Speedometer drops below zero, always 10mph slow
#21
Registered User
I just finished rebuilding my speedometer and did this. First remove the gauge cluster from the truck. Then undo the plastic tabs to separate the clear plastic front cover from the gauge unit. Use a fork or two spoons to lever the speedo needle off its shaft. Wrap them in masking tape so as not to mar the gauge face. Reset the needle position where you want it and press it down lightly. On mine it shifted when I turned the cluster right side up so I had to set it a few times. When you like it, press it on a little better and reassemble. Be gentle, that base model needle is fragile. The SR5 one is more robust.
#22
Registered User
I swapped my old odometer from my base model to an SR5 cluster. I got the needle off by holding the back circle piece (if you hold that it holds the needle still in position) then I twisted the needle off.
I believe the base model one has a splined sleeve over a smooth shaft. So you can twist both of them off. I think I actually still have that piece somewhere. I can take a picture of it after work if I can find it.
When putting the needle back on I just pushed it back on the shaft and then I removed my other hand off the wheel in the back, and “simulated going full speed” by moving the needle to the highest speed and watching it drop down and see where it lands. It might take two or three tries before it goes to exactly 0 afterwords but the whole process takes about 5 minutes.
Just be careful when you twist the needle on and off you MUST hold the wheel on the back or it stretches the clock spring you see in the picture. I accidentally did that with one of my other cluster and was able to fix it but had to carefully twist the other way and test on the road several times. (just hold the back wheel and you’ll be fine)
Heres a picture with arrows of the little wheel you need to hold
Also if you need any base mode gauge parts I have quite a bit laying around from tinkering around with it.
EDIT: uploaded pictures of the splined sleeve, better picture of the circle piece i was talking about, and a picture of the splined sleeve on the needle.
I believe the base model one has a splined sleeve over a smooth shaft. So you can twist both of them off. I think I actually still have that piece somewhere. I can take a picture of it after work if I can find it.
When putting the needle back on I just pushed it back on the shaft and then I removed my other hand off the wheel in the back, and “simulated going full speed” by moving the needle to the highest speed and watching it drop down and see where it lands. It might take two or three tries before it goes to exactly 0 afterwords but the whole process takes about 5 minutes.
Just be careful when you twist the needle on and off you MUST hold the wheel on the back or it stretches the clock spring you see in the picture. I accidentally did that with one of my other cluster and was able to fix it but had to carefully twist the other way and test on the road several times. (just hold the back wheel and you’ll be fine)
Heres a picture with arrows of the little wheel you need to hold
Also if you need any base mode gauge parts I have quite a bit laying around from tinkering around with it.
EDIT: uploaded pictures of the splined sleeve, better picture of the circle piece i was talking about, and a picture of the splined sleeve on the needle.
Last edited by maxvp01; 02-16-2021 at 03:31 PM.
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dbittle (02-16-2021)
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