So what sort of axles should I be looking at for 400whp
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I drive a 2JZ with turbo and intercooler. Around 350hp and on the road for 2 years now.
I broke attleast 1 diff a year with only a 100hp diesel, some 12-14 total I guess. They all broke due to shock load and torque, not hp.
Since I've swapped the rear for a 9,5 LC axle with locker incl. 4.88 Reider racing gears and the front to a LC hp type (when I did the engine swap) I never had a faillure. That LC rear seems to be indestructable, even with my welding for centering the diff. If I ever need to do a similar swap I would definately go that route again.
I broke attleast 1 diff a year with only a 100hp diesel, some 12-14 total I guess. They all broke due to shock load and torque, not hp.
Since I've swapped the rear for a 9,5 LC axle with locker incl. 4.88 Reider racing gears and the front to a LC hp type (when I did the engine swap) I never had a faillure. That LC rear seems to be indestructable, even with my welding for centering the diff. If I ever need to do a similar swap I would definately go that route again.
#27
I drive a 2JZ with turbo and intercooler. Around 350hp and on the road for 2 years now.
I broke attleast 1 diff a year with only a 100hp diesel, some 12-14 total I guess. They all broke due to shock load and torque, not hp.
Since I've swapped the rear for a 9,5 LC axle with locker incl. 4.88 Reider racing gears and the front to a LC hp type (when I did the engine swap) I never had a faillure. That LC rear seems to be indestructable, even with my welding for centering the diff. If I ever need to do a similar swap I would definately go that route again.
I broke attleast 1 diff a year with only a 100hp diesel, some 12-14 total I guess. They all broke due to shock load and torque, not hp.
Since I've swapped the rear for a 9,5 LC axle with locker incl. 4.88 Reider racing gears and the front to a LC hp type (when I did the engine swap) I never had a faillure. That LC rear seems to be indestructable, even with my welding for centering the diff. If I ever need to do a similar swap I would definately go that route again.
Do you know what years/models are suitable, because I can't find that either.
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I read somewhere that the landcruiser 9.5 was actually weaker than an 8in and that there arent a lot of gearing choices with them too!! But I could be wrong!
I would do a 9in in the back, for the front, there is no way to beef it up really!
I would do a 9in in the back, for the front, there is no way to beef it up really!
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Just luck I guess. Wasn't looking for it.
I can't believe this is weaker than an 8 ". I don't see the point in toyota makeing larger diffs to gain more strenght and than using cheaper materials to cut costs and end up with an inferior diff. Or something similar.
I did a writeup here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...le-swap-59132/
I can't believe this is weaker than an 8 ". I don't see the point in toyota makeing larger diffs to gain more strenght and than using cheaper materials to cut costs and end up with an inferior diff. Or something similar.
I did a writeup here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...le-swap-59132/
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I sure am. Corey's making me a fiberglas bed, I'm going to see if I can get him to make the bed with a 3" flare on it, and buy a matching set of flared front fenders from him.
The D60, and 14bolt are just over 8" wider than toy axles, so with 3" wider fenders on each side, that should cover most of the extra width. The extra inch I may either play around with the wheel offet to compensate, or leave it sticking out.
At any rate, I think it's going to look damn good. At teh very least, it's going to be unique.
The D60, and 14bolt are just over 8" wider than toy axles, so with 3" wider fenders on each side, that should cover most of the extra width. The extra inch I may either play around with the wheel offet to compensate, or leave it sticking out.
At any rate, I think it's going to look damn good. At teh very least, it's going to be unique.
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