So let's get into it
#121
Registered User
I'm running those cams too. You need to advance your timing a LOT to get the most out of them. Pretty much as far as it will go w/o jumping to the next tooth. If I remember right that's like 25-30° (I haven't run the truck in 5yrs.)
Get it running good, no leaks, no bad sensors. Loosen the clamp and rotate the distributor until the idle maxes out. Back off a smidge. Reset your idle screw.
My motor is built, high comp, ceramic, headers & 2.5" exhaust, oversize valves, ported and polished, cams, etc. (I'm sure there's stuff I've forgotten.) It's pretty decent for a 3vze, but still no powerhouse. It comes alive around 2500rpm and builds power to redline. These cams love high revs
Be careful on fuel, I burned a hole in 2 pistons pulling a trailer over the mountains after getting a crappy fuel fill.
Get it running good, no leaks, no bad sensors. Loosen the clamp and rotate the distributor until the idle maxes out. Back off a smidge. Reset your idle screw.
My motor is built, high comp, ceramic, headers & 2.5" exhaust, oversize valves, ported and polished, cams, etc. (I'm sure there's stuff I've forgotten.) It's pretty decent for a 3vze, but still no powerhouse. It comes alive around 2500rpm and builds power to redline. These cams love high revs
Be careful on fuel, I burned a hole in 2 pistons pulling a trailer over the mountains after getting a crappy fuel fill.
Last edited by MonsterMaxx; 12-30-2016 at 09:07 AM.
#122
I ended up around 16-18 degrees. I had pushed it well into the low 20s at one point running 92 octane but I felt like I was pushing my luck. At 16-18 degrees the truck has no problem handling regular octane and has a wider power band then stock. As MosterMaxx said its no SBC and power really doesn't come on strong until 2200-2500 rpms. The cams do pull much better above 4000 rpms where the stock valve train would just die off. Over all I would recommend them for a upgrade however you will need to factor in the cost of shims at $7-$11 per shim for 12.
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