FIT THE RADIATOR SHROUD MOUNTING TAB, I DECIDED TO USE IT. I DECIDED TO INSTALL THE CYL ZIP
TIES IN EACH CORNER. TAKE THE DRILL AND A BIT, AND CAREFULLY DRILL FOUR HOLES IN THE SHROUD AROUND THE FAN
BLADES BEING CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL INTO THE BLADES, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY, NOT TO DRILL INTO THE RADIATOR. INSERT
THE CYL ZIP TIES THROUGH THE HOLES DRILLED INTO THE SHROUD, AND CAREFULLY PUSH THEM THROUGH THE RADIATOR
COOLING VANES. INSTALL THE LOCKS ON THE TIES, AND SNIP OFF THE EXCESS LENGTH.
7.) (OPTIONAL) INSTALL NEW COOLER THERMOSTAT (IF DESIRED)
8.) RE-INSTALL THE RADIATOR AND MOUNTED COOLING FAN UNDER THE HOOD. BOLT RADIATOR TO SUPPORTS, AND REINSTALL RADIATOR
HOSES OR INSTALL NEW HOSES.
9.) CONNECT THERMOSTATIC FAN CONTROLLER HARNESS ACCORDING TO SUPPLIED INSTRUCTIONS. (I CONNNECTED THE RED +12 CONSTANT
AND YELLOW +12 SWITCHED TOGETHER TO THE BATTERY BUT THAT IS JUST MY PREFERENCE.(edit: I had problems with the fan staying on all the time due to malfunction of the controller. I have since connected the +12 switched wire to the 7.5A ignition fuse using a "Add-a-circuit" piggy back fuse holder)

*** Connect the fan output wire on the thermoswitch harness to one of the "trigger" terminals (small terminals) on the solenoid. The other "trigger" terminal goes to ground. The large terminals are connected to the fan "+" wire and to battery. Make sure to use at least an 8ga wire for the battery connection. The other fan wire goes to ground.***

(17 DEC 03 edit: on 25 OCT, I installed a "cooling" indicator light in the dash so that I can verify when and under what conditions my fan comes on. I used the following part from Radio Shack
272-335 Blue Snap-in 12VDC Lamp assembly
I wired the light in parallel with the fan output lead on the fan controller and to ground on the other end. Works great!)

10.) ENSURE THAT ALL WIRES ARE CLEAR OF ALL MOVING PARTS SUCH AS THE POWER STEERING PUMP AND WATER PUMP PULLEY.
11.) REFILL RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM.
12.) RECONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.
13.) START ENGINE AND RUN TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE.
14.) TEST A/C OVER-RIDE BY SWITCHING ON A/C. IF WIRED CORRECTLY, THIS SHOULD START COOLING FAN REGARDLESS OF THE
ENGINE TEMPERATURE.
15.) SHUT DOWN ENGINE AND TOP OFF COOLANT IN RADIATOR AND OVERFLOW TANK.

(Edit: Make sure to mount fan controller (adjustable) or relay harness away from the radiator and shroud. I have cooked (2) of these and have since swapped to a fixed 185* temperature switch~fingers crossed~it has been good for a week now, and a really scary trip to Evans Creek with the A/C running the whole time!)

16.) INSERT WIRING HARNESS INTO SPLIT LOOM TUBING AND WRAP WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE AS DESIRED.
17.) ENJOY THE LOW ENGINE TEMPERATURES, COLDER AIR CONDITIONING, INCREASED THROTTLE RESPONSE, AND SLIGHTLY BETTER
FUEL ECONOMY. (AS WELL AS THE MONEY THAT YOU SAVED FROM NOT GETTING THE FLEX-A-LITE FAN! )

 

I think Toyota put in a 193* thermostat for a reason. The EFI system has a coolant temp sensor and with a 180* wouldn't it never get out of warm up mode?

 

I don't know. All I do is that my truck doesn't overheat anymore. With the 192* thermostat, it would run way hot all of the time. I have been lucky that I haven't blown the head gasket. I think that I can always compensate for the cooler thermostat by setting my cooling fan controller higher.

 

Which would essentially make it a more responsive ECT mod.

