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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

reasons NOT to weld on sliders? and other slider questions

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Old 09-01-2009, 05:50 AM
  #21  
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The only possible issue I forsee with having them stick out that far is the amount of leverage you're creating. I'm not sure if it would be enough to depress the frame when you come down on them, but I imagine it's possible. I'm sure you plated and reinforced your frame though. Mine are actually 2x3 square tube to the frame which should help spread out the force more than just a 1 3/4" tube.

But then again, maybe they're aren't as far out as they appear in the pictures...
Old 09-01-2009, 04:51 PM
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Does welding on the frame by chance weaken the frame metal? I was thinking having a bolt-on would give way leading to maybe partial body damage but could a welded on slider be too strong and bend the frame coming down on a rock. I'd rather deal with a little body damage than a bent or compromised frame.
Old 09-01-2009, 05:56 PM
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No, welding on a normal, passenger vehicle frame will not weaken it significantly as they are "normal" plain carbon, non heat treated steel (as opposed to tractor-trailers that use heat treated alloy steel frames that WOULD be affected by welding).

There is an additional torque applied to the frame that it is not really designed to handle. IMHO, this is why it's critical to mount the inner rail under and relatively close to the pinchweld, so that as the slider attempts to rotate up, it can transfer the load into the bodymounts and thereby the floor of the truck for extra support.
Old 09-02-2009, 08:19 AM
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Thanks TC.
Old 09-02-2009, 08:42 AM
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I have welded 2 sets on. First I cut off, with no real issues. They were weak as all get out being only .120 wall.

Second set is tucked up nice and tight with .25 wall inners and .120 DOM outer.

First set:





Second set



Old 09-02-2009, 09:17 AM
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Ike, did you make your 2nd set?
Old 09-02-2009, 10:15 AM
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Actually, he made both sets (I helped on the second set)
Old 09-02-2009, 10:43 AM
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I'm assuming the square tubing for the inner bar is much stronger? TC, did you also fab yours? I like Rocky Road's, but they're bolt on, and $400 which is pushing me towards making my own.
Old 09-02-2009, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by stock as possible
Ike, did you make your 2nd set?
Yup. As said below, TC helped on the second set by measuring and cutting my legs and main tubes, and welding one of the main tubes to the legs, as well as capping the ends.

I finished up the other one, and did all the tube work, and then welded them to the truck. They are welded on the frame using angle iron for scab plates, so they are welded on the side, and bottom of the frame for added strength.

Originally Posted by tc
Actually, he made both sets (I helped on the second set)
Many thanks again!

Originally Posted by stock as possible
I'm assuming the square tubing for the inner bar is much stronger?
Oh yes indeed. That main tube and the legs are 1/4" thick. Although, being DOM, the outer tubes are quite strong as well.
Old 09-02-2009, 03:21 PM
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A 2" square tube is stronger in bending than a 2" round tube of the same wall thickness, but it's also heavier (there's just flat out more steel in the square tube).

Isaac's 2x4x.25 is SERIOUS overkill. Like almost laughable overkill. I really like how they turned out though.

Mine are 4Crawler Ultimate - inner rail is 2x2x.188, outer is 2x2x.120 and they are holding up just fine. My rear bumper uses similar construction, but I used .120 wall on both, and it has some dents, but nothing major. The center section is a little bent, but it's pretty amazing what it took to do that ...
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