Sheared wheel stud?
#1
Sheared wheel stud?
Well my frustrating day trying to get my Aisins to work just got a whole lot better.
I was reassembling everything so it would at least be drivable to work tomorrow, and lo and behold, I sheared off a wheel stud. Never done that before, and a quick search didn't pull anything up. Suggestions?
I was reassembling everything so it would at least be drivable to work tomorrow, and lo and behold, I sheared off a wheel stud. Never done that before, and a quick search didn't pull anything up. Suggestions?
#2
You have five others, you'll be ok. I have a stud missing from the driver's rear of both of my 93's. Eventually you can have it replaced at SEARS or most other wheel/service shops. Probably around $60-70.
#6
Registered User
just run it. it's fine.. and when you get a day off, pull the hub off and put in a new stud, they're easy as heck to replace.
Now rear studs are another story, that costs money (gotta pull the bearing.. unless you got discs .. muahahha ...
Now rear studs are another story, that costs money (gotta pull the bearing.. unless you got discs .. muahahha ...
#7
Registered User
Ive twisted one off and drove that way for months. Like said above, You will be fine and since it is close to the center of the wheel you shouldnt feel any vibrations from being out of balance.
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#8
Well, after pulling the tire and brakes off, I discovered that I don't have the 2 1/8" socket needet to get the hub the rest of the freaking way off. So I came inside, ordered one from Wabfab, and was pleased.
Then I went back outside, put everything back together, and... broke another one off. And really, I'm not tightening them *that* much.
When that socket gets here I'm going to replace ALL of the front studs, that's fer dang sure.
Then I went back outside, put everything back together, and... broke another one off. And really, I'm not tightening them *that* much.
When that socket gets here I'm going to replace ALL of the front studs, that's fer dang sure.
#9
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
Geez man! That sucks!!! I made a socket out of 2.5" exhaust tubing I had. I had to have something right then and there. Works great for now...I do see a WabFab order soon though...
#10
Yeah, for $24 bucks it seems like it would be WELL worth it! I can't wait to have all those replaced, popping off studs is no fun at all!
....that last bit could sound vaugely wrong if taken out of context....
....that last bit could sound vaugely wrong if taken out of context....
#13
So many things can sounds wrong with wrenching:
lubed up my rear end last night
greased up my driveshaft
the hotter it is the more penetration you'll get
tighten both nuts up and drive that stud home
lubed up my rear end last night
greased up my driveshaft
the hotter it is the more penetration you'll get
tighten both nuts up and drive that stud home
#17
As per the original OP's question, I think he's looking for input on how to replace the wheels stud ie. DIY.
I'd also be interested on any help as I've got a wheel stud that needs replacing so that I can register my vehicle.
I'd also be interested on any help as I've got a wheel stud that needs replacing so that I can register my vehicle.
#18
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Appleton, Wi. USA
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Pics should help ya, the studs are about 6 bucks. In order to get to the front studs, you have to remove the entire rotor. Take off the hub cap and remove cotter pin and the large nut on there. Remove the hub and commence to pounding out the old studs HINT: use some wood to keep from messing the rotor up. Replacing is the reverse. Double check the spines on the studs. You can get them snug when you put your wheel back on. On the rear, just hit them out of the axle thru the back. Replacing is just putting them in from the back and snugging them with the wheel.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.p...1&d=1192296865
http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.p...1&d=1192296865
Last edited by Dublin; 08-01-2009 at 07:42 AM.
#19
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
With a 4x4 remove the locking hub then the nuts and lock holding the wheel bearing .
pull off the rotor hub unit remove the 6 bolts holing the rotor to the hub separate the 2 pieces . I soak this good before. remove the broken stud I find air hammer is the best way. being careful. They also work great for stubborn cone washers.
To install the new studs or stud what ever is needed. I use a M12x1.50 stardard lug nut with the flat part to the bottom. using the half inch impact gun to pull it where it needs to be checking to make sure it is pulled in snug.
put it all back maybe replacing the wheel seal if you decide to pack the inner wheel bearing . A good thing to do if you have never been in there before.
pull off the rotor hub unit remove the 6 bolts holing the rotor to the hub separate the 2 pieces . I soak this good before. remove the broken stud I find air hammer is the best way. being careful. They also work great for stubborn cone washers.
To install the new studs or stud what ever is needed. I use a M12x1.50 stardard lug nut with the flat part to the bottom. using the half inch impact gun to pull it where it needs to be checking to make sure it is pulled in snug.
put it all back maybe replacing the wheel seal if you decide to pack the inner wheel bearing . A good thing to do if you have never been in there before.