Gevo

I doubt your ECM is the issue.

From what I have read on these forums, it seems like the ECM is very very rarely an issue.

if you can 'borrow' one from a friend or neighbor and try, it can easily eliminate that as the problem.

blueaussie

No don't have anyone to borrow from. Cleaned electrical connections on trans. Didn't help.

I was looking at vacuum diagram and shows only three connections one in far back per schematic show to tie in to the ac advance and back to charcoal emission can but if I do that there is one connection more center to the engine that would half to be blocked. The more I think about this is its a vacuum issue. Brakes just started squealing, now I have to figure something else out, what I don't know. It's eating my lunch.

blueaussie

Can somebody tell me how to post a pic on this forum using iPhone ?

blueaussie

OK, I advanced the timing "I assume 5 degrees" and it is running a lot better, no hesitation I can get up to highway speeds so much easier, it does not seem I am pulling a freight train anymore. Now can someone correct me if I am wrong. Do I need to replace the timing belt?

Gevo

Your shifting problems are fixed?

How many miles has it been since a new timing belt?

combatcarl

I'm probably late to the show, by now. At any point in time, while setting timing, did you install the te1-e1 jumper, same as for pulling codes, but while running? You can't accurately set timing w/o doing that. And, if, when you install the jumper on a running, warmed up engine, and you don't hear a noticeable drop in engine rpm, you have a TPS adjustment issue. Which, with an auto, 3.0, is going to cause some running issues. Hope I didn't just completely confuse you with all this.

blueaussie

Gevo & Combatcarl, I was following another post on here and he was having the same problems as myself. While reading it they were talking about it jumping time. So thought this could be part of my problem so I advanced it about 5 degrees and it came back to life and I could easily reach highway speeds and above, the sluggish was gone it became very more responsive ect. The kicker is and yes this deflated my balloon, I did do it in the bypass mode. Now I am really worried because I thought that I had found my problem , " jumped time" which would be covered under my remanufactured engine company, now I just don't know what's what's, I would appreciate any feedback thanks. Oh Combatcarl checked there were no codes , thankd

blueaussie

Combatcarl, I did'nt have it in bypass mode with jumper yesterday but to day I did adjust with jumper and advanced the timing to the end of the plastic marker. You raised something that if you could expand on I would appreciate it. You mentioned that if jumper wire is installed while engine is running the rpm should change, am I understanding this correctly? The reason I ask is because I hooked the jumper with engine off but very well warmed up. After advancing the timing it runs so much better! Easily to get to highway speeds, no hesitation, doesn't feel like I'm pulling a freight train behind me. This is realistically a newly remanufactured engine that has about 8,000 miles on it. So I am insure what to do. The warranty will run out August 2015. I appreciate any feed back you have to offer. Thank you both very much!

RJR

Make sure you catch everything that Combatcarl said. Not only do you have to have the jumper in place between TE1 and E1, but the TPS idle switch must be closed for the timing to be stable at 10 deg BTDC. If your TPS is slightly out of adjustment or the switch is defective and stays open, jumpering TE1 and E1 will have no effect, because the ECU won't know you're at idle, and it will continue to mess around with the timing advance. That's what Combatcarl was referring to when he said check for a noticeable rpm drop when you insert the jumper. If you don't get the rpm drop, it means the switch isn't closed and you can't reliably set the timing, even though the CEL is blinking like it should. Unfortunately, that info is not in the FSM as far as I can tell.

(ed: sorry, I wrote this without looking at your last post, so it may be a bit out of sequence, but still applicable, I think.)

blueaussie

RJR, thanks for responding, I know what you are talking about TPS it's on the side of the throttle body, I think. Unfortunately my laptop crashed on me and I has the FSM loaded on the hard drive. I am unsure of how to make sure TPS is closed. I did read about continuity and ohmimg, put the throttle body but at both settings it showed continuity but the cheasy chilton book I have said at specific gauge between throttle stop there should be no continuity . But I probably am way off base here. I appreciate all of your help!
Sincerely, craig

blueaussie

RJR it's hard working with a iPhone. Just when I need my lPtop the most in craters on me .

RJR

Just check for continuity when the throttle is closed, and for open circuit as soon as you start to open it. The exact clearance at which the switch goes from open to closed isn't terribly important for setting the timing, just that it does close (show continuity) at idle, and that it opens as soon as you get on the throttle.

blueaussie

Oh man thanks RJR that makes sense to my slow brain. When I was checking the TPS last time it did show continuity but I will double check and make sure it is closed when I regime. It did raise the RPM 'a when I advanced it this moring, I took it too the edge of the plastic marker closet to the crank. I was afraid to advance any further and start seeing my exhaust start to tut red. Based on my DA could this thing could have jumped timing because RJR it is runnig so sand good right now, thank you so much for your advice. I appreciate it more than I can describe!

RJR

Where in Texas do you live? Reason I ask is that if you're up in the panhandle where the elevation is about 3-4000 feet, a bit of advanced timing often helps.

You probably still need to check out your TPS more thoroughly. I'm not familiar with how it interacts with an automatic transmission, so that could be part of your issues as well. There is a sticky link at the top of this forum which links to the '93FSM. Not totally correct for your vehicle, but probably will help. Also, if you want more theory about how this stuff works, check out the autoshop101 articles at http://www.autoshop101.com/techartic...larticles.html. Go down to the OBD (not OBD II) section for the most relevant articles. It'll take you a while to wade through it all, but there's a lot of good ("how it works behind the scenes") info there.

blueaussie

Thanks RJR, I am down in Houston, just west of the armpit of Texas, lol, thanks for the info, I will poor over it.
Thanks again!

RJR

Autoshop101 also has some good info on diagnosing the automatic transmission. Just go down a few sections on the home page.

If nothing else, there's enough reading material there to keep you entertained so you won't feel a need to drive your truck!:-)

blueaussie

Yes I have been limiting the use of my Toyota till I get the problem solved. I don't want to damage this remanufactured motor,
Thanks again, I am going to have to get my. Im going to have to get my computer fixed! I can't read on a 4 " screen, lol

Gevo

An easy way to know if your TPS is set correctly, or atleast it is reading IDLE when checking timing with TE1 and E1 jumped, just look at the check engine light. If it is not blinking then you are in IDL, if it is blinking find the code, there is a code for open in IDL circuit.

Just a way to confirm your TPS is properly adjusted.

blueaussie

Gevo my friend, it was flashing, however I noticed the OD light flashed as well, Is this cool. Mann Gevo it is running soooo much better could this freshly recon. Engine slipped a notch or two. I know back in the days they were chains I'm not sure what they make them out of now. Hey Gevo what year and make/engine have you got. I am trying to solve for a extra vacuum line that comes out of my throttle body. The diaphragm shows just 3 I have 4. Also I moticed Gevo tha the a/c advance boot does not move when turning on the a/c. Just trying to cover all my bases before I go to the reputable shop that put the motor in and try to see if I have a solid warranty issue . This engine is warranted till August 2015. Thanks Gevo and everybody on here , all of you ROCK!

Gevo

The OD light flashing is normal.

I made a mistake earlier, I meant ot say if the check engine light is blinking regulrarly as if there are no codes, not that it is NOT blinking. So, if it is flashing a little more than once per second, then you are in IDL on the TPS, so it's good.

I have a 1991 3vze engine, I also had mine rebuilt and thereafter set on a journey of solving one problem after another. Take a picture of where the vacuum hose is coming out of and we will try to help find it's place.