sunk my 4x, hydro lock, fixed, now doesn't idle
#1
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sunk my 4x, hydro lock, fixed, now doesn't idle
been wheeling a few times (recently in Spanaway), and bombed a huge water pit to create a hydro lock.
pulled my truck to land, cleared the top end (removed plugs, ) drained oil (and somewater) and replaced air cleaner, and now, the truck can idle slightly by itself, but if i drive it, and slow down it dies.
also, if i rev it up, it will drop idle to death.
but if i just turn it on, and level it out easy, it can idle.
im saving for a snorkel now, but for today, what do i need to clean/ replace/ dry to get my idle back ??
no pix, b/c we went nite romping.
pulled my truck to land, cleared the top end (removed plugs, ) drained oil (and somewater) and replaced air cleaner, and now, the truck can idle slightly by itself, but if i drive it, and slow down it dies.
also, if i rev it up, it will drop idle to death.
but if i just turn it on, and level it out easy, it can idle.
im saving for a snorkel now, but for today, what do i need to clean/ replace/ dry to get my idle back ??
no pix, b/c we went nite romping.
#2
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BTW, it does warm up fine, and drive fine, and i did a search, "idle" but only foun d one thousand threads
i was considering taking off the plenim (recently did 4 months ago), would i need another gasket if i did this (if its necessary)
ive checked all intake tubes, no leaks, or loose clamps
a friend who wheels a lot advised me to rid my NGK plugs and get platinum or irridium plugs to prevent stallouts in water (2nd time i did this).
is that worth the cost (new plugs last Dec.)
TRUCK= 3.-vze, replaced head gaskets w/in 2 years, runs great/ ran perfect till the sinking.
water line was just above the tires/ below the headlights
i was considering taking off the plenim (recently did 4 months ago), would i need another gasket if i did this (if its necessary)
ive checked all intake tubes, no leaks, or loose clamps
a friend who wheels a lot advised me to rid my NGK plugs and get platinum or irridium plugs to prevent stallouts in water (2nd time i did this).
is that worth the cost (new plugs last Dec.)
TRUCK= 3.-vze, replaced head gaskets w/in 2 years, runs great/ ran perfect till the sinking.
water line was just above the tires/ below the headlights
Last edited by idanity; 11-30-2009 at 05:28 PM.
#4
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Definitely check that the AFM is clean, as well as the idle air passages in the throttle body, like what ozzies' said. And no spark plug is going to do anything about water- if a plug could resist water, they could resist anything that would foul them out.
#5
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kinda what i thought about the plugs too, but they are all saying the NGK's i have are not hot enough to stay alight (i laugh b/c there was about a gallon of water in the engine )...
and i will redo all that stuff when i get another sunny day (i was up till 4am on thanksgiving night/ friday doing the 1st cleaning).
could water get in the fuel rail ??
and i will redo all that stuff when i get another sunny day (i was up till 4am on thanksgiving night/ friday doing the 1st cleaning).
could water get in the fuel rail ??
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#9
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I hydro locked mine a few weeks ago. mine didnt idle either. it was the afm. it tested fine but the door didn't move smooth and would get stuck half open and would make it run too rich. new one form the yard for 9 bux runs better than ever
#10
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its the place w/all the abandoned cars/ house w/out a roof/ muddy, rolling hills and a lake..
lost of standing water after rains, and tons of mudd (mega tons)
btw.
i pulled off the intake hoses, and sprayed it down w/ carb cleaner, no change.
i will pull apart the AFM and check the potentiometer and ensure its dry.
the cap/rotor was dry.
lost of standing water after rains, and tons of mudd (mega tons)
btw.
i pulled off the intake hoses, and sprayed it down w/ carb cleaner, no change.
i will pull apart the AFM and check the potentiometer and ensure its dry.
the cap/rotor was dry.
#11
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the AFM apapears fine/ at least its dry, and it is very clean.
why else would my truck idle badly ?
seems all the water is out,
oil change,
cleaned out the throttle body, but it wasn't really dirty.
should i begin taking stuff off/ apart, or just remove the plugs again, and clean them ??
why else would my truck idle badly ?
seems all the water is out,
oil change,
cleaned out the throttle body, but it wasn't really dirty.
should i begin taking stuff off/ apart, or just remove the plugs again, and clean them ??
