95 4Runner V6, On inside of frame above right rear upper shock mount, in the most awkward spot, lines are corroded, pinhole in one of the hard lines. Any easy fixes for this? Seems like a nightmare...

Thanks for any suggestions...

 

you might wanna price out stainless brake lines..sometimes its just a better way to

 

You're going to have to move your gas tank, or drop it completely, if you can, and run a new line. Head to NAPA or Lordco and get a length of 3/16" brake line, preferably the coated stuff, a flaring tool, a brake line cutter, a brake bleeder, and maybe a couple new ends and go to work. No point in trying to patch it. Run a new length from the front to the rear. It's going to take you a few hours, but what other choice do you have?

If you can wait 2 weeks, I'll be heading through Revelstoke and could probably give you a little help.

 

RobD- "Run a new length from the front to the rear. It's going to take you a few hours, but what other choice do you have?"- Thats exactly what I was thinking. Its in my shop now, going to try and get it done tomorrow. What kind of length are we talking?

Thanks...

& I'll be in Calgary in 2 weeks, otherwise I might have taken you up on the offer, thanks

 

Yo brake line is REALLY not that hard, lol.
Pull the old lines, chop off the ends to get the brass fittings you need..
Also, if you have a dremel, use that..
Pipe-cutting tools have a tendency to harden the metal.
Use a pipe-cutting tool, then use a dremel to grind off about 1/6th of an inch. Make sure it's flat and true..
Then slip your ends on, and go to town with the brake line flare tool..
Just had to do all these lines on my heep, and it really wasn't as hard as people say. Double-flared brake lines take maybe 5 mins to do properly once you can figure it out.

To be safe, i'd go try and get a 10 foot piece of 3/16th. Unfortunately i think napa only sells rolls of 25 feet, but its about a dollar a foot so maybe 25-30 for the 25 feet..

Rent a tool, they're like 20 bucks and you get your cash back.

 

I believe if you replace the brake hard line with another factory piece you have to lift the body up off the frame on the passenger side. Only has to come up a couple of inches to get to a bolt/bracket holding down the line. I know you do on an 84-89 4Runner but not sure on a 90-95.

 

Jeez, I wish I could remember. I got a roll, probably 25', from my brother at NAPA in Kelowna. I bet I still have half of it left or so.

It's better to get the continuous roll, though. I'm not a fan of splicing anything.

 

lol dude the line from LSPV to front T is maybe 10 feet long?

 

Yes, but the roll came in a longer length. It might not have been 25', maybe only 20'. I don't remember for sure. And it only cost me $13, so I have plenty left over for another repair, if need be.

 

I don't get it.
Are you going to let him have your extra length of BL?

 

I have done quite a few of these and have a few here now to do.

I have noticed once you start I most often end up replacing all the metal lines as well as the rubber hoses.

That is a call only you can make!!!

I have found by far the easy way to do this is . Just make the new lines attach them where you can reach making them longer if need be .

put tape over the ends to keep dirt out .

if need be use old pieces of rubber hose to protect from rubbing .attached with black cable ties.

A good double flaring tool just does a better job

put it all together bleed the brakes you should be good to go.

The stainless lines are another option If I had them on hand I would no doubt use them

 

Get the Nickel Copper Alloy brake line as it is not supposed to rust AND can be bent by hand! I just did an F-150 for my stepfather and was able to run from the brake booster all the way back to the rear junction box (16 ft line) without any seams! It does cost more per roll ($45 compared to $20 for standard steel) but much more simple to run and you will need less connection pieces so that will make up for spending more on the line itself...

 

Well, old lines are out...

 

A) How much fun was that?

B) Make sure you match them back up properly at the T and the LSBPV at the back.

 

Ha, ya kind of a pain to get 'em out. Wanna remind of how they were hooked up Top of the T to the top of the LSBPV?? My bad not paying attention, just wanted to go SKIING!! on a POW day!!

Thanks