Quick oil question
#1
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Quick oil question
What, if any, advantages would there be to running 10w40 in 3VZE? I typically run 10w30, but figured if theres any benefit, I might as well switch.
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I've been using 15w 40 forever in all my vehicles. Rotella T. What the truckers use.
Only exception is my Volvo... I use 5w 40 synthetic Rotella T. Because it has a long pickup line... and most damage occurs in the first 5 minutes.
But everything else... 15w 40. 312K miles on the Merc... and running strong.
Just my experience.
Only exception is my Volvo... I use 5w 40 synthetic Rotella T. Because it has a long pickup line... and most damage occurs in the first 5 minutes.
But everything else... 15w 40. 312K miles on the Merc... and running strong.
Just my experience.
#4
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I see no reason to step up to 10-40. I myself run 5-30 mobil 1 synthetic when I get a real Oil pressure gauge installed I may switch to 5-20 wt. When it comes to Oil thicker is not better its usually quiet the opposite.
THIS will probably change the way you think about oil if you take the time to read it.
THIS will probably change the way you think about oil if you take the time to read it.
#6
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Well, the reason I ask is because my oil pressure drops too low at red lights. If I sit even for a couple seconds at idle, the needle drops down to the L or below. Really, the only time it appears to have pressure is on cold start. I checked my oil sender and its reading normal.
And as far as inquiring about not being within the factory oil rating, I hardly condsider 33" M/T's, lockers, winches, and stinger bumpers to be factory specification either, but they work for us. Since I haven't gotten around to getting my PhD in oil viscosity, I figured I'd ask.
And as far as inquiring about not being within the factory oil rating, I hardly condsider 33" M/T's, lockers, winches, and stinger bumpers to be factory specification either, but they work for us. Since I haven't gotten around to getting my PhD in oil viscosity, I figured I'd ask.
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#10
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Well, the reason I ask is because my oil pressure drops too low at red lights. If I sit even for a couple seconds at idle, the needle drops down to the L or below. Really, the only time it appears to have pressure is on cold start. I checked my oil sender and its reading normal.
And as far as inquiring about not being within the factory oil rating, I hardly condsider 33" M/T's, lockers, winches, and stinger bumpers to be factory specification either, but they work for us. Since I haven't gotten around to getting my PhD in oil viscosity, I figured I'd ask.
And as far as inquiring about not being within the factory oil rating, I hardly condsider 33" M/T's, lockers, winches, and stinger bumpers to be factory specification either, but they work for us. Since I haven't gotten around to getting my PhD in oil viscosity, I figured I'd ask.
- What is the oil pressure at idle ?
- What should the oil pressure be at idle ?
increasing the pressure while using the same oil will increase the oil flow but increasing the pressure by increasing the oil thickness will result in less flow. It takes more pressure to move a thicker oil. When you go to a thicker oil the pressure goes up because of the increased resistance, and therefore reduction of flow.
Fred
#11
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If you look in your owners manual, it shows the expected ranges of oil pressure for both idle and while driving and what it should look like on you oil pressure gauge.
3vze's specs say 10w30. I don't see any reason why you would need or want to deviate away from this rating unless you had specific reasons and knowledge behind them. I would run 5w30 or 0w30 if I was running in very cold climates, but otherwise I run 10w30 year round. Some people might tell you that if you're doing a lot of hard towing/hauling or lots of high RPM highway driving to consider going to a heavier running weight (the second number i.e. w40) as the hotter your oil gets, the thinner it runs. But then some will tell you this is where the thinner/recommended oil (i.e. w30) actually flows well and helps lubricate/cool better.
3vze's specs say 10w30. I don't see any reason why you would need or want to deviate away from this rating unless you had specific reasons and knowledge behind them. I would run 5w30 or 0w30 if I was running in very cold climates, but otherwise I run 10w30 year round. Some people might tell you that if you're doing a lot of hard towing/hauling or lots of high RPM highway driving to consider going to a heavier running weight (the second number i.e. w40) as the hotter your oil gets, the thinner it runs. But then some will tell you this is where the thinner/recommended oil (i.e. w30) actually flows well and helps lubricate/cool better.
#14
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I use redline full synthetic 15w-50 API SG, have better result over the 10w-40 and my pressure stay steady unlike running on 10w-40. Thicker oil help the bearing at the bottom end so will not effect changing it to 10w-40. Don't use 5w-30 because when the engine run hot the oil will run like water so the thicker the better. Friction can reduce the engine life so I use 15w-50 to retaliate that since it is at 218,000 miles. I ussually use higher oil weight by the mileage of the vehicle. But stick on what you have, changing to 10-40 will not hurt too, and I am just bieng too crazy using higher rate of oil so go with your heart tell you...
#15
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I would run 5-30, just means it will operate better under cold conditions and drasticaly changing temperatures. I dont think id run 15-40 in a 3vz unless i lived on the sun
#16
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so 0w-30 is the best i should use or just 10w-30 like ive always have? but i ran straight 40 in my neon but yet again that was a full built race motor ok im confused here
#17
As "GANOID" suggested, read this article http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics
its good. Long but good info for anyone who cares about oils.
its good. Long but good info for anyone who cares about oils.
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#20
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I use redline full synthetic 15w-50 API SG, have better result over the 10w-40 and my pressure stay steady unlike running on 10w-40. Thicker oil help the bearing at the bottom end so will not effect changing it to 10w-40. Don't use 5w-30 because when the engine run hot the oil will run like water so the thicker the better. Friction can reduce the engine life so I use 15w-50 to retaliate that since it is at 218,000 miles. I ussually use higher oil weight by the mileage of the vehicle. But stick on what you have, changing to 10-40 will not hurt too, and I am just bieng too crazy using higher rate of oil so go with your heart tell you...
You should spend some time and read up.
Almost everything that you posted is flat wrong and/or you're looking for results that you shouldn't be looking for.
Fred