SEAFOAM causes leaks?
#21
I use the water trick a few times a month on many engines. Tap a vacuum line as close to the TB as you can. Run a 4' vacuum line from that into a 4L (1 Gal) jug of water. I use small vicegrips on the 4' line as my regulator;
• Tap the vacuum line
• 4' Hose on said tap
• Pinch closed w/small vicegrips
• 4L / 1Gal jug of water, put 4' hose in it
• Start truck / car
• Throttle up to ~2000 rpm
• SLOWLY open the vicegrips by turning the adjusting screw on the bottom
• When engine starts to cough STOP turning the screw.
• The vacuum can be adjusted to pull about 1L (1qt) every 5 minutes.
It's amazing what this can do. Cars will fail emissions testing horribly, run water through them, and they pass with room to spare. Throttle response is better, efficiency is even improved (guessing 02 gets cleaned off too). You can't go too slow with this procedure though. If it takes an hour you'll get the same results. Take your time!
• Tap the vacuum line
• 4' Hose on said tap
• Pinch closed w/small vicegrips
• 4L / 1Gal jug of water, put 4' hose in it
• Start truck / car
• Throttle up to ~2000 rpm
• SLOWLY open the vicegrips by turning the adjusting screw on the bottom
• When engine starts to cough STOP turning the screw.
• The vacuum can be adjusted to pull about 1L (1qt) every 5 minutes.
It's amazing what this can do. Cars will fail emissions testing horribly, run water through them, and they pass with room to spare. Throttle response is better, efficiency is even improved (guessing 02 gets cleaned off too). You can't go too slow with this procedure though. If it takes an hour you'll get the same results. Take your time!
#22
no..seafoam will not CAUSE leaks...it only exposes existing leaks when you pour it into the crank because of all the sludge and gunk that is slowing the leaks, the seafoam breaks down...thus exposing an existing leak, rule of thumb(for me) if you have any visible leaks at all, flushing the motor, or using additives to "clean" the motor will remove whats slowing the leak, seafoam will NOT destroy seals, it just lets you know which ones are already junk!
Last edited by Team420; 05-08-2008 at 06:16 AM.
#23
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
I am also not sure about pouring water in the intake. I know we are talking a small amount very slowly, but the cleanliness of an engine is based on how efficiently it burns the fuel. If all the fuel burns and the exhaust is sent out of the chamber, there is nothing left to cause deposits. Adding water to an explosion does not seem to be a good way to make the explosion more complete, unless maybe the water cools the intake charge (air and gas) causing a more even burn/explosion. Seems risky to me and little benefit.
Water down the vacuum line works great! The water is phase changed to seam and we all know how well steam cleaning works. Costs nothing and works great. Won't damage CAT or O2. Have to work throttle as water is gently poured into the intake. Try it, you will be amazed. Piss on Seafoam.
My $0.02
My $0.02
I've heard the same thing before from a few people; they put it just as you did, how it basically steam cleans the combustion chamber. I still would never try it myself. If it works great for you, then awesome, but I've hydrolocked several motors, therefore I will never PURPOSEFULLY put any amount of water no matter how small or how slow into my intake. SeaFoam works for me...
I use the water trick a few times a month on many engines. Tap a vacuum line as close to the TB as you can. Run a 4' vacuum line from that into a 4L (1 Gal) jug of water. I use small vicegrips on the 4' line as my regulator;
• Tap the vacuum line
• 4' Hose on said tap
• Pinch closed w/small vicegrips
• 4L / 1Gal jug of water, put 4' hose in it
• Start truck / car
• Throttle up to ~2000 rpm
• SLOWLY open the vicegrips by turning the adjusting screw on the bottom
• When engine starts to cough STOP turning the screw.
• The vacuum can be adjusted to pull about 1L (1qt) every 5 minutes.
It's amazing what this can do. Cars will fail emissions testing horribly, run water through them, and they pass with room to spare. Throttle response is better, efficiency is even improved (guessing 02 gets cleaned off too). You can't go too slow with this procedure though. If it takes an hour you'll get the same results. Take your time!
• Tap the vacuum line
• 4' Hose on said tap
• Pinch closed w/small vicegrips
• 4L / 1Gal jug of water, put 4' hose in it
• Start truck / car
• Throttle up to ~2000 rpm
• SLOWLY open the vicegrips by turning the adjusting screw on the bottom
• When engine starts to cough STOP turning the screw.
• The vacuum can be adjusted to pull about 1L (1qt) every 5 minutes.
It's amazing what this can do. Cars will fail emissions testing horribly, run water through them, and they pass with room to spare. Throttle response is better, efficiency is even improved (guessing 02 gets cleaned off too). You can't go too slow with this procedure though. If it takes an hour you'll get the same results. Take your time!
Funny story....sorta
I'd left the air box/VAM unclamped when I finished doing a repair on my 3.0. I drove the vehicle several times before it started acting up....choking, hesitating, idling poorly. Didn't know what the hell was wrong with it. So, I popped the hood and gave a good visual over the entire engine. Found the air box disconnectied and pulled it off to find water in there. Of course, the filter was also wet. So, I dried out the air box and blew out the filter. Reassembled everything, fired up the truck, and all of the steam that came out was like any Seafoam treatment I'd done. Truck ran much better than even before the "accidental water treatment".
Water....it's not just for drinking, anymore.
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