I've been terrible about making post of my work. So here goes:

Rear wheel bearing blow on drivers side and I've been plagued with water leaking into by rear axle. So good time to do some other things I've been putting off. Had been wanting to change rear shock mounts for awhile. ordered a Sky offroad upper and lower mounts. Ditch the upper mount and opt'd to do a homebrew. Using the cross tube the gas tank is mounted too.



Here is jig I made to press out bearings. I started having trouble with welder feeding wire... But that comes up later in the story.



Thanks to 4crawler's site, thank you for the site!!! I knew the gas tank crossmember would fail in time as a shock mount. So I beefed it up, using 1" 5/8 X 3/16's. Turns out the stock tube is really thin like 10 ga but being as it's designed to support 1/2ish weight of gas tank and exhaust pipe. 17 gallon of gas is approx 107lbs so 60lbs with tank weight and maybe 10lbs of the exhaust route. Picture has 1 5/8th tube in. It really show how thin the stock tube is, the tube I installed fit like a glove after lots of sanding.



I did use a piece of 1/4 to plate the outside of the tubes. Plate is installed the ground tubes flush with the plate. Was still having trouble with welder. Honestly thought it was the wire feed tensioner...



Tubes welded together. Please feel free to critique my welds. tightening the tensioner wheels did improve the welder operation a bit. When I tried to start the other side forget about it. So I did what every novice seeking information does turned to google. Next morning I replaced the liner and added another washer to the spool tensioner as I seem to have losted the grooved washer that prevents the spool turning from tightening up the spool tensioning wing nut. So welder is acting right!! But sadly now I can't blame the welder for my welds.



So despite my best efforts to change I reverted back to my no picture taking self and missed some steps. Here is the upper shock mount tacked in. I decided to be a really smart guy and use ubolts to mock mount into position for tacking. Well If you haven't made your own brackets out of 1/4 plate with only an angle grinder and now a drill press, with it takes a bit longer then one would like so hell with ubolt and used c-clamps but the tabs on top were awesome for something to clamp too. The tabs are only tacked on so will grind tacks off and remove them.



Once pressing bearings off I noticed the grooved on the seal bed. As I mentioned earlier been having a problem with water getting into rear axle to the point I had my spare in and my ARB dif having bearing replaced. So I'm not taking any chances. So...



I ordered replacements. Being as I already had the bearings and seals it was cheaper to go with TG Longs. measuring from the c-clip collar the Longs are 3/16th longer, full splined. The stock neck down to 1.217 behind the splines, the Longs 1.300 right behind the splines. The Longs taper down the shaft from bearing seat of 1.675. All measurements were taken with harbor freight calipers that have never been zero'd so...



Cutting off unused brackets and cleaning housing. Lower shock mounts are tacked on, prolly should've gone ahead and welded them on but... toy'd with idea of shaving dif but naw... I wanna keep my drain plug.

 

Got a set of Chevy 63s



Trailgear snug fit small dif armour. Was concerned about heat building up with the larger dif armour for the rear on a DD. Not very snug and road salt corrosion is a bit bigger concern than dif damage on the trail. So I trimmed it down a good bit.



I stitched it on.



I cut a relief to make massaging it with a hammer a bit easier.



Not the prettiest weld. Did have a bird cage in welder from wire unspooling. Really need to get a replacement slotted washer. Or make on after I do have a welder

Didn't get any picks of lower shock mount after welding in. Think I need to get either a better light source or better helmet as I'm really having problems seeing went welding.

 

Comparison of allpro 57" to chevy 63"


Chevy 63s cleaned up


Homebrew front hangers.


8" rear shackles, used 3/8th plate



1" solid lift blocks, I plan to weld these to spring perches after I verify pinion angle


Axle assembled with trail tough disc brakes.



So far I really like the stance. pinion angle looks good but will install Driveshaft for better reference. Axle face angle is exactly same as before.



I noticed awhile back that the 30y/o fuel lines were looking ragged so opt'd for braided stainless lines. Far cheaper though finding adapters to mate AN6 fittings to the 3 different metric connectors Toyota used was a challenge but they're out there. Set up is far cheaper than using factory lines. I'm having to relocate fuel filter, the straight and 90* AN6 hose ends were hitting knock sensor. So made a bracket to mount it to passenger fender. Had to change length of one of the lines. Don't know if this relocation will effect engine when weather gets cold. Also removed pulse dampener off fuel rail later models did not have them, want to install a fuel pressure gauge but that's a project for a later day.



This was on the passenger side forward spring mount hidden behind gas tank, the part that broke off was on the upper side didn't notice it till I went to remove it. So just a reminder to inspect your rig often. Are the greasable bolts from trailgear.


Still got loads to do:
Re-seal windsheild
replace heater core
plasti-dip dash
internal winch control
relocate winch selenoids to under hood
make a mount for supra AFM

 

Should have put and Antiwrap on while you had it out.

 

Thought about one but decided to run overload leaf so springs can't go negative.

 

fuel filter relocation. I removed the pressure dampener at fuel rail. Later models of 22re did not have the dampener, but of course pressure regulator is at other end of fuel rail and intact. Wish I had access to a exhaust analyzer smells like it is now running rich. Plan to use AFM to lean it just a tad.



Prop valve and linelock, wanted to mount them as an assembly and minimize amount of new holes drilled in inner fender. This little piece took several redesigns to get it how to work. i like working with UHMW used it for mount here and offset spacers for rear shackles (no pic).

I had to have driveshaft lengthened. only had about 1/2" of spline engagement at slip joint. So right now lots of vibrations but only driving back and forth to work. Hopefully it will be ready today.

So far really like disc brakes in rear. There is a little pad rub just at coast nothing excessive. may try some quieting tricks later. There's no excessive heat so not super worried just a bit annoying.