desconhecido

So, you have the entire EFI from the 87 truck that donated the distributor? I think the EFI distributor is the way to go, but the EFI computer has to be getting the proper distributor position information from the distributor in order to properly advance the timing with engine speed. The distributor for a carbed engine will not provide the distributor position information. I don't know if an efi engine will run if the distributor info is not present/correct.

When you are using the timing light, does it seem that the timing advances smoothly with engine speed?

TinyT

it seems to advance smoothly

i set timing with the jumper in, and yes, it does drop idle

currently timing is at 0 degrees and the dizzy is fully advanced

if i give it 1 more tooth on the dizzy, timing goes to 12 degrees with he dizzy fully retarded

give it a little gas and timing climes to 50 degrees btdc

i know its supposed to go up when on the gas, but it jumps up A LOT!



i cant go over 65

5th gear just bogs

i can maintain 60 in 4th, but i just burn gas

if i stand on it at 60 it doesnt really do anything, slightly accelerates

it doesnt get up to speed as good as it used to with 253,000 on it

not running an airfilter, no cat, flapper in maf swings freely

fuel return is run through an evap line

TinyT

and it intermittently bogs in low gears if i give it too much gas, i have to baby the gas and then it will accelerate

it feels like there is a smooth spot at low throttle that makes it accelerate descent, still seems lean though

and like i said, its intermittent, sometimes in open loop, sometimes in closed, and doesnt at all others

desconhecido

Maybe it's not retarded ignition timing, then. I would expect total advance at 2500 rpm or so to be in the 35 btdc range. That's just a guess based on experience with other engines as I can't find a reference for total advance for the 22RE. It seems obvious to me that if you're seeing 50 btdc that you're getting plenty of advance. So, that means that your ECM is advancing the timing and it's probably doing it correctly (assuming it's the proper ECM).

I just realized that the cam shaft sprocket picture earlier in this thread was by Abe and not yours. The sprocket has 36 teeth. So, if you are off by one tooth, that's 10 degrees . I think that that is what Targetnut (Mr Bill?) is getting at. If the cam is one tooth clockwise with respect to the crank then the exhaust valves would be opening too soon and could be causing your problem. If the timing marks are out of position with respect to the crank (slipping pulley), same issue. It's probably worthwhile to verify that TDC on the pulley is actually TDC on the crank.

If it's not a cam timing or distributor timing issue, I surely don't know what it is -- no surprise, that.

What are you doing for an O2 sensor -- the 84 probably didn't have one to start with.

TinyT

it has on 02, basically the only thing 84 is block and head

other than that it is everything from the 87.

cam timing is set to perfect 12:00 when the crank pulley is at 12:00

this thing is d up and getting sold, to hell with these p.o.s. 22re's

there are far too many people with the same problems and it seems they never get solved

abecedarian

do you have the shim between the cam gear and the distributor drive gear?

TinyT

no, what is this shim you speak of

i dont recall this on my 22re motor before this one

desconhecido

With the 22R engine there is a big-assed eccentric between the distributor drive gear and the camshaft sprocket. The eccentric drives the fuel pump on the 22R engine. With the EFI modification, you are no longer using the 22R fuel pump (have removed it and installed the replacement cover and gasket, I assume) and should have replaced the big-assed eccentric with a shim. In the FSM for 22RE engines, the shim is called a "thrust plate." In the 22R FSM the big-assed eccentric is called the "fuel pump drive cam." Probably if you left the fuel pump drive cam in place, you don't need the shim.

TinyT

gotcha