Stumbling/Hesitation during acceleration
#22
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Have you checked your TPS, and AFM? Either can cause symptoms like that.
Symptoms are only at idle? Pull your TPS connector and see if it performs the same. If so, its not the TPS. You will throw a code, but if the TPS is not working, you should see the symptoms go away while disconnected.
To check the AFM takes a bit more work.
How is acceleration after the initial hesitation?
How is acceleration above 3k?
Symptoms are only at idle? Pull your TPS connector and see if it performs the same. If so, its not the TPS. You will throw a code, but if the TPS is not working, you should see the symptoms go away while disconnected.
To check the AFM takes a bit more work.
How is acceleration after the initial hesitation?
How is acceleration above 3k?
#23
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fuel filter is pretty new.
It will only die at ide, but the stumbling/hesitating during acceleration is constant.
Acceleration really does not improve, its the same all the way up to 70, BAD.
So disconnect the TPS and check for change?
It will only die at ide, but the stumbling/hesitating during acceleration is constant.
Acceleration really does not improve, its the same all the way up to 70, BAD.
So disconnect the TPS and check for change?
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Correct. If the symptoms are the same, problem is not the TPS. Ignore the code for the check. I've not seem a TPS fail that way, but its an easy check. For the AFM, follow the directions in the FSM. Its an expensive part, so hopefully that is not the problem. They do go bad, but apparently at fairly high mileage, based on my experience.
#25
Check for vacuum line leaks, I got two hoses crossed once ,ran like your talkin'. To rule out EGR suck on the hose at the top while at idle, it should bog down,even more , but I'm tellin' ya if it's even a little open(sticking) it'll be difficult or IMPOSSIBLE to even keep it idling. Don't stress out man, we're here for ya
Last edited by MudHippy; 01-29-2007 at 12:51 PM.
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#30
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Sounds like the problem I had not too long ago. Do you have an FSM? If not lemme look at mine and get back to you. Its late and I'm afraid of typing the wrong thing and cuase you more grief.
#31
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yeah I have a factory service manual, and a Haynes, and a couple of friends willing to stand there and drink beer and watch me get pissed off.
Why, you know something good?
Why, you know something good?
#32
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Is this only occuring once when it reaches operating temp.
Here was the thread I had not too long ago.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/stumbling-hesitating-when-reaches-operating-temp-egr-valve-103517/
Last edited by Silicon_70; 01-30-2007 at 09:44 AM.
#35
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I probably changed it 5-10,000 mile ago. Would that cause an immediate change from perfect to crappy? Thats what happened, I was driving and all the sudden it started running like crap, split/second change.
#36
EGR , I'll keep sayin' it, 'till you tell me ya checked it. Jus' tryin' ta help. Another thought on makin' sure it isn't that would be to by-pass the unit altogether. Disconnect at plenum and stick a cork in the hole, if this immediately solves your problem IT'S THE EGR! TRUST ME ON THIS!
Last edited by MudHippy; 01-30-2007 at 05:12 PM.
#38
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EGR , I'll keep sayin' it, 'till you tell me ya checked it. Jus' tryin' ta help. Another thought on makin' sure it isn't that would be to by-pass the unit altogether. Disconnect at plenum and stick a cork in the hole, if this immediately solves your problem IT'S THE EGR! TRUST ME ON THIS!
Its beginning to sound more and more like a fuel delivery problem. Which then you'd have to check fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. The FPR test is easy, there's two ports in the diagnostic terminal you short and you should be able to hear a hissing sound coming from the FPR(all this is mentioned in the FSM)
Let us know what you find on testing the EGR.
#39
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Hmmm....my 3.0 was doing the same thing. It ran fairly well while driving, but would die at an idle before or after reaching operating temp. I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor and it stopped doing it. I even had more power after that. Oh, and the clicking noise went away, too.
Last edited by thook; 01-31-2007 at 02:36 AM.
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have you done the obvious? check cap/rotor/plugs?? Try some redline fuel system cleaner in a 1/4 tank of gas, maybe pull the air intake away from the throttle body and spray some cleaner in there.
I've done all of the above and its helped a bit, but when cold it will idle fine but for the first minute or so if I don't rev past 3500 to get going it will almost die, even when i put the clutch in it takes a sec to recover and get back to idle. I have never had a check engine light. Very interested in what you find!
I've done all of the above and its helped a bit, but when cold it will idle fine but for the first minute or so if I don't rev past 3500 to get going it will almost die, even when i put the clutch in it takes a sec to recover and get back to idle. I have never had a check engine light. Very interested in what you find!