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I have a 93 ex cab sr5. I have been concerned about the handling since I got it & have started replacing suspension parts. I plan to do the ball joints, idler arm & probably the steering box (may try to adjust 1st if I can get the screw to move independent of the nut).
My question is about the shackles & springs. I recently had the leaf springs & shocks replaced. I should've done it myself. I feel like they gouged me on parts, didn't do the front shocks & cut half way through the one spring mount. Anyway, part of why I had the leaf springs replaced was it seemed like the back was a bit saggy. I'm wondering if the shackles were properly set because the back still seems to sit lower than the front even with new springs/shocks. I don't have a whole lot of experience with leaf springs & they are angled back quite a bit (about a 45° angle toward the back of the truck). It also feels pretty stiff as if the shocks are compressed but that may be just the difference between the old front shocks & the new rear.
I have a 93 ex cab sr5. I have been concerned about the handling since I got it & have started replacing suspension parts. I plan to do the ball joints, idler arm & probably the steering box (may try to adjust 1st if I can get the screw to move independent of the nut).
My question is about the shackles & springs. I recently had the leaf springs & shocks replaced. I should've done it myself. I feel like they gouged me on parts, didn't do the front shocks & cut half way through the one spring mount. Anyway, part of why I had the leaf springs replaced was it seemed like the back was a bit saggy. I'm wondering if the shackles were properly set because the back still seems to sit lower than the front even with new springs/shocks. I don't have a whole lot of experience with leaf springs & they are angled back quite a bit (about a 45° angle toward the back of the truck). It also feels pretty stiff as if the shocks are compressed but that may be just the difference between the old front shocks & the new rear.
First off, please tell us WHAT concerns you have regarding handling. We might be able to save you a LOT of money that you could throw at it trying to fix something that either doesn't need fixing or won't go away with just throwing parts at it.
Secondly, we can't see your truck to throw our 2 cents in on the "saggy butt syndrome". Keep in mind that the front wheel arch is taller than the rear and can make the truck look like it is sitting lower in the back than it really is.
Thirdly, don't adjust the steering box unless you know what you are doing, there HAS to be at least a little play or you will have a really twitchy feel to your steering where it will go anywhere but straight.
Fourthly, what exactly do you mean about "if the shackles were properly set"? To make sure the BUSHINGS are correctly set for ride height all you have to do is to loosen the bolts with the truck on the ground at ride height, bounce the truck and retighten them.
Also, is your truck lifted or bone stock?
That was a lot of info I didn't think to put down & thanks for the reply. My steering to me felt loose from the start, there is about 3 inches of travel with the steering wheel to keep it straight on the road. Often when driving on an angled surface (like most roads) I have to keep the wheel turned a bit uphill to stay straight. I have taken it a few places & they say it's fine but to me (compared to what I remember from my 98 but that was 21yrs ago) it feels sloppy. In the past few months I have noticed that if I sit in the driveway & turn the wheel left/right or going slow over a rough surface I can feel a catch at the outer edge of that 3 inches of travel. I can't watch the tires myself but I did get in & turn it while my phone recorded the steering components. I couldn't tell that the play was after the steering box. I can tell that all the boots for the ball joints are cracking or have outer layers of the rubber wearing off. I also got a complete history with the vehicle & although all regular maintenance was done at a dealership there was nothing about suspension or steering components. This is why I thought to replace the ball joints. Back to the steering, I'm pretty sure the play is either the steering box or between that & the steering wheel.
The truck is bone stock except the rear suspension which is not oem but napa replacement. I have also considered completely restoring the truck. There is a fair amount of rust underneath but the frame sounds solid if you tap around on it. It leaks some fluids but runs well & starts every time with no hesitation. I bought it to run to get wood or dirt but ended up falling in love with it. My other car is a 16 sti & it tends to sit a lot since I got the truck. I am no mechanic & don't know correct names for all the parts but I have been doing work on cars (mostly brakes, suspension, steering, some transmission & a bit of body work) for 25yrs. I also am aware I don't know much so I have no issue taking advice or researching methods.
Ball joints are not a "maintenance" item; you don't replace them just because it hasn't been done yet.
Don't guess. Don't replace parts based on a guess. You will go bankrupt long before you fix anything.
Ball joints are not a "maintenance" item; you don't replace them just because it hasn't been done yet.
Don't guess. Don't replace parts based on a guess. You will go bankrupt long before you fix anything.
Thanks much, the info will come in handy. I know the ball joints aren't maintenance but the rubber covers are in bad shape. I live in northern Ohio & road dirt & salt can get in when the rubber is bad causing issues. I didn't think to look if I can get new covers. I also neglected to mention a kind of click sound at the end of a stop or starting from a stop. It sounds as if metal is moving on metal similar to when you crack a lug nut loose. You can also feel it in the steering wheel. I will try to find someone to turn the steering & stop/start acceleration while I watch. I will also try the tests in the pdf posted. Thanks again.
a little confused to what mean by your leaf spring angle being at a 45. do you mean the shackle angle? the shackle angle is not adjustable, unless you either move your shackle hanger or are running a longer/shorter leaf than oem. looks like a good ride angle to me.