#12
The AFM can look fine but really need replacing. If you got a haynes manual or any yota book on your truck look up the AFM or go online or what ever do the terminal testing resistance ,and if any of the tests for resistance are out of spec your AFM needs replacing. Check flapper door and make sure its not sticking at all. Does it open and close all the way? Check all vac hoses for water, particuallarly the onces off throttle body and air control valve under the throttle body. Intake hoses leaking? When you said you fixed the hydro lock,... what did you do exactlly? Rebuild? Or just get water out and drive? Valve issues? Bent rods? Intake manifold leaking? Oh and um NGK plugs are #1 recommended brand for toyotas beside OEM yota plugs so who ever told you otherwise is a tard. Put NGK plugs in there only. They make NGK platinum and irridiaum..... ("To prevent stall outs in water.")< thats the dumbest thing i've ever heard your not supose to be sucking up water in your engine anytime and really not drving in it....
#13
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i just pulled the plugs, drained oil, air/oil filter, wired the plugs, sprayed intake w/cleaner and drove...
it drives great, even though i ruined a sp.plg. wire...the internal part came out, and i replaced that w/an extra one ..(now, i have 1 ngk platinum plug and 5 dupro (whatever OEM is)...is this an issue ??
will check the vacuum hoses, but there are about 39 different ones (i hate them all on the passenger side).
now also, as i drive, it will idle over 1k, like its in a warm up mode.
if it does drop, it surges to 1 hundred and hunts, but if i drive it a bit, or rev it high and let go, it now stays about 1,100 rpm (which is much higher, before it would idle @ 800 ish rpm. this has me thinking its the idle control, or maybe just like some say, the AFM ...
it drives great, even though i ruined a sp.plg. wire...the internal part came out, and i replaced that w/an extra one ..(now, i have 1 ngk platinum plug and 5 dupro (whatever OEM is)...is this an issue ??
will check the vacuum hoses, but there are about 39 different ones (i hate them all on the passenger side).
now also, as i drive, it will idle over 1k, like its in a warm up mode.
if it does drop, it surges to 1 hundred and hunts, but if i drive it a bit, or rev it high and let go, it now stays about 1,100 rpm (which is much higher, before it would idle @ 800 ish rpm. this has me thinking its the idle control, or maybe just like some say, the AFM ...
#14
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been another week, and tihe idle is still hovering around 1100 instead of 850.
also, let my friend drive my truck, and now the e-brake doesn't work, sticking and not returning w/spring action any longer
also, let my friend drive my truck, and now the e-brake doesn't work, sticking and not returning w/spring action any longer
#15
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Thread Starter
all other issues resolved, (ebrake, etc)
but the idle, will hover at 900 on startup (after warmup for 4 minutes, if left alone) and after i drive it, it will hover at 1100 ..
idle stays high, and it whines too.
i thought the cap/ rotor were dry, or sounds like that, but the engine either has belt whine, or could this be the alt ??
i guess i could remove the belt for the alt, to test.
any ideas on revs ?? seems like something is stuck
but the idle, will hover at 900 on startup (after warmup for 4 minutes, if left alone) and after i drive it, it will hover at 1100 ..
idle stays high, and it whines too.
i thought the cap/ rotor were dry, or sounds like that, but the engine either has belt whine, or could this be the alt ??
i guess i could remove the belt for the alt, to test.
any ideas on revs ?? seems like something is stuck
#16
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did you pull the DISTRIBUITOR CAP off and check for any type of moisture in the cap..
its quite possible you bent your rods sene you hydrolocked your engine...
its quite possible you bent your rods sene you hydrolocked your engine...
#17
Is is causing any driveablity issues? Check Idle air control valve and or take it off and clean it. Try tapping it and see if idle changes. Any codes? TPS? Sticky throttle? Vac leaks in main intake tube.
#19
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iTrader: (6)
bet you got water and mud in your tps and that's the problem. If you got water in the intake then it probably got into the tps as well. Does the throttle body cycle as it should? Flap opens and closes properly? Get any moisture in that area and it is sure to screw some stuff up so that's my guess.
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