Shutdown
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Shutdown
Had the top end rebuild on my 3.0 some 2500 miles ago. Things have been going well.
yesterday I drove across town. Parked. Did some stuff come out 10 min later and it starts up ... runs for 2-3 seconds sputters and dies. Repeat a second time.
I fire up and gas the hell out of it. Stays on and runs well. Next three fire ups all is good.
not sure what happened with that funny moment. Any ideas on what’s coming. Do fuel pumps fail in time ? Pretty sure mine is original. One of the few things that is ( other than ball joints , what the hell is in those things 🤘
yesterday I drove across town. Parked. Did some stuff come out 10 min later and it starts up ... runs for 2-3 seconds sputters and dies. Repeat a second time.
I fire up and gas the hell out of it. Stays on and runs well. Next three fire ups all is good.
not sure what happened with that funny moment. Any ideas on what’s coming. Do fuel pumps fail in time ? Pretty sure mine is original. One of the few things that is ( other than ball joints , what the hell is in those things 🤘
#2
Registered User
Quick test, next time it won't start/run. Put a jumper into B+ and Fp contacts in the little test connector box beside the fuse box in the engine compartment. If it starts up and runs normally, the fuel pump is fine. If it doesn't, then you have a bad fuel pump OR the associated wiring. My 4Runner still has the factory fuel pump in it, and it still runs strong. These fuel pumps are pretty sturdy.
If the fuel pump is good, then you have a problem in either the AFM, or the COR. You can easily test the AFM. It just has a switch that is open when the vane is closed, and closes as soon as the AFM's vane opens, even slightly. This switch provides power to energize the COR, which holds the fuel pump running, until the truck stops running. It's a safety feature, so if there's an accident, and a fuel line breaks, the pump isn't running any longer, pumping fuel out out all over the pace. Deadly dangerous, not only for you, but any good Samaritans or first responders.
Anywho, if the switch in the AFM is good, well, that leaves the COR. OR wiring.
Naturally, if all of that good stuff is functioning normally, it's time to start checking fuel pressure, volume, the Cold Start Injector, it's timing switch, injectors, and so forth.
DO NOT run the truck anywhere with the jumper in. If there's an accident, you'll be pumping fuel all over the place. Deadly dangerous.
Only use it for testing purposes. Or porpoises. Something like that...
Let us know what you find out!
Pat☺
If the fuel pump is good, then you have a problem in either the AFM, or the COR. You can easily test the AFM. It just has a switch that is open when the vane is closed, and closes as soon as the AFM's vane opens, even slightly. This switch provides power to energize the COR, which holds the fuel pump running, until the truck stops running. It's a safety feature, so if there's an accident, and a fuel line breaks, the pump isn't running any longer, pumping fuel out out all over the pace. Deadly dangerous, not only for you, but any good Samaritans or first responders.
Anywho, if the switch in the AFM is good, well, that leaves the COR. OR wiring.
Naturally, if all of that good stuff is functioning normally, it's time to start checking fuel pressure, volume, the Cold Start Injector, it's timing switch, injectors, and so forth.
DO NOT run the truck anywhere with the jumper in. If there's an accident, you'll be pumping fuel all over the place. Deadly dangerous.
Only use it for testing purposes. Or porpoises. Something like that...
Let us know what you find out!
Pat☺
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Melrose 4r (01-25-2021)
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well it looks like it’s the fuel pump after all. So I’m gonna replace it. Denso 950-0100. This should include the little screen replacement inside the tank as well. So my next question is what else needs to be replaced when I do this job ?
I read many do a gasket as well. May we that goes between the tank but I cannot figure the part number.
Anything else ? I have read many take the bed off and others drop the tank. Not sure on my route yet.
I read many do a gasket as well. May we that goes between the tank but I cannot figure the part number.
Anything else ? I have read many take the bed off and others drop the tank. Not sure on my route yet.
#4
Registered User
Great explanation!
(i always say “porpoises” too, lol)
(i always say “porpoises” too, lol)
#5
Registered User
As far as it goes, just replacing the pump, and the gasket that goes under the plate where the fuel pump plumbing, and electrics, enters/exits the tank is quite adequate. Check the plumbing, the metal tubes coming out of the tank, for rust where the tubes enter/exit the tank. Through that plate that everything is mounted to. They tend to rust right at the plate, and often where the pipes take the 90° bend. Make sure paint isn't hiding any rust.
If the pipes rust, it can let air into the system, and/or fuel out. Very dangerous.
I found this gasket. for the fuel pump hanger. The "official" name of the plate, and the pipes through it, that the fuel pump mounts to. Hope that helps a little.
I've never done this on the pickup, but I wager it's easier to drop the tank, than to pull the bed, but I may well be wrong on that.
Having said all that, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Might be a good time to consider it. Remember when you do, to use new crush washers. Never, ever, reuse crush washers.
Get extras. Invariably, those nasty little critters will leap, yes LEAP, out of your hand during installation, drop under the truck, and vanish. It never fails. Especially if you just have what you need for the job. Malicious little crush washers...
Hope this is a small help.
Pat☺
If the pipes rust, it can let air into the system, and/or fuel out. Very dangerous.
I found this gasket. for the fuel pump hanger. The "official" name of the plate, and the pipes through it, that the fuel pump mounts to. Hope that helps a little.
I've never done this on the pickup, but I wager it's easier to drop the tank, than to pull the bed, but I may well be wrong on that.
Having said all that, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Might be a good time to consider it. Remember when you do, to use new crush washers. Never, ever, reuse crush washers.
Get extras. Invariably, those nasty little critters will leap, yes LEAP, out of your hand during installation, drop under the truck, and vanish. It never fails. Especially if you just have what you need for the job. Malicious little crush washers...
Hope this is a small help.
Pat☺
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
I did the fuel filter about 3000 miles ago. Before the rebuild. I actually was flying right after that and new spark plugs. Shortly after the headgasket went. :/.
the link for the gasket you provided I dont think works. Takes me to generic parts geek page.
but your saying the gasket between the metal plumbing and the tank ?
the link for the gasket you provided I dont think works. Takes me to generic parts geek page.
but your saying the gasket between the metal plumbing and the tank ?
#7
Registered User
The link I gave had the gasket on it. Try scrolling down a ways? If not, I'll try again to get it right.
The gasket you need is between what Toyota calls the Fuel pump hanger and the tank. The fuel pump hanger is the metal disk that has the pipes coming out of it, and the fuel pump mounted in it. You pull the disk out, clean off the old gasket materiel from the disk and tank, remove and replace the fuel pump in it, and then slide the whole thing back in, with a new gasket between the metal disk and the tank top, and screw it down onto the top of the tank.
Here's a picture of where that link I posted takes you. Like I said, try scrolling down a little.
Does that help?
Pat☺
The gasket you need is between what Toyota calls the Fuel pump hanger and the tank. The fuel pump hanger is the metal disk that has the pipes coming out of it, and the fuel pump mounted in it. You pull the disk out, clean off the old gasket materiel from the disk and tank, remove and replace the fuel pump in it, and then slide the whole thing back in, with a new gasket between the metal disk and the tank top, and screw it down onto the top of the tank.
Here's a picture of where that link I posted takes you. Like I said, try scrolling down a little.
Does that help?
Pat☺
Last edited by 2ToyGuy; 01-26-2021 at 11:55 AM.
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. I will prob just get it from Toyota since it’s only a couple bucks. Once my new pump gets here I’ll report back on any issues. Thanks again.
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