From what i can read in the haynes manuals, is it hard to replace rotors and brake pads if i follow the instructions eitheri n the haynes manual or any other instructions?

I have warped rotors and i really dont want to go to a shop and have them install cheap rotors which will probably warp again. I live in washington state in bellingham so if anyone in the area can work on my car id be happy to pay them.

 

I'm assuming you're talking about your 1995 4Runner. It's not THAT hard replace the rotors, but it's not as easy as some vehicles. If you have a good manual, you should be able to do it. The two hard parts as I recall were removing the hub from the spindle and then unbolting the rotor from the hub. Here's a link that shows all sorts of Toyota front end repairs.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/

 

thanks

Im a computer technician and i figured that if i can disassemble curcuit boards and reassemble them then doing so on a car wouldnt be too much more difficult.

 

What would be good replacements.

Do i want slotted and/or drilled rotors.

And what are good brake pads.

 

You'll need a 2 1/8 inch socket for the hub nut. Cross drilled or slotted rotors are a better choice than the cheapo's IMO. Get yourself some good ceramic brake pads too. Check out this post.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...t=1%2F8+socket

 

i have raybestos pg plus with noise solution on my truck and brembo blank vented (not slotted or drilled) just the oem replacements that i got from www.tirerack.com and they work well

 

I'll second what jimabena said. I got the cheapie brembo stock style rotors from Pep Boys. They've worked fine and I'm not kind to the brakes. I use factory pads though. Any other pad I've used has squeaked - even with the old, OEM rotors.

 

Ok i just spent a good amount of time readingo ther threads.

My car has 4wd and its a 1995 so i know i have to basically dissassemble the entire assembly on the front tires to reach the rotors and repalce them.

I have a haynes manual so it would be a little easier on me in terms of instructions.

I have read that I should also do something about the bearings since I have access to them anyway.

So I would like it if someoen could give me a list of recommended things I should do as long as I have the everything off anyhow.

I believe that that i have ADD hubs since i know its not auto or manual. When i take off the stock hub cap on my rim I see this metal cap like thing but im looking into replacing it with aisin manual locking hubs.

 

If you're going to have it apart, now is the time to change the hubs to manual if you're planning on that modification. I found it's easy to remove the cone washers on the hub using a brass hammer. Manuals will tell you to use a brass punch. I got a brass hammer at Autozone cheap and it works great. Only other speciality tool you need is the giant socket to remove the hub nut.

 

I decided to purchase some aisin hubs off ebay, if anyone else has any input on where i should get hubs then id be happy to know.


I also decided to get brembo rotors since people have read good things about them.

Now is where im deciding what i should do.

I live in washington state and drive quite often since i moved to bellingham. From my expierience it rains alot in washington due to the fact that we get the mountain shadow almost all the time.

So do i choose slotted for the better dry braking performance, the cross-drilled for better wet braking performance, or get both and lose braking surface.

For people that live in washington I would like to hear comments on your experiences especially in the bellingham to seattle area since thats where I do most of my driving (Drive to bainbridge island bi-monthly).

Also for brake pads ill go to autozone and get the PF pads since peopel have had good comments on those as well and while im at it ill replace the pads on all 4 wheels.

My friend drove my car and noticed that alot of the braking power is applied to the front of my car. So any tips on fine tunning the braking power to all wheels is appreiciated.

Like I mentioned before, if anyone has any suggestion on any other things I should take care of as long as Im taking the wheel apart to replace the rotors would be appreiciated.

 

i think you've got drum brakes in the rear, so they don't use "pads", but "shoes". (my 1994 pickup has drum brakes in the rear at least.)

the rear brake shoes prolly don't need to be replaced, though...sounds like your load-sensing proportioning valve (LSPV) might not be sending enough pressure to your rear brakes, so the shoes are probably not worn. your LSPV may need to be replaced.

 

and where can I pick up a LSPV

 

You dont need a new one. And that is good!! If you have a lift on your truck your lspv probably needs to be adjusted. It is located on the frame rail on the pass. side over the rear axel, it has a rod that comes down from the valve body to the rear axel, it connects to the left of center on axel. To get more breaking to the front the rod needs to move towards the axel. I.E If you have a 3" lift kit the bar that attaches the rod to the axel needs to be 3" longer to get the same breaking ballance as stock. the purpouse of of an adjustable valve is; the more weight in the bed of your truck the more power is sent to the rear axel so you do not jack knife under hard breaking but when your bed is empty most breaking is done by the front. This is y toyotas eat 2 sets of pads to 1 pair of shoes, not a bunch of people carry a lot of weight around all the time.