Rings, Pistons, Header, A/C too?
02-18-2011, 04:11 PM
#43
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The good ol' V6 brake booster and m/c swap. Picked this up from a guy scrapping his wrecked 97 V6. Fit right in. Aisin 1" bore seems a lot bigger than my old one. The booster is huge too. Hope they help. Mine have been getting squishy.
02-22-2011, 04:52 PM
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So, I'm sitting around yesterday waiting for parts, bored and all of a sudden Modzilla attacks. I found this from a local guy. $50
Can't tell in pics but the hole on that afm is 3 inches, which means:
That's right. The guy is parting out an 82 supra. Is there anything else I should get from him?
Can't tell in pics but the hole on that afm is 3 inches, which means:
That's right. The guy is parting out an 82 supra. Is there anything else I should get from him?
02-22-2011, 04:54 PM
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When I got home from picking up the Supra AFM, there was a big box on my porch. All of my engnbldr parts were here.
Spent a little time working and:
Turned this:
Into this:
Spent a little time working and:
Turned this:
Into this:
02-23-2011, 12:14 PM
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Nice! How was putting the new piston on the connecting rod? I've heard the wrist pins can be a pain. I just dropped off my block to be machined, should get it back Friday. So I'll be putting it together over the weekend so keep posting so I know what to expect. Ha ha.
02-23-2011, 01:18 PM
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spokane: I was worried about the wrist pins too. I did exactly what the fsm said. Drop the piston in a pot of 80 degree C water. Let it soak for about a minute and pull it out. Do not heat the wrist pin. Now just put it in. At that temp they just slide right in. Super easy.
I happened to have a thermometer so it was easy. If you don't, just bring it to a boil and take your time getting it to your work area. It will cool fairly quickly so you should be about 80-90 degrees by the time you get ready.
Here are a few tips I figured out along the way.
1) Wear gloves! They get hot.
2) Before you heat your water go ahead and put the little pinch clamp/clasp things in one side of all of your pistons. If not you'll push them right through the other side.
3) Have all 4 ready to go before you heat the water and you'll only have to once.
4) Don't let your wife see you using her good pot.
These may seem obvious to most folks, but I sure wish someone would have told me. It would have saved a lot of time and trips into the kitchen.
I happened to have a thermometer so it was easy. If you don't, just bring it to a boil and take your time getting it to your work area. It will cool fairly quickly so you should be about 80-90 degrees by the time you get ready.
Here are a few tips I figured out along the way.
1) Wear gloves! They get hot.
2) Before you heat your water go ahead and put the little pinch clamp/clasp things in one side of all of your pistons. If not you'll push them right through the other side.
3) Have all 4 ready to go before you heat the water and you'll only have to once.
4) Don't let your wife see you using her good pot.
These may seem obvious to most folks, but I sure wish someone would have told me. It would have saved a lot of time and trips into the kitchen.
Last edited by txclimber; 02-23-2011 at 01:23 PM.
02-23-2011, 01:37 PM
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How do you guys put the clutch on? My engine is on a stand so it bolts down on the back, preventing access.
Do you just do everything else and wait until the engine is off the stand and hanging from the hoist and then put the clutch on?
Guess I'm revealing my true rookie status, but is there a better way?
Do you just do everything else and wait until the engine is off the stand and hanging from the hoist and then put the clutch on?
Guess I'm revealing my true rookie status, but is there a better way?
02-23-2011, 04:10 PM
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Thanks for the tips. I better stop at goodwill for a pot cause the wife would kill me if she saw me boiling pistons! Ha ha. I remember seeing something about that in the fsm, I'll have to read it closer. I thought the same thing with clutch and flywheel, So my plan is to install when engine is on hoist.
02-23-2011, 05:43 PM
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What a pain. So I drive 30 min to parts store and made the mistake of picking up a loaner ring compressor. Drove 30 min home, got ready to use it and the thing was busted.
