n4ynu1010

ROFL , For the LOVE of PETE ..............thankyou for clarifying that for me and no I have not done a Yota Pump on my 3.0 yet so now I know , Thanks
I was so confused , this steak to rice diet change is hard on a old guy

n4ynu1010

Yeah you can drive just don't stop hehe (Kid's don't try this at home)

n4ynu1010

Thankyou Master , I am but a old GM wrench turning motorhead trying to help out the mass's and rely upon you weathered rice burning pro's to keep me straight
Also learning about this truck also as it is the first one I have ever owned (Yota Trk that is , rice diet) .

Willcipher

Yes, the dummy water pump on the V6's has prolly confused many seasoned mechanics. You can't find something that weird on a domestic to my knowledge. It's the little things. Like the reverse rotation crankshaft on Hondas. I remember a guy snapping of the end of the crank on an Civic because he used a socket and a breaker bar wedged into the front suspension while he hit the starter to loosen the crank bolt. That works great on a Yota; no so good for a motor that turns counterclockwise though

kylextrisler

hahah at all your guys' post
i have a 93 3vze
i already contacted mtsumedi about his and it looks like thats gonna work
and i get what your saying about the dealership piece, i didnt think that the part deals w/ the timing belt?? i hope not cuz thats more stuff to worry about on the install haha
and i've heard aobut the place in rancho cordova
im gonna keep that number but i think im gonna be ok w/o them this time around
ill def. hit that place up soon tho
thanks for the help
sounds like this $1011 project is gonna come in at under $100 with belts

try and stiff a yotatech member

n4ynu1010

Does that mean since you are saving so much we all get a share of the savings ............................
ROFLOL

kylextrisler

hahah yea, we all get to use that money to chip in for groceries, gas and maybe even begin to build up the sas process!
hey tonight drinks on me, so grab a brew from the fridge and congradulate yourselves on a job well done!

n4ynu1010

HEHEHE

kylextrisler

Follow up
im getting close
i can almost taste it
unfortunately i have the stud bolts in the way
i read that the easiest way is to put the nut on and pry up, but the metal is old and kinda just bends the nut
and the other one....
just have a look ;-)





is there an easy way to remove these? and how the hell do i put them back on!

Willcipher

Dude, that's looking ugly already. You should've double-nutted the studs and backed them out. You basically tighten one nut against another in the middle of the stud, then loosen the stud using the bottom nut while applying tension to the top nut. Check this link for clarity-



You can still double-nut the stud that's intact, but the broken one will need attention from a sturdy pair of well placed vice-grips. A little love from Mr. propane torch always helps too.

kylextrisler

will it work even tho the thread doesnt reach the bottom??

Willcipher

Yes it will work fine. The point is to force one nut against the other; effectively locking the nuts to the stud. Where they're positioned on the stud is irrelevant, as long as both nuts are on the threaded portion of the stud

kylextrisler

thanks for the info! ill be able to try tomorrow i guess, will this work w/ the opposite way as for putting it back in?
im gonna have to figure out how to get the other one out too
but thanks for the help
i should have my baby running by this weekend!

Willcipher

Correct. It works the same way for installation. As a sidenote, both studs can be removed and installed with a female Torx driver; the studs have a Torx male end. I would suggest getting 2 new studs (dealer or parts store), since the intact one appears to be a little beat up. You may also want to invest in a metric tap & die set if you plan on doing much work in the future to your truck. It's quite handy to have. A 6mm x 1.0mm tap would've cleaned up the studs nicely had you not bent and broken them. Here's an example- http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200313877.htm

kylextrisler

ill have to look into those tools, the back one isnt too beaten up alot of it is just the left over sealant that i havent taken all the way off, but they are old, so i probably will buy new ones
thanks for the advice, after class im gonna get on that

n4ynu1010

Drill it and use a "Easy-Out" to get it out , usually the heat generated by drilling does a good job of loosening them up and the "easy-out" will work like a champ , wouldn't want to see you scratch/gouge gasket surface .
Also remember if you are going to chase the threads to clean them up and the threaded hole is not thru and thru then you will need a "Bottom Tap" to clean the threads down to the bottom or to properly tap the hole to the proper depth (bottom) .
Heli-coils would be a good way to repair , if you have to just bond it and the stud with blue locktite

89red4x4yota

haven;t read the whole thread but can you say time for an electtic fan

homewrecka

my sentiments exactly...

Trustyrusty

Dude it can't be that hard, ever changed a water pump on a 69-73 Econoline? NOW THAT IS A PITA! I did it in like an hour though..

kylextrisler

i tried the 2 bolts idea, worked like a champ, took about 30 seconds, haha
it really isnt that hard, but im such a novice im tryin to learn every bit i can, im about done, just gotta take one nut off and the part is out, and then re assemble, work in an hour tho so its time to clean up. everyones been a help, i think i will head down to 4wparts or something and get that fan tho, she'll def. be running by this weekend, w/ all new belts and possibly a new fan! (sucks being a full time student part time bagger and not have a running truck, tough to get enough time to fix my truck, that and its halloween week, geeze)
oh and n4y ill probably just wind up getting 2 new studs, i live like 2 seconds away from a hardware parts store, so im sure they can help me out
btw i dont think id ever wanna work on an econline, the engine bay has to be about this big | |. Even tho thats about the same size as a 4runner...