(Dr Z if I'm off base correct me... )

This is a mod I'm VERY excited about cuz it's something that I can likely afford right now!

 

I found a pic with dimensions for a Taurus fan.
Seafarinman, does this match yours?

 

Yoda, the dimensions are like 17"x22". It is pretty much a perfect fit on my radiator. That picture looks like it though.

 

you think that the taurus fan would work on a 22re or would i be better off going to the junkyard and just finding a electric fan that would fit? just curiouse cause i need a new fan anywyas, might as well make it electric!


thanks
wade

 

Wade,
"Alimony" mentioned that he did the same fan install that I did on the same weekend that I did, so I guess that it fits the 22RE just the same. You won't be disappointed.

 

ok thanks
i was just gonna make sure it will work cause the junkyards around here charge like 50 bucks for that fan!!! i dunno i might take a run down to the big junkyards in walla walla....its about an hour drive but they have 4 blue 94 toyota pikcups just like mine for parts!!! and itll save alot of money...(they want 35 for the taurs fan) in any case im gonna try and get it done before yotajam....laterz and thanks for the help
wade

 

do you HAVE to grind down the fan mounting studs? You said there is 3/8" clearance, is that before or after grinding?

Steve

 

If I remember correctly I had to grind them down since they were pretty close. There is no room to maneuver the radiator after the fan is mounted. That is why I had to grind them down~it is for installation and later removal of the radiator. Test fit yours and make your decision based on your results.

 

is removal of the radiator necessary for the installation of the fan? I'm sure it would make it easier, but is it necessary?

Thanks,

steve

 

I would have to say yes that you must remove the radiator. I tried that with the very first electric fan that I installed in my rig(2000). It was pretty much impossible to get the smaller thinner 16" Hayden fan mounted properly. It was a little loose, and that looseness caused the fan to bounce around tearing up the cooling vanes on the radiator. Now if you don't have A/C and there is no heat exchanger or transmission cooler, then it might be a possibility. As tightly as the Taurus fan fits in there, I would have to say that you must remove it. How else are you going to install the weatherstripping and drill the holes in the shroud for the mounting ties? Besides it would be the perfect time to get some new coolant and perhaps a cooler thermostat in there. If your coolant is new, then just filter it before pouring it back in. I learned all this the hard way, and don't wish for anyone else to experience my mistakes.

 

 

So what is the word on the 3rd Gen V6's using this mod?

Dan

 

Rome,

Does the Hayden Thermostatic controller allow you to set the temperature that the fans kicks on at? For example, I only want it to kick on at 192 degrees, where the stock thermo would have normally kicked on. I also have the 180 degree thermostat, so I want the coolant recirculate up until the engine hits 192 degrees, and then at that point, the fan would kick on. Would the Hayden controller let me do that?

Chris

P.S. I also don't see any mention of the relays. Does your list included everything needed or are the relays missing if I want to run the high fan speed?

 

Chris,
You can get the adjustable thermostat that allows you to set anywhere from 160*-210* like I had (but somehow I cooked 2 of those since I mounted them on the the top of the shroud) and I have since replaced it with a fixed 185* sensor (I have a 180* thermostat) and mounted the relay and wire harness away from the radiator, actually between the inner right side fender and battery. They have many different set temperature switches. Take a look at the auto parts store to be sure what they have where you are located.

 

Good deal! I wonder if you had mounted the adjustable ones in the same place you have it now, if they would have lasted too? I'd like to have an adjustable one, but if they won't last, I'll go with a fixed probably at 190 - 195 degrees.

Chris

 

Yeah, the adjustable ones that I had was the one with the rheostat mounted in the relay block. At $40 each, cooking 2 of them was too much. The fixed ones are a bit cheaper. I also have an older adjustable one that has a sensor probe that inserts into the radiator hose itself instead of the cooling vanes of the radiator. It is simple~just a bimetal spring that cloes the circuit at the temperature that you dial it to. I think that they still sell those at Summit Racing. I think that I am going to edit my writeup to reflect that the relay/temp controller should be mounted away from the radiator!

 

Okay, I'm going to go with a fixed one probably, because of cost and I figure I wouldn't need to change it anyway. Would there be any reason to adjust it anyway?

Chris