My steering to me felt loose from the start, there is about 3 inches of travel with the steering wheel to keep it straight on the road. Often when driving on an angled surface (like most roads) I have to keep the wheel turned a bit uphill to stay straight. I have taken it a few places & they say it's fine but to me (compared to what I remember from my 98 but that was 21yrs ago) it feels sloppy.
In the past few months I have noticed that if I sit in the driveway & turn the wheel left/right or going slow over a rough surface I can feel a catch at the outer edge of that 3 inches of travel.
I can tell that all the boots for the ball joints are cracking or have outer layers of the rubber wearing off.
Back to the steering, I'm pretty sure the play is either the steering box or between that & the steering wheel.
There is a fair amount of rust underneath but the frame sounds solid if you tap around on it.
Comparing the steering in a 93 to a 98 is not a good test of anything, one has a conventional steering box and the other is rack and pinion. Your description of the steering sounds pretty normal to me, for a conventional setup.
you may have some additional play in something, but don't just throw money at it. stick a 2x4 block between the upper control arm and the suspension stop and jack up the truck by the frame, you can then wiggle the wheel up/down, side/side to feel for play in wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods etc.
get a buddy to wiggle while you look for play so you can see exactly what pieces need replacing.
Look for play in the steering shaft from the column to the box, but other than that don't worry about play in the steering box. Replace it if it leaks like a pig or is obviously broken.
As to rust, check the frame by the front of the rear leaf springs. They start to rust out right where the hanger is attached to the frame.
As to the "saggy butt syndrome" stand way back in a level parking lot and look at the bottom of the cab/bed, if it is parallel to the ground you are good to go, don't pay any attention to how much space is above the front and rear tires in the wheel well.
a little confused to what mean by your leaf spring angle being at a 45. do you mean the shackle angle? the shackle angle is not adjustable, unless you either move your shackle hanger or are running a longer/shorter leaf than oem. looks like a good ride angle to me.
I have very little experience with leaf springs. I had them done out of lack of time but I am pretty sure they are oem length. I wasn't aware the shackles are not adjustable.
Originally Posted by akwheeler
Comparing the steering in a 93 to a 98 is not a good test of anything, one has a conventional steering box and the other is rack and pinion. Your description of the steering sounds pretty normal to me, for a conventional setup.
you may have some additional play in something, but don't just throw money at it. stick a 2x4 block between the upper control arm and the suspension stop and jack up the truck by the frame, you can then wiggle the wheel up/down, side/side to feel for play in wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods etc.
get a buddy to wiggle while you look for play so you can see exactly what pieces need replacing.
Look for play in the steering shaft from the column to the box, but other than that don't worry about play in the steering box. Replace it if it leaks like a pig or is obviously broken.
As to rust, check the frame by the front of the rear leaf springs. They start to rust out right where the hanger is attached to the frame.
As to the "saggy butt syndrome" stand way back in a level parking lot and look at the bottom of the cab/bed, if it is parallel to the ground you are good to go, don't pay any attention to how much space is above the front and rear tires in the wheel well.
I think dyslexia struck again, my old truck was an 89 not a 98. Your point is still pretty valid because I am also going off what I remember from about 25yrs ago. I imagine going back & forth between a car quicker steering/less sidewall & the truck doesn't help either. I just think 3 inches of travel to keep a vehicle straight is a bit excessive.
Thanks all, I received some great advice to hunt down the actual cause.
. ... I will try to find someone to turn the steering & stop/start acceleration while I watch. I will also try the tests in the pdf posted. ...
There you go, best way to troubleshoot is to see it for yourself. See what components are following or not following the pitman are, for example.
Idler arm is another component that gets stressed a lot, especially by people who have a habit of turning steering forcefully before wheels roll . Simple to check and/or replace.
RE: Ball-joints. The upper ball-joints carry most of the load on our torsion bar-equipped trucks. Expect more wear on those. I only replaced my UBJ's because I saw play on one of them.
Here is the Factory Repair Manual section for measuring steering wheel free-play:
Compare your measurement to the factory spec.
If you measured the same way that the manual describes, 3 inches is certainly excessive.
I would like to point out here that the adjustment procedure in the manual assumes that all of the linkages (tie rods etc.) are tight as well as steering shaft u-joints and/or rag joints.
What they are trying to say is that you should have just over 1 inch of travel with no movement of the pitman arm (but they don't spell that out) and "light finger pressure" which is pretty vague. One person might think "bounce the wheel back and forth with one finger" while another might say "just slowly move the wheel with one finger until it stops and move it back the other way".
They also don't mention that if you have power steering you need to do the test with the engine OFF!
You will likely have more play (or it will feel like it) when you are actually driving on the road.
Just pay attention to the part about not binding, otherwise you might get pulled over on suspicion of DUI, or worse get in a wreck.
After all this great info I plan to test everything before replacing anything then working my way from the wheels to the steering box & from the steering wheel to the box.
been driving the subaru till I have time to work on it. I'm also considering how much the difference between the fast steering in the subaru to the truck.
12-01-2019, 11:01 PM
