Stumbling/Hesitation during acceleration
#41
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Hmmm....my 3.0 was doing the same thing. It ran fairly well while driving, but would die at an idle before or after reaching operating temp. I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor and it stopped doing it. I even had more power after that. Oh, and the clicking noise went away, too.
#42
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I don't know how much they are new. I happened to have a spare one from another motor around. What you can do to find out if it's the culprit is, like the TPS, unhook it and see if it makes a difference running. It should run a little better. Also, if you pull the sensor and it's all rusty and green, clean it up real good and see if that makes an improvement. If so, in any case, replace it.
#43
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Ok, Ill start checking for fuel cloggs. Also, Iv had others tell me that the TPS could be out of adjustment, could that cause all this, Stumbling and dying?
Will it be ok to drive it for a couple more days?
Will it be ok to drive it for a couple more days?
#44
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It might be fine to drive...just depends on what it is.
#45
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the in-tank fuel strainer is much finer screened than the main inline filter. it is a PITA though to change, involves dropping the tank and pulling the pump.
has the truck been driven in deep water or had lots of water in the pass floorboard? if so or even if not i would pull your ecu. take the cover screws off of both sides and inspect it for corrosion. that could be your problem.
see if this link helps it was the problem my friends truck had.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...driving-83431/
has the truck been driven in deep water or had lots of water in the pass floorboard? if so or even if not i would pull your ecu. take the cover screws off of both sides and inspect it for corrosion. that could be your problem.
see if this link helps it was the problem my friends truck had.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...driving-83431/
#46
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Its beginning to sound more and more like a fuel delivery problem. Which then you'd have to check fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. The FPR test is easy, there's two ports in the diagnostic terminal you short and you should be able to hear a hissing sound coming from the FPR(all this is mentioned in the FSM)
#48
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To check if that EGR is the problem just remove the EGR hose from the intake and plug the place where it went in. If the EGR valve is the problem then it should at least run more normally without emissions going into the intake at all.
#49
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I have a similar problem...
I have an 88 SR5 with a 22RE. Had to do an engine swap due to really bad head gasket and almost 200K on the original. Problem existed before the swap. The engine idles smooth, but cuts out and nearlly dies as you open the throttle. Tried swapping parts one at a time from another running 88. MAF, Igniter and coil, Distributor, ECU. Installed new fuel pump and nothing changed. Installed new injectors and thought the problem went away briefly, but it remains and still boggles my mind. Please help.
#50
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This is straight from the FAQ on Pirate:
"The EFI computer receives a signal from the brake circuit that tells it that the brakes are being applied. This causes the computer to shut off the injectors if the RPM's are over a certain level and the engine is in "closed loop" as engine power should not be needed if the brakes are being applied.I believe the set point for the injector cut out is 850 to 900 RPM.
"The EFI computer receives a signal from the brake circuit that tells it that the brakes are being applied. This causes the computer to shut off the injectors if the RPM's are over a certain level and the engine is in "closed loop" as engine power should not be needed if the brakes are being applied.I believe the set point for the injector cut out is 850 to 900 RPM.
My truck (22RE 1988 SR5 4X4 ) idles smooth, but will not rev if you open the throttle. Have checked fuel pressure, ruled out all major EFI components except TB and upper intake, and distrib and Coil/igniter, replaced pump and injectors (thought problem went away at this point, then came back). The engine will rev higher than 850 or 900 if I only crack the throttle slightly while not under load.
#53
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Can this cause the 22RE not to rev? Is there anyway the ECU could get a false signal that the brake is being pushed and cut off the fuel?
My truck (22RE 1988 SR5 4X4 ) idles smooth, but will not rev if you open the throttle. Have checked fuel pressure, ruled out all major EFI components except TB and upper intake, and distrib and Coil/igniter, replaced pump and injectors (thought problem went away at this point, then came back). The engine will rev higher than 850 or 900 if I only crack the throttle slightly while not under load.
My truck (22RE 1988 SR5 4X4 ) idles smooth, but will not rev if you open the throttle. Have checked fuel pressure, ruled out all major EFI components except TB and upper intake, and distrib and Coil/igniter, replaced pump and injectors (thought problem went away at this point, then came back). The engine will rev higher than 850 or 900 if I only crack the throttle slightly while not under load.
#55
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I found the damn culprit tonight! If you have an '87 or '88, then you probably have a Banjo bolt on your fuel rail with a Fuel Damper (pulse suppressor) on it. My truck was dying during acceleration because the bolt I have is made different than my friends and the copper crush washer was sealing off the passage from the fitting into the bolt - thus stopping the flow of fuel. For now we put it on without a washer. The local Toy dealer says the bolt is $129.00.
We took pictures and hope this may help others. Mine is on the left. His had a square shaft and this keeps the washer from closing off the opening.
We took pictures and hope this may help others. Mine is on the left. His had a square shaft and this keeps the washer from closing off the opening.
Last edited by Bako88; 09-09-2008 at 02:18 PM.
#56
hate to throw up a old ass thread. but the problems are back again damnit. new filter,egr,tested the fuel pump,tps it drives and goes but wont rev when i smash the gas it's like a slowly get there thing.
#58
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However, it does sound like an air-fuel mixture problem. Or fuel limitation. Or a timing problem.
Well, that didn't help.
But to answer your question, can't see how the charcoal box can affect acceleration.
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