dbittle

I did forget the exhaust leaks. Those need fixed so the computer gets good info. Good catch. No huge issue on the fuel pump. I replaced mine, but it’s most probably not making it run bad. Wiring though.... At this point, op has tested the harness and some of the tests failed. Since the ECM has been replaced, I would say look really hard at that harness wire by wire. There is a reason or a few reasons the tests failed.

maxvp01

Have not given up on problem yet, just been busy with work and the holidays.

I plan on going to the muffler shop sometime in January to fix exhaust leaks

I began doing the voltage tests to the ecu again but haven't finished that yet.

This morning I started truck, and it was running ROUGH, about 42 degrees F this morning.

I started it and it was sputtering, and sounded like it was missing badly. When driving to work, the missing would stop when I accelerated harder, it would go smooth then.

Anyways I got to a stop light and the truck just died, it cranks over fine, and there is oil in it. When this happened the truck was almost at operating temp.

When cranking the truck, I did manage to get it to start slightly, but when I went to throttle the gas, the truck started rolling back so I had to hit the brake instead and the truck died. Was not able to get it to even slightly fire up after this.

Did not have a paperclip on me at the time so I couldn’t check for codes.

When I get off work I will have to figure out how to get it home, then start digging in. Was going to test spark and fuel pressure first.

Hoping this problem is related to my rich mixture, truck was running like a top until this morning. I was at 125 miles on my current tank of gas (half full according to gauge).

Going to be in WV next week so when I get back in January is when I’ll be able to really wrench down on the truck. My uncle is also sending me a Snap On MT2500 to see if we can pull any sort of live data from the truck and hopefully narrow this problem down.

maxvp01

possibly solved????

When finding out why my truck mysteriously stalled out this morning, first thing I checked was spark. The spark jumps 1/2 an inch with ease, and it’s a nice blue spark.

Fuel pressure, is at a steady 44psi, and drops instantly due to the check valve in the pump.

Next I wanted to see if timing was correct. I bumped starter until the crank aligned with timing marks:


Then I took off dizzy cap to see where rotor aligned:




Rotor is about 180 out from where it should be. I think the tensioner was DOA, probably from sitting on a shelf for years or something.

EDIT: just got to thinking deeper on this.. I am probably on the wrong stroke :/
I will rotate crank one more turn and see what happens

scope103

Yes, almost certainly the case. You have #1 at the top of the exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke. The engine will not run at all if it's actually out 180°.

maxvp01

I was in fact 180 degrees off on the exhaust stroke. however today I hooked up a compression gauge to #1 and felt the compression stroke, I looked over at the rotor and it is not facing #1 plug. I am 90% sure the timing belt jumped. (double checked again with the screw driver method, same result)




The yellow mark I drew is where the contact point for #1 should be. Also tried to turn rotor to see if end of dizzy sheared off. rotor is nice and tight.

My next step I plan on doing is to line up crank mark to where it should be, then take upper timing cover off to see what’s going on.

Tomorrow’s weather doesn’t look too promising to start tearing anything down, but i might get lucky.

scope103

Well, let's make sure you've got the ignition timing set correctly. (You've checked the valve timing, and I don't really believe that timing belts "jump," but wadda I know?)

Since you've used the "screw driver method" (don't use a screw driver; one slip and you've gouged the piston. Use a wooden chopstick or a plastic straw) to confirm TDC, make sure it matches the mark on the harmonic balancer. There is a rubber annular ring that joins the crank-part to the outer belt-groove part. Some on this forum have reported that the ring failed, allowing the outer part to rotate, so that the mark on the pulley no longer corresponds to where the crank is. If that happens, you need to replace the harmonic balancer.

It kinda looks like you're "way off" on ignition timing. The easiest way to get that far off is when you install the distributor. If you are off by one tooth on the helical gear (and it's easy to do), the ignition timing will be off by about 28°. Follow the FSM http://web.archive.org/web/201212070...13distribu.pdf carefully, and you'll get it right.

But first, what does your timing light say?

maxvp01

Good to know about using a straw or wooden stick. hopefully my piston isn’t marred up.

As for ignition timing, about a month or two ago when I started the thread about my rich condition I had access to a timing light and my ignition timing was set at 10 degrees BTDC, I had since advanced the timing to about 12-14 degrees for it to run better. (if it were off a tooth, it would show it pretty far out wouldn’t it?)

anyways when doing the engine rebuild, I had inspected the harmonic balancer for dry rot, cracking, and separation. It was visually in good shape. (don’t get me wrong, it still could’ve gone bad. truck sat for 9 years, could’ve separating from all the suddenly being used again)

Truck was running pretty darn good besides a rich condition. The morning it was running extremely rough, it sounded like it was missing really hard at low RPM (0-2000) but once it hit 2500 everything smoothed out. Then it stalled at the light and wouldn’t crank back up.

Anyways I will confirm ignition timing, i’ll borrow a timing light from my buddy and get back as soon as possible

EDIT: Wouldn’t one tooth off either direction still be able to run? I have had the distributor off a tooth in my lincoln, and accidentally done it on a SBC and they still run (like crap but still run). Granted they are different brands, but I would think if the toyota was off a tooth it would still at least try to sputter to life

dbittle

I’m confused. If #1 piston is at top dead center, the crank should be there too and the mark will be at zero. If it’s not, it has slipped after the rebuild sometime.

maxvp01

Crank position was off a bit, but it’s directly at 0 now. Unfortunately I won’t be able to work on it today.. rain is just pouring down.

