Regular guy with regular tools gear swap (Lots of pics)
#83
So ZUK, I have my gears and I have begun re-assembly. I went with "motive gear" 4.88's to match the rear..... What would you recommend as a starting point for pinion shims? I am re-using all the stock bearings. Stock shim was .096
#85
Yeah I know I know..... Motive sucks but keep in mind they are going in a truck I paid $300 for so if we are going by the ratio of "cost of vehicle / cost of gears" technically I am putting yukon gears in my truck. LOL. If I had the money I would love to put really good parts in my truck but that is not the case...... sadly So Motive it is. I did put them in the rear too. I don't know how many miles I have on it.....but so far I haven't had any trouble with the rear gears. Have you had failures with motive gears? My toy budget was blown on my VW TDI project, but that worked out well because now I have an awesome Daily driver and the yota has been promoted to firewood truck/weekend off-road warrior! So anywho... this is where I got to tonight....
Mail call...
Smells so fresh!
New and old comparison.
Ring gear....
Filing all surfaces...
New bolts....red locktite, 71 ft.lbs.
dunzo.
Pinion shot!
Mail call...
Smells so fresh!
New and old comparison.
Ring gear....
Filing all surfaces...
New bolts....red locktite, 71 ft.lbs.
dunzo.
Pinion shot!
#86
#91
Ok, I will try to source some .120 Plates Have you ever made your own. I have a lathe and a heat treatment oven..... And mad skilz haha! Do you know what material/hardness the plates need to be to hold up?
#93
First pattern reading
Here is my first reading... The only shim combo I could come up with given the shims in my kit was.105. Not sure whats going on but if I torque the carrier caps down tight i cant even turn the ring gear. so, they are just snug when I took this reading. Pretty much zero backlash.
#94
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
The pattern look s shallow by about .005" but I wouldn't say for sure until you have some backlash in there. You'll need a thinner shim on the ring side and a larger shim on the other side. If you have .115 on both sides right now..........Maybe .108 and .122 respectively will work for at least a valid paint check..
Last edited by ZUK; 01-21-2017 at 09:31 AM.
#98
I monkeyed around with some shims I had laying around. Here is where i'm at now. I have .008 BL I am able to torque the bearing caps down and this is my pattern now. Carrier shims are very hard to drive in.... So Im assuming there is enough Pre load on them. I have to use a big hunk of brass and drive them in little by little on both sides.
Last edited by millennium falcon; 01-21-2017 at 12:30 PM.
#99
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Great on the BL....but that pinion depth shim will need about .020" more.
If you have .105 already for the pinion depth then you need about .125" now which is unusual for it to be that high. Are you sure you really had .105 in there?
Note that going .020 deeper means the backlash will be affected.....instead of .008 you will now have .003 to .004.
If you have .105 already for the pinion depth then you need about .125" now which is unusual for it to be that high. Are you sure you really had .105 in there?
Note that going .020 deeper means the backlash will be affected.....instead of .008 you will now have .003 to .004.
#100
I will double check my pinion shims when I remove the bearing. I have a feeling if I add .020 more on the pinion I will be back in trouble with the BL like you said. and I dont have any more shims or plates to move the carrier over. What would you say is the minimum I could add to the pinion as to not throw off my BL much more? Also, how hard should the carrier plated drive in? Thank you!