straight axle
#62
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: BAy area, California
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sweet, i think im just gonna save up some money and to the SAS and make it worth my while. but then there's re-gearing, and a locker, and christmas is comming up... *uck i think i need to start selling myself or something
#64
Contributing Member
IF you can weld, plan on $3000 to do it right.
If you CAN'T weld, better make it $6000
That kind of scratch would completely build your rig with lockers and armor on IFS and you'll be able to go just about anywhere the SFA rigs can go.
If you CAN'T weld, better make it $6000
That kind of scratch would completely build your rig with lockers and armor on IFS and you'll be able to go just about anywhere the SFA rigs can go.
Last edited by tc; 12-02-2008 at 07:33 PM.
#65
Contributing Member
Even with ARB's and a Total Chaos Idler you could build it for less than 3k with the IFS.
#66
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Denver, CO
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If you want a SFA buy an older truck or 4 runner then you don't have to worry about doing a SAS.
#67
Contributing Member
And don't buy an older truck. Get as new as you can. You have to do almost as much work, and the cost is the same, to build an old SA rig into a capable trail truck. Gotta cut off the front hangers, get rid of the steering, buy an IFS box, longer springs, rebuild the front axle, yada yada. With IFS you have a little more cutting to do, but thats it, and you can get a truck with less mileage. usually, and cheaper, with fuel injection.
#68
Contributing Member
Yeah, I probably didn't phrase that last part right ... a SFA rig can certainly be a better rockcrawler than an IFS rig and can go places an IFS rig only dreams about, but to get to that point, you have almost no body left, certainly no glass, and it's probably not street legal (and if it is, it's not exactly street driveable). You essentially have a buggy based off a factory vehicle - it's not really good as a "car" any more and it's not really good as a "buggy"...
I can't speak for others, but my rig is locked front/rear, on 33's, and armored to hell and the front suspension is NOT what determines the vehicle's capability - it's the driver and his unwillingness to bend body panels and crunch glass.
I can't speak for others, but my rig is locked front/rear, on 33's, and armored to hell and the front suspension is NOT what determines the vehicle's capability - it's the driver and his unwillingness to bend body panels and crunch glass.
Last edited by tc; 12-03-2008 at 01:50 PM.
#73
Sponsor
....... but to get to that point, you have almost no body left, certainly no glass, and it's probably not street legal (and if it is, it's not exactly street driveable). You essentially have a buggy based off a factory vehicle - it's not really good as a "car" any more and it's not really good as a "buggy"......
#74
Contributing Member
How does that differ from my statement?
No body left?
CHECK - no doors or fenders practically, bed bobbed significantly, then what's left is wrapped in tube.
Drive on the street?
CHECK - Unles the trailer is paerked on the street, you ever think Marlin has that on pavement?
...and I would be willing to bet that in the hands of an "average or slightly better" driver, not Marlin, that thing would be crumpled into a tin foil ball too.
No body left?
CHECK - no doors or fenders practically, bed bobbed significantly, then what's left is wrapped in tube.
Drive on the street?
CHECK - Unles the trailer is paerked on the street, you ever think Marlin has that on pavement?
...and I would be willing to bet that in the hands of an "average or slightly better" driver, not Marlin, that thing would be crumpled into a tin foil ball too.
#75
#77
..and it is driven on the street. No point in going through the trouble of lighting up the plates if it wasn't. I bet he drove it to the trail. They are in Nor Cal along with the rubicon. That thing isn't even caged!
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