Just going to tear off the upper timing cover to stop beating around the bush. it’s either in time or it’s not. will update once completed

dbittle

That sounds good. Good luck with it and I'm hoping you have more success than I'm having right now with that speedometer rebuild! Since the crank pulley 0 mark doesn't agree with the non-marring soda straw TDC measurement of #1 piston, something is definitely jacked up in there.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

generally, you do not have to use the plastic timing covers that conceal the timing BELT. they are mostly there to keep things "clean", unlike a timing chain, which requires lubrication.

i ran my '95 subaru 2.2L for well over 200K without the two side covers.

maxvp01

Merry Christmas to everyone!

Ok the timing is mechanically correct and lined up. Still baffled at the fact I have a nice blue spark that fires once a second on a plug wire, even gapped the spark at 1/2 an inch and it jumped.

As for fuel.. I took off the big rubber hose infront of throttle body and sprayed carb cleaner for about 2 seconds in it.
Thinking maybe I need to spray carb cleaner directly in spark plug holes..

Timing pictures:





I actually have parts of a non-sr5 cluster if you want it. the speedo needle and click spring in speedo are a little messed up but everything else is good. brand new bulbs in it too.

I thought about drilling two inspection holes where the cam marks line up, but ended up leaving it stock. maybe one day in the future i’ll do it!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Don't like the look of that taped up NE signal wire coming out of the distributor.

maxvp01

When checking scope signals from certain sensors I couldn’t backprobe from the connector because the rubber had dry rotted so bad. So i unwrapped the factory tape to expose the NE splice. I’ll go back and tape it up better.

maxvp01

Got the truck to fire up and sortve run. pulled black intake hose going to throttle body, noticed a puddle of brown fluid. at first I thought it was some carb cleaner from before.

I pulled the throttle plate open with the lever and fuel just kept rolling out. I held it open till it all rolled out. Then I took the black intake hose and the black elbow off and dumped the fuel out of it.



I held the key down when trying to start it (with hose between AFM and TB disconnected) and it fired up, it smoked very bad from tailpipe- assuming that was a bunch of fuel burning off from it being flooded.. but it’s gas.

The cold start injector when tested before checked out. I am now thinking it may have failed. Will test this theory when I am back from WV sometime next week.

dbittle

These look spot on the money, which is good. Now, with these all set at TDC, what does the timing notch on the crank pulley read? If its not zero, then the balancer has failed and needs to be replaced. Again, its not your main problem at this point, but the ignition timing will be tough to dial in with that thing lying to you; and if its started slipping it will only get worse.

I appreciate you offering me an instrument cluster, but its the needle right now that's giving me grief. My truck lived in the desert for 25 years and that thing is SO fragile. I've cracked it twice trying to be careful. There are a couple of donors not too far from here and I will visit them next week.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

i am less familiar with the workings of the 3.0, although i have done a few things to the one in my '88. that said, the CSI might not be the source of your excess fuel. for a 22re, with the CSI already tested and OK, i'd immediately look at the vacuum hose from the FPR to the plenum. is it full of fuel? if so, the diaphragm in the FPR might have failed, allowing that excess fuel into the upper plenum.

scope103

Both the CSI and the FPR are dead simple to check for leaks. Unbolt the CSI and pull out of the plenum (DO NOT remove the fuel line from the injector. If you do that, you MUST replace the two crush washers). You can disconnect the electrical if it makes it easier to get out of the plenum. Disconnect the the vacuum line (not the fuel return line) from the FPR. Get your fire extinguisher out. Jumper FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector, and turn the key to ON. Do you have fuel spraying all over the place? No? You don't have a stuck-open CSI or a leak in the FPR.

[While you're in there, check the routing of the fuel return line. I can't find it right now, but someone on this forum reported having the fuel return line connected to the PCV port. Fuel was dumping directly into the plenum. Similar symptoms to yours.]

maxvp01

CSI itself is not stuck open, passed the B+ Fp Test

Also took vacuum line off FPR- no fuel came out. Also hooked up vacuum gauge and it holds vacuum.

Disconnected fuel return line and blew through it to confirm it was routed correctly.

I think the Cold start time switch may be bad. Unfortunately I have no way of testing this since my friend ended up gluing the connector on to the (very expensive) switch. (he also did all of the injectors too :I but i ended up replacing those and the pigtails.)

I did get the truck to start and run for a while. TONS of smoke coming out. Assuming it’s just burning off the unburnt fuel. I need to make another plug wire because yet AGAIN one of the darn wires broke.. and of course it was the side that already came crimped from the factory on the DIY wires (urgggg)

Anyways does anyone have any ideas of testing the cold start injector that does not require unplugging it? Or does anyone have a known working one and a pigtail for sale?

maxvp01

So i disabled cold start injector electronically by unplugging it. I cleaned the spark plugs, and test drove it.

Last night I stalled two times while driving. It seems to stall when I shift into neutral when slowing down and on the brakes. Also have noticed when I upshift and am between gears the rpms bounce down to 50-100 then bounce to 400-500 until I engage the next gear.

When starting it this morning (rainy about 45 degrees). It fires right up with CSI disabled, idles pretty rough. I started accelerating and it misses pretty bad until I get to about 2000+ RPMs then smooths out until I shift. Then I repeat the process.

Truck feels like it has a slight miss when coasting down the road at a constant RPM too, although that is not nearly as noticeable as starting from a stop. Even when warm it misses slightly when starting from a stop and coasting.

Edit:
What symptoms would a bad distributor on this engine cause?

Or possible a throttle plate a previous owner tried to adjust?