Slamming door on 4Runner triggers unknown relay
06-09-2017, 10:32 PM
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Slamming door on 4Runner triggers unknown relay
Righto folks,
As usual down here in Australia i seem to get all the weird 4Runner troubles!
When i go over bumps, corrugations etc i hear a relay click under the dash. Then i figured out even if i slam the door i hear the relay click under the dash.
So i dropped the dash, went upside down under it and slammed the door until i found the symptomatic relay. It is attached to the firewall above the pedals and says 'Fuel Pump Relay' on it and has 5 pins on the bottom.
I have a 22R in my 4Runner, with no electric fuel pump. Is this relay a left over the factory giving them the option to put a 22RE in or is it actually used on the 22R models for something else, maybe an electric choke?
I run a 38 weber in mine, and i removed the relay and it seems to make no difference to the engine running, lights, indicators, accessories etc.
That being said, i have to find out why the door slamming makes the relay fire, in case there is a bunch of wires somewhere chaffing or something. I hope that if someone on here knows the relay i am talking about, i can trace the trigger to the relay for faults.
Thanks!
As usual down here in Australia i seem to get all the weird 4Runner troubles!
When i go over bumps, corrugations etc i hear a relay click under the dash. Then i figured out even if i slam the door i hear the relay click under the dash.
So i dropped the dash, went upside down under it and slammed the door until i found the symptomatic relay. It is attached to the firewall above the pedals and says 'Fuel Pump Relay' on it and has 5 pins on the bottom.
I have a 22R in my 4Runner, with no electric fuel pump. Is this relay a left over the factory giving them the option to put a 22RE in or is it actually used on the 22R models for something else, maybe an electric choke?
I run a 38 weber in mine, and i removed the relay and it seems to make no difference to the engine running, lights, indicators, accessories etc.
That being said, i have to find out why the door slamming makes the relay fire, in case there is a bunch of wires somewhere chaffing or something. I hope that if someone on here knows the relay i am talking about, i can trace the trigger to the relay for faults.
Thanks!
06-10-2017, 12:58 AM
#2
Being your down under your 4Runner and the ones for the USA market might only share a few things in common .
Unless yours was imported to Australia from the USA !!
I have never seen any relay in the older 4Runners labeled fuel pump relay .
Was it loose at all in the socket when you removed it ??
Loose connection in the pins or the coil of the relay causing it to energize and drop out as it get bounced around .
As having it removed seems to not effect operation I might just leave it out.
Without a Schematic for your 4Runner it is pretty hard to chase down unknown circuits .
You can never tell when people replace things with something that looks close .
Anything electrical that has never worked??
Unless yours was imported to Australia from the USA !!
I have never seen any relay in the older 4Runners labeled fuel pump relay .
Was it loose at all in the socket when you removed it ??
Loose connection in the pins or the coil of the relay causing it to energize and drop out as it get bounced around .
As having it removed seems to not effect operation I might just leave it out.
Without a Schematic for your 4Runner it is pretty hard to chase down unknown circuits .
You can never tell when people replace things with something that looks close .
Anything electrical that has never worked??
06-10-2017, 02:23 AM
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The relay has only started coming off and on in the last couple of trips out. At first i actually thought it was my battery isolator (VSR).
Yeah, i tapped the relay and wiggled wires trying to replicate the on/off but to no avail. Only large vibrations i assume somewhere in the dash seem to cause it...
I did have a bunch of gauge lights not working since i bought the vehicle. I pulled the dash out and found someone had removed all the globes! Put some globes in it and it has worked fine... but the noise possibly has started since then - don't know if it is a coincidence or not. But all the gauge lights work with the erroneous relay unplugged.
I will leave it unplugged if i dont need it - i just would like to know if some other wires are chaffing or corroded or whatever.
NB. I just got back from the shed assembling my 22R rebuild! Painted in 'Grabber Green' (Lime).
