this is so depressing...
02-23-2010, 04:02 PM
#121
>>>*Hello. Been awhile since I got in here, I can't get this site open down at my ranch due to d..i..a..ll....up....Lord I miss DSL. I just left my shop, spent the day double checking products.
K..Gaskets, yep, we see one failed once in awhile. My records show that last year we shipped 1190 sets. We see 8 concerns, those are the ones we hear about and I log each and every one of them. Might be a few more, I can't help anyone I don't hear from.
Now most turn out to be upsets, clamping force, tuneup errors, all the usual. Of course no one ever makes mistakes, me either (I blame those on my son Tod) The truth is that defects we find right out of the box and don't install them. Gaskets don't typically fail due to the gaskets, no matter what brand you are using.
Same deal with bearings. My logs show just two cases of "no fit" and one gentleman claimed TWICE?? OK, but funny, way over 1000 sets sold last year, just fine. KING bearings are the very BEST on this planet, made in Isreal. Ask any NASCAR engine builder.
A few failures, sure. Those turn out to be dirt or metal or something wasn't sized properly, bolt wasn't tight, rod cap reversed, on and on.. You folks might be amazed at how much silicone and RTV we dig out of oil galleys.
With proper fit and proper oiling there is almost zero friction. Every "brand" in the world will work when all is correct, get some friction in there and failure is very quick.
As far as the Rock head gasket goes, go check one side by side with the ones made for many Japanese OEM. Or ACL, and several other "brands". The sources are something I happen to know for a fact, I have been in the plant and watched them made.
I like Rock products brand, they give me the best service and the lowest defect rate by far, and I have a shade over 45 years invested in this industry so I happen to know a good product when I see it. Rock products is not a manufacturer, they are a brand that packages kits from products all over the world, just like every other brand.
Manufacturers make products, label them, change the label and keep right on going. Very often one part is claimed to be "superior" to the other, yet only the box is different.
Product brands are personal choice, I don't mind at all if someone else sells something because we can't put items in boxes much faster than we are already. In case of a defect, let me know and I will fix it. .*Other than that, we just keep on doing the best we can I guess. It bothers me when people have troubles, I want to help. Sometimes I don't get to, that is even worse. ...*EB
K..Gaskets, yep, we see one failed once in awhile. My records show that last year we shipped 1190 sets. We see 8 concerns, those are the ones we hear about and I log each and every one of them. Might be a few more, I can't help anyone I don't hear from.
Now most turn out to be upsets, clamping force, tuneup errors, all the usual. Of course no one ever makes mistakes, me either (I blame those on my son Tod) The truth is that defects we find right out of the box and don't install them. Gaskets don't typically fail due to the gaskets, no matter what brand you are using.
Same deal with bearings. My logs show just two cases of "no fit" and one gentleman claimed TWICE?? OK, but funny, way over 1000 sets sold last year, just fine. KING bearings are the very BEST on this planet, made in Isreal. Ask any NASCAR engine builder.
A few failures, sure. Those turn out to be dirt or metal or something wasn't sized properly, bolt wasn't tight, rod cap reversed, on and on.. You folks might be amazed at how much silicone and RTV we dig out of oil galleys.
With proper fit and proper oiling there is almost zero friction. Every "brand" in the world will work when all is correct, get some friction in there and failure is very quick.
As far as the Rock head gasket goes, go check one side by side with the ones made for many Japanese OEM. Or ACL, and several other "brands". The sources are something I happen to know for a fact, I have been in the plant and watched them made.
I like Rock products brand, they give me the best service and the lowest defect rate by far, and I have a shade over 45 years invested in this industry so I happen to know a good product when I see it. Rock products is not a manufacturer, they are a brand that packages kits from products all over the world, just like every other brand.
Manufacturers make products, label them, change the label and keep right on going. Very often one part is claimed to be "superior" to the other, yet only the box is different.
Product brands are personal choice, I don't mind at all if someone else sells something because we can't put items in boxes much faster than we are already. In case of a defect, let me know and I will fix it. .*Other than that, we just keep on doing the best we can I guess. It bothers me when people have troubles, I want to help. Sometimes I don't get to, that is even worse. ...*EB
02-23-2010, 05:01 PM
#122
Registered User
02-23-2010, 05:30 PM
#124
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
ummm, this was a long time ago guys, lol
I retorqued the head shortly after the leak started, and it hasn't leaked a drop since, just FYI
EB, I still stand behind your products 100%, and continue to reffer people to you for their 22re rebuilding needs.
I retorqued the head shortly after the leak started, and it hasn't leaked a drop since, just FYI
EB, I still stand behind your products 100%, and continue to reffer people to you for their 22re rebuilding needs.
02-23-2010, 08:23 PM
#129
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02-28-2010, 10:10 PM
#130
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I wanted to make something clear. I am very happy overall with Engnbldr and his products. Ted is a great guy with lots of knowledge, and always willing to help.
Also, as a whole, Rock Products seem to be quality and get the job done.
While the head gaskets due have a design that seems to lend itself to requiring a little extra torque, or maybe just a "cleaner" torque then the OEM gaskets require to get a proper seal, they still seem like an overall functional gasket.
In any case, I wanted to make sure there was no misunderstanding of what I was saying in my previous posts. Ted is a great guy, and I will always recommend him and his products overall.
Keep up the good work Ted, you are an asset to the Toyota world.
Also, as a whole, Rock Products seem to be quality and get the job done.
While the head gaskets due have a design that seems to lend itself to requiring a little extra torque, or maybe just a "cleaner" torque then the OEM gaskets require to get a proper seal, they still seem like an overall functional gasket.
In any case, I wanted to make sure there was no misunderstanding of what I was saying in my previous posts. Ted is a great guy, and I will always recommend him and his products overall.
Keep up the good work Ted, you are an asset to the Toyota world.
11-29-2012, 04:30 PM
#131
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Since someone already revived this old thread almost 3 years ago, I think it's overdue for a 
I recently noticed a leak, which looks dead on like what Bleeder had going on - I started a thread today about it, and 92TOY directed me to this thread - so glad he did.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52006320
Bleeder - if you're still reading these....did that re-torquing keep the coolant at bay? I think you evenutally upgraded to a 3.4 didn't you? Anyway, mine is stock, original, with 275K miles on it (as far as I know - I haven't had the head off i the 75K miles I've driven it in the last 10 years).
Is re-torquing as simple as it sounds:
1) Break free each of the head bolts with the valve cover off (just broken free, not loosened several turns)
2) Re-torque to 58 ft/lbs, using the sequence in the FSM
3) Torque again without first breaking loose, after 100-500 miles
?
I recently noticed a leak, which looks dead on like what Bleeder had going on - I started a thread today about it, and 92TOY directed me to this thread - so glad he did.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52006320
Bleeder - if you're still reading these....did that re-torquing keep the coolant at bay? I think you evenutally upgraded to a 3.4 didn't you? Anyway, mine is stock, original, with 275K miles on it (as far as I know - I haven't had the head off i the 75K miles I've driven it in the last 10 years).
Is re-torquing as simple as it sounds:
1) Break free each of the head bolts with the valve cover off (just broken free, not loosened several turns)
2) Re-torque to 58 ft/lbs, using the sequence in the FSM
3) Torque again without first breaking loose, after 100-500 miles
?
