ozziesironmanoffroad

dude, its easy. the pulley comes off with a 12 or a 14mm socket, if i remember correctly. i had to do that on mine. took me about half an hour to do.

kylextrisler

hm hahah alright that sounds great, ill look around to find one and try and get it installed in the next couple of days
thanks for the help! keep it comin if there is anything to add

ozziesironmanoffroad

unless im misunderstanding your problem... a pulley froze up, correct? if so then replace the pulley, i believe a new pulley assembly comes with the bearings.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

That is a crazy estimate, were they pulling the motor to do that? Though I havn't worked on a 3.0 parts couldn't be that bad, might be easier access to pull the radiator. I did a water pump replacement on my '84 in 95 at 0* and it only took me 2 hours.

I know what it was like to be in college with car trouble, I wish you the best...

kylextrisler

thanks robb, its a PITA, but thats how it goes, i think it would be easier access, im gonna keep reading and keep referring back to my truck,



i can work on it all friday and saturday, no class and i got the days off of work cuz its halloween weekend! and i mean i cant be waking up early or staying late =P even tho as soon as i heard 1k, i was like, damn, now i wish i worked
so depending on the space underthere, the space i can find in the parking lot and the parts i might take out the radiator, might not need to, might be good for me to get underthere and start having at it, maybe learn me some mechanics... i know more about doing a SAS than i should and not enough about what makes my truck go

Willcipher

Not too crazy, they were doing dealer list for the new bracket assembly which include a new fan clutch- motoriderbc indicated this is in excess of $800, sounds about right to me. Add new belts at dealer list- $50 or so, then add 2 hours of labor @ $80/hour. ($800 + $50 + $160 = $1010) This is not outrageous. It's a sign that the shop wasn't interested in doing it any cheaper or using aftermarket replacement parts. That's where a mechanically inclined consumer can hit the internet and save a boatload of money vs an uniformed consumer can bend over and shell out big $$$$.

n4ynu1010

I am confused ................... if the fan clutch went bad it would just be wobbling like mad and if not locked up (if locked up unless unbalanced you would just be direct drive/flex fan action), if wobbling and kinda loose would just cause motor to get hot at idle or in town if loose and floppy .
If they said or if the pulley locked up (fan pulley) then that would tend to indicate water pump is locked up as well , so if pump is locked up you may not need the fan clutch assy or even the the pulley , maybe just a new pump and 2 belts .
Like I said from some of the descriptions I am confused but then thay do call the drive shaft a propeller shaft lol

Willcipher

For the love of Pete, his fan clutch isn't part of the problem. The fan attaches to the fan clutch. The fan clutch and the pulley bolt together to the FAN BRACKET ASSEMBLY. This is an oddity; most engines don't have this piece. Most engines have the fan bolted to the water pump. The 3VZ and 5VZ both use a 'dummy' water pump snout- essentially a cast aluminum bracket that attaches to the front of the motor and positions the fan/clutch/belts. It has a permanently set bearing and cannot be replaced. It is confusing unless you have actually taken one apart.

Willcipher

To further clarify- the water pump is completely independent of the fan assembly. It is mounted on the lower left of the motor and is driven by the timing belt. The whole fan bracket design is kinda ghey. I removed my fan and fan clutch and installed an electric fan from a Volvo. BUT, I still have the fan bracket assembly to keep the pulley and belts in place.

Willcipher

Looky here; this here thingy is the whole jist of it- https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f107...pulley-107632/

kylextrisler

n4yn and will thanks for your guys' help
and will now it all makes perfect sense, cuz i was confused about how the pulley was messed up and the water pump was still working and i can drive but it still gets hot cuz the fan isnt turning and etc
now it makes sense
and that mechanic was telling me it was an odd part but he didnt say it was a pretty limited part to toyota
thank you guys for your help its starting to come together for me
as for the estimate


perfect timing on that part hahah
thanks for giving me that link
ill have to buy that and get in on!

BC_4runner

its called the fan idler bracket that part from toyota is about 700 bucks so you better learn how it fix it it yourself because its a sealed bearing

Willcipher

Glad we're all clear now. I hope, in light of the above explanation and pic, nobody recommends another fan clutch, flex-a-lite fan, or electric fan to this guy again. If they do, it means they didn't read through this post or they're too inept to comprehend the issue. Not trying to sound like a douche but this is the reason Pirate successfully keeps good tech and weeds out the bad. Uniformed suggestions tend to run rampant without some sort of intervention.

kylextrisler

so what bc is telling me about is the same part that is $70, but via dealership is 600+
thats ridiculous
im gonna keep researching this part ie pulling replacing how it works too i guess, good stuff to learn
thanks for the help guys
pirate does have good help
but i figured if i posted there i'd get this

"search, f***ing newb"

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Well the $70/$700 difference isn't exactly apples to apples. Sounds like the dealership price includes more stuff that you don't need.I've run across similar stuff where you get stuff you don't need or want with dealer parts.

Willcipher

Yes, BC is correct. Again, it includes the fan clutch which adds significantly to the price. One thing I noticed is that there is a difference between the older (88-92) and new (93-95) brackets. Hopefully yours is the older one because that can be had for cheap. The newer one appears to be specific to the hydraulic tensioner; meaning you need to mess with the T-Belt when you replace it.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I was wondering about in my earlier post. Again, I'm not a 3.0 guy and I was looking at the online '93 FSM. It just isn't clear from that if the bracket came off w/o involving the t-belt stuff. Kyle what year are you?

Willcipher

For the record, I'm not a 3.0 guy either. I prefer the 3.4 swap

As BLKNBLU asked, it makes a big difference in what year you have. I observed this when I was able to find the aftermarket 88-92 brackets easily but no mention of the 93-95.. The link to the yotatech pic sealed the deal. He mentions and it shows a provision for the hydraulic tensioner.

Willcipher

As a sidenote, mtsumedi was still pimping this bracket on 08-20-2007. It will fit any 3VZ-E from 1993-1995.

He says "They sell for $70 plus shipping on Ebay for a cheap aftermarket part so I think $50 + shipping is fair."

So there's your quick solution if you're 93-95

v8sport4runner

The place in rancho cordova is called toyauto mart its on sunrise blvd. their # (916) 635-8900. Ive never gone there but plenty of my friends use that place. I didnt fully read the rest of this thread but if you need the parts, give em a call and see if they have what you need.