I had to drive back to the store and just buy one. Should have forked out the $15 the first time. Two hours later I'm back at the house and slipped the pistions in. Got 'em all torqued down.
I had to drive back to the store and just buy one. Should have forked out the $15 the first time. Two hours later I'm back at the house and slipped the pistions in. Got 'em all torqued down.
02-23-2011, 05:54 PM
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Got ready to start working on the front and got hit with another surprise. I opened up the new oil pump and was not happy about the way it looked.
You can see the plate that has the timing numbers on it is messed up. From the top it looks even worse. I'm worried that if the maker let that slip, what about the tolerances inside?
Am I being paranoid?
You can see the plate that has the timing numbers on it is messed up. From the top it looks even worse. I'm worried that if the maker let that slip, what about the tolerances inside?
Am I being paranoid?
02-23-2011, 08:44 PM
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I saw another build thread a while back where they had the exact same problem with their oil pump. I just received an Eb kit yesterday with an o/p and mine looks a lot better then that. It was the first thing I checked for fear of that exact problem. so there is obviously some discrepancies in that product. Eb is known for their good customer service so I'm sure you could exchange it. But I agree, if that slipped by quality control then what else did? The fsm lists specs for checking the oil pump. Check that one and your old one and that might help. My old one checks out so I'm still debating on which to use.
Last edited by spokane.yota.man; 02-24-2011 at 05:10 AM.
02-23-2011, 09:12 PM
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I used a good mix of vendors and manufacturers, EB among them.... I believe my oil pump was ROCK, not sure of the vendor...
I did not do a spec check, and now I think I should have, got lucky and have good oil pressure.
I had some heard ache after the fact, it I had tightened the chain tensioner bolts too much~
For the timing marks I added a little white out, stands out great w/ the timing light.
Repo
I did not do a spec check, and now I think I should have, got lucky and have good oil pressure.
I had some heard ache after the fact, it I had tightened the chain tensioner bolts too much~
For the timing marks I added a little white out, stands out great w/ the timing light.
Repo
02-24-2011, 06:11 AM
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I sent engnbldr an email with a picture of the oil pump and he was super cool. He agreed that it was not up to his quality standards and started scripting a nasty letter to his supplier. He's going to send my pump with the letter.
I explained that I was short on time and couldn't afford to wait for shipping both ways and needed to go ahead an pick up another one locally. He said "no problem" send it back for refund. He even thanked me for bringing the issue to his attention. Awesome customer service.
I explained that I was short on time and couldn't afford to wait for shipping both ways and needed to go ahead an pick up another one locally. He said "no problem" send it back for refund. He even thanked me for bringing the issue to his attention. Awesome customer service.
02-24-2011, 06:45 AM
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Good deal. Eb has awesome customer service but I don't think rock is top of line like it often is portrayed as. I've seen several posts with crap parts from rock. But a lot of their stuff is out there so there is bound to be some defects I guess.
02-24-2011, 11:58 AM
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Back under the dash messing with the A/C install. But, I finally got hold of a wiring diagram for an 88. Diagram shows a 5 prong plug just like the 87 I've got so I'm assuming those are the same.
According to the diagram the mystery 5th wire that was added btwn 86 and 87 returns to a fuse.
Can I just wire this one in with one of the others. I suck at reading diagrams so I'm not sure, but it seems like I could tie this mystery wire in with the one that goes to the ignition coil and I'm in business. Don't worry about the fuse. Apparently the didn't have them wired up in 86 anyway. I'm I gonna blow something up?
According to the diagram the mystery 5th wire that was added btwn 86 and 87 returns to a fuse.
Can I just wire this one in with one of the others. I suck at reading diagrams so I'm not sure, but it seems like I could tie this mystery wire in with the one that goes to the ignition coil and I'm in business. Don't worry about the fuse. Apparently the didn't have them wired up in 86 anyway. I'm I gonna blow something up?
