Sputtering issue.
02-19-2022, 03:55 PM
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Sputtering issue.
Hello all,
I've been having a sputtering issue at idle on my '92 22re for about 2 years now. It is really noticeable at idle, and gets annoying because it shakes the whole truck. It doesn't happen until it warms up. I have now replaced almost every vacuum line, cap & rotor, wires, plugs, O2 sensor, thermostat, radiator, idle air control valve, air filter, cleaned fuel injectors, had the valves adjusted, and ran a bunch of fuel system treatment through it. When I rev the engine, it seems to smooth out and stop. All 4 cylinders have about 125 psi of compression. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be? I am at a loss right now.
I've been having a sputtering issue at idle on my '92 22re for about 2 years now. It is really noticeable at idle, and gets annoying because it shakes the whole truck. It doesn't happen until it warms up. I have now replaced almost every vacuum line, cap & rotor, wires, plugs, O2 sensor, thermostat, radiator, idle air control valve, air filter, cleaned fuel injectors, had the valves adjusted, and ran a bunch of fuel system treatment through it. When I rev the engine, it seems to smooth out and stop. All 4 cylinders have about 125 psi of compression. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be? I am at a loss right now.
02-20-2022, 02:18 PM
#2
Registered User
Idle Speed Adjust Screw o-ring? Very common, especially as the truck ages. They get old, brittle, and pieces can break off and get down into the air passages under the screw.
Remember, the Adjust Screw is the smaller one UNDER the large cap screw they use to cover it. The one located on the throttle body next to the TPS, on the top of it, to the left as you look from the radiator back to the firewall. Many people confuse the large cap with the idle adjust screw. It's just a cover for it, NOT the Idle Speed Adjust Screw.
Open th cap screw, and screw the Adjust Screw down until it bottoms out, gently, counting the turns, and parts of turns you need to bottom it out. Once it does, UNscrew it all the way out to check the o-ring.
Replace the o-ring if there's any doubt about it's condition. It's a small o-ring, and readily available in many places. Once you replace it, if you do, coat it with a thin coating of Vaseline, or the silicone dielectric grease. Makes it last a LOT longer, and gives a better seal on it.
Screw it down until it bottoms out again, and unscrew it to about where it was when you started. It's a good starting place. Then, set the idle RPM to about 750-800, with the engine at full operating temp. Make sure to use an external rpm gauge, not the one on the dash, if you have one. They're notoriously inaccurate.
Hope this helps...
Pat☺
Remember, the Adjust Screw is the smaller one UNDER the large cap screw they use to cover it. The one located on the throttle body next to the TPS, on the top of it, to the left as you look from the radiator back to the firewall. Many people confuse the large cap with the idle adjust screw. It's just a cover for it, NOT the Idle Speed Adjust Screw.
Open th cap screw, and screw the Adjust Screw down until it bottoms out, gently, counting the turns, and parts of turns you need to bottom it out. Once it does, UNscrew it all the way out to check the o-ring.
Replace the o-ring if there's any doubt about it's condition. It's a small o-ring, and readily available in many places. Once you replace it, if you do, coat it with a thin coating of Vaseline, or the silicone dielectric grease. Makes it last a LOT longer, and gives a better seal on it.
Screw it down until it bottoms out again, and unscrew it to about where it was when you started. It's a good starting place. Then, set the idle RPM to about 750-800, with the engine at full operating temp. Make sure to use an external rpm gauge, not the one on the dash, if you have one. They're notoriously inaccurate.
Hope this helps...
Pat☺
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