chris_f

Thanks for all the info guy's. but I'm a currently a little stuck..

I got my parts (SKF) all from CT boutique ! Canadian tire.. $78 taxes in.

My wheel started making continuous noise before my hubs were completed. So I replaced the bearing and races using the link provided(Thanks SpeedyManiac). Went awesome.. Only problem was I don't own a 54mm/2-1/8 socket and calling around all the stores (napa/carquest etc..) sound like I'm making this socket up.

So I used the screw driver and BFH method (I'm not proud) based on the recomendation of a mechanic I met at sears during my socket hunt . Not knowing if I preloaded and tighted it correctly. I gave it a test drive and it still makes a noise. I'm assumming it has to do with my not preloading enough or the final tighting is to much.. Is this a possibility? and Were can I get a 54mm socket? 1/2" drive preferably?

I will post some pictures of my hub's before/after.
Thanks in advance..

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Marlin sells one
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm
Down towards the bottom

Snap On dealer or similar
SEARS - Craftsman

All those chain auto parts stores...wasting your time. You need a automotive tool place...not sure what you have in Canada.

I walked into my local SEARS and they had one. You can order from them online as well.

They specify the pre-load and the torque specs for a reason. You will need a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter as well as the 54mm will be 3/4" drive.

farmerj

OTC 54mm Socket Comes in 1/2' drive.

Owatana Tool company....Wonderful maker of automotive specialty tools.

Also, get yourself a nice beam torque wrench. When you think about it, would you do this kind of adjustment on a gearset in a differential without the correct tools?

Need more info on the rest of it.

Does it make the noise while turning? WHich way?

runethechamp

As far as adjusting the torque on the spindle nut, it's just a way to ultimately get the right preload on the bearing. Since I don't have a spring gauge for the preload testing, I used a dumbbell with approximately the same weight as the minimum preload, tied a string to it and attached it to one of the wheel studs. If the stud is in the 3 or 9 o'clock oposition, this will be correct. Before I had the 54 mm socked, I used a hammer and bar to tighten the nut, a little bit at the time, until the dumbbell wouldn't move the rotor/hub.

Mister Willie

If its making a grumbly rubbing grinding kind of noise, it might also be the spindle bushing.

chris_f

OK I got the socket.. Thanks all. I found a auto tool place that had a 2-1/8" for $14.00. Only problem was it was a 1" drive and they didn't have any adapters.

Since I have a 3/8" torque wrench I did the following. made a 3/4", 3/8" drive socket fit (grinding off 4 sides till it was snug) then hammering it in the 2-1/8", 1" drive socket the rest of the way. I then welded inside and out and ground down the face of the socket so that it would fit the 54mm spindle nut. Check out the pics and let me know what you think.. I tried re-seating my bearings but still making noise.. I'm gonna try again tomorrow. Socket works great... Now just need the noise to go away.

chris_f

Thanks guy's for all the help (really appreciated). Here's an update & question on my front right wheel bearing replacement saga (shouldn't be this hard!). I re-torqued the adjusting nut and lock nut to the correct values in my last post using my new 3/8" drive 2-1/8" socket. Yet when I took it for a test drive that day the noise was still there (like rubbing metal). I haven't driven since and today I was going to take it all apart again and re-pack and re-torque everything. As I drove to my Dad's house less than 1 km (1/2 mile) away. He's got a garage (I have a car-port and the temp is almost 0C here so much nicer to work in). Anyway the noise disappeared??? I drove it for a 15km test drive from slow speeds to high speed(100km/h or 60mph) did tight turn circles (turning left/right) in a parking lot. Still no noise. Only thing I noticed was when i stopped the right wheel hub cover that the bearing was changed was warmer than the left that wasn't changed and it was much cooler.

So now I wondering why the noise started and stopped and what to do?
- Could it be the bearings were on to tight to make such a noise even after I re-torqued? Maybe still to tight because of the fact there warmer than the other side.
- When I put the hub back on the spindle I really didn't put alot of grease on the spindle (very little). Could this cause it not to seat correctly or turn easily?

I'm going to drive it another 5km tomorrow and then open it up again and check the torque settings on the lock and adjusting nut's?

Sorry for the long post..

Chris

farmerj

Just curious, but did you pump out the brakes BEFORE you took it for a ride? It may take 5-10 pumps to get the calipers to actually apply your front brakes if you had them fully compressed in. If you reused the old pads maybe more.

If the pads were floating in the caliper, that may have been what you were hearing.

chris_f

All I did was remove the two 17mm bolts and move the caliper out of the way.. You could be right. I drove less than 1/2 mile (1km) after replacing the bearings cause I was so freaked out about the noise. The brakes would have been used the very little (less than 10x).

Thanks for the info.. I'll post an update (good/bad) once I get some more miles on it.

runethechamp

Just remember to check the bearing preload after you torque. Correct preload is more important than correct torque.

chris_f

I re-packed the bearing today and think I've determined what has been causing the issue.
When I removed the rotor from the spindle I found that the gasket of the dust seal that is attached to the brake dust cover got loose (see image circled in red) and got caught behind the rotor. Which I think is why it never seated correctly and was not turning smoothly and making noise even though all the steps I did were correct.



I have currently put everything back together and no noise (yeaaa) yet with no rubber gasket for the dust seal.

My NEW question is the dust sheild (gasket) which is now missing and costs
$53 CDN. Is it needed? Or can I go without it? I did find the following thread about this seal for info.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ust+cover+seal (image above is taken from this post)

The truck will be driving without it for a couple days regardless 'cause I can only find it at toyota dealer and it takes 2-3 days to come in.. So based on the reponses I may be tearing into the rotor for a 3 or is it 4th time (it's funny my wife keeps asking why i do it, "bring it to the mechanic" !!)

Thanks again for all the info,
Chris

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Can you "go without" brushing your teeth? Sure, but they sure will rot out sooner.

I'd fix it right.

chris_f

This looks like the correct part? How do I verify? Anyone know?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...0,partGroup,14

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523487
Front Wheel Seal,
Inner;
2 Per Car $16.21

toyaholic

i just finished with my wheel job. new pads, rotors, and hub oil seal, and repacked bearings. it sucked. first time doing it. anyway, do you still have the part that came loose? do you have the oil seal installed on the back of the hub? i wouldn't think that it would be a good idea to drive with out that part of the spindle knuckle assembly if you are talking about the part where the hub butts up to. i don't know, i'm kind of confused. i see the picture from the manual, but i don't see how you could loose that part or even put your wheel back on without it.

chris_f

Just an update on the noise issue. After re-doing the bearing's a couple of times and still getting the noise. I checed and grabbed the CV axle and it wasn't moving that much to make sure it wasn't the spindle bearings. In the end I was stumped and I finally took it to my mechanic friends.

What they found was that the bearings were done right and after some head scratching they finally figured out there were two dust cover's on the CV axle. I guess I overlooked that when I installed it (don't know how?). Anyway it was a real rookie move but now that the extra part is removed I've driven 100+miles and no noise. Next it's the manual hub install !! Finally..

My99

Great thread for rookies! Per another thread, I am trying to find out the orientation of the outer bearing - the one that fits behind the washer, held on by the inner 54mm lock nut. It came out when I pulled off the hub, and I didn't catch the orientation of it. Should the smaller end go on first, or the large end, when re-assembling. From the picture, it appears the small end goes on first. In another post, someone directed that the larger diameter end should slide on first.




Thanks,
Kyle

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

The side where the bearings are goes in first...you should see the writing and the flat side once you insert the outer wheel bearing.