However one of my crank thrust washers sticks out a bit more than the other. Looking from the bottom of the engine (engine stand) one of the bottom thrust washers (closest too me) is seated right inside the little groove on the middle main bearing cap but the other has a little gap where the 'tab' sits inside the square cutout on the main cap. (Hope this makes sense). I checked before i put it in and the thrust washer is indeed correctly inside the arch shaped groove, but the central square tab has a bout a 1mm gap between it and the cap. I can take a piccy, just not sure if this is somewhat normal/insignificant. I have heard of thrust washer falling out into the oil pan and the engine still runs fine, so maybe this is not a big deal?
Yeah, i tapped the relay and wiggled wires trying to replicate the on/off but to no avail. Only large vibrations i assume somewhere in the dash seem to cause it...
I did have a bunch of gauge lights not working since i bought the vehicle. I pulled the dash out and found someone had removed all the globes! Put some globes in it and it has worked fine... but the noise possibly has started since then - don't know if it is a coincidence or not. But all the gauge lights work with the erroneous relay unplugged.
I will leave it unplugged if i dont need it - i just would like to know if some other wires are chaffing or corroded or whatever.
NB. I just got back from the shed assembling my 22R rebuild!
Painted in 'Grabber Green' (Lime).However one of my crank thrust washers sticks out a bit more than the other. Looking from the bottom of the engine (engine stand) one of the bottom thrust washers (closest too me) is seated right inside the little groove on the middle main bearing cap but the other has a little gap where the 'tab' sits inside the square cutout on the main cap. (Hope this makes sense). I checked before i put it in and the thrust washer is indeed correctly inside the arch shaped groove, but the central square tab has a bout a 1mm gap between it and the cap. I can take a piccy, just not sure if this is somewhat normal/insignificant. I have heard of thrust washer falling out into the oil pan and the engine still runs fine, so maybe this is not a big deal?
06-10-2017, 02:30 AM
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I found this on yotatech, the front thrust washer seems to stick out farther than the rear on his too:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...bf7235381f.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...bf7235381f.jpg
06-10-2017, 07:58 AM
#6
. It is attached to the firewall above the pedals and says 'Fuel Pump Relay' on it and has 5 pins on the bottom.)
On 22RE the circuit opening relay - powers the fuel pump when there is airflow- is in that location.
Could be wires shorting, contacts coming loose, or defective relay.
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06-10-2017, 08:53 AM
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The EFI relay (for instance) is a very generic 5-pin relay. I've heard (here) that some generic 5-pin relays (SPDT) in our trucks were just labelled "Fuel Pump Relay", even though they had nothing to do with fuel. So your relay probably does something (I'm guessing having to do with power locks or windows, and the loose wire or switch is in the door somewhere), but it's not really a Fuel Pump Relay.
Fun fact: The Three Mile Island nuclear plant melt-down was caused by a stuck-open Pilot Operated Relief Valve. What caused that? The control panels have hundreds of generic relays of the same type. At some point before March 28, 1979, a relay somewhere in the panel was replaced -- and whoever did it, didn't have the spare with him. So he pulled a relay out of the PORV panel and used that. What chance was there that the PORV would be called for in the few minutes (hours, days, weeks) it would take me to get a relay from stock? So when TMI had a turbine-trip, the missing relay caused the PORV to beat itself to death and fail open. And history was made ...
Fun fact: The Three Mile Island nuclear plant melt-down was caused by a stuck-open Pilot Operated Relief Valve. What caused that? The control panels have hundreds of generic relays of the same type. At some point before March 28, 1979, a relay somewhere in the panel was replaced -- and whoever did it, didn't have the spare with him. So he pulled a relay out of the PORV panel and used that. What chance was there that the PORV would be called for in the few minutes (hours, days, weeks) it would take me to get a relay from stock? So when TMI had a turbine-trip, the missing relay caused the PORV to beat itself to death and fail open. And history was made ...
06-11-2017, 01:43 AM
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I see what your saying about the wiring going to the door. But i think the only wiring going to my doors is a speaker. I don't have electric windows or anything. Anything else run wiring into the doors?
Maybe the little switch that lets you know the door is open, which lights up the key light and the tone if you have your headlights on...?
