Hey everyone. So my 22RE needs an overhaul and I want to make sure I have all the parts together before I start. I also figured I would gather up any useful advice while I'm at it as well.

My goal is to basically have it like new when I am done so I'm not looking to cut corners. I am planning on going down to the block which I will send to CarQuest along with the cylinder head for cleaning, boring (.02 OB?), and redeck and having the cylinder head cleaned, reseated, and the seals done.

First I guess I'll do a parts list of stuff I am pretty sure I'm gonna need and if I am missing anything let me know

Full gasket set from engnbldr
Piston and Rings from engnbldr (.02 overbore a good idea?)
Water Pump
Timing chain set (Dual Chains? Does a metal guide make noise and wear the chain?)
Cam (One of the ones from Engnbldr or a stock one from a parts place?)
Crankshaft (Replace the old one or just do the seals and bearings on it?)
Rods, Mains, Thrustwasher
Clutch set
Plugs, Cap, Rotor
Radiator and hoses
Thermostat
Fuel Filter

I'm pretty sure that's about it.

I am also looking to do an EGR Delete for sure. Does anyone have a link to a good thread that explains the block off process? I will probably just make my own plates out of 1/4" Alum or steel.

I am looking to start this pretty soon. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

sounds like this is your first motor build?

i wouldn't buy any bearings until you see what the measurements on the crank/block look like... if you have to have the crank turned, for instance, you'll need a different bearing size than if it was a stock crank.

your local carquest has a machine shop that they use?

 

Good luck with that. If you're like me (and many others on this site) you'll find (surprise!) that all the parts on your truck are 21 years old. So as you work your way through the rebuild, you will find more broken parts, and you'll break some on your own. Just off hand, I expect you're likely to find broken injector clips, and broken injector pintles.

Or not. Just be prepared to take it slowly. It sounds good to have every part you're ever going to need sitting right there when you start, but in the end you're probably a lot better off taking the engine completely apart before you order anything.

Why? You'll substantially increase your NOx output (contributing to acid rain and smog), for no improvement in performance, fuel economy, or durability. If you don't have smog checks where you live, I'll bet you still have people breathing the air. What you do is up to you, but try to have a good reason for doing it.

 

^^
I recently replaced the head gaskets on my son's 2000 Nissan Xterra. I too waited to see what I had before ordering parts. Could be fine or you could be searching for another engine. I've done some research on the EGR removal. I would look into it before removing it.

 

Ya, first motor build. I have seen it done and all and I think I know what I am getting into (Being optimistic a little too possibly) and I have a buddy who has done dozens of rebuilds on call if I get into a jam. But I would like to get it done in a 4 day period so that's why I like to have all the parts together that I am gonna need before I start.

If the crank is damaged I will likely just buy a new one. It will cost about the same to have it turned anyway so I'll go with the new bearings at that point obviously.

Ya, there are not many others around here that do machine work.

 

I am hoping that things on it are not too mucked up but if I need parts I have like 3 parts stores within 5 miles so ill have to pick them up. I am hoping just cleaning the injectors will be good because replacing them all is kinda pricey.

I am doing the EGR delete because it gets it all out of the way, makes it easier to work on, looks cleaner, less likely to have vacuum leaks, and does not gunk up the intake as much. The difference in emissions is negligible to me. Ill just plant a tree or two

 

Rebuilding an engine in 4 days isn't a problem - I've rebuilt engines within 6 hours before but I had everything I needed laid out in front of me and I am very familiar with the engines I have rebuilt. This isn't going to be the case for you being your first time AND you don't know the condition of your internals. It's not simply a matter of ordering parts and installing them - you need to know what you are working with first and that is what takes time to rebuild an engine. If your plan is to pulled the engine, rebuild it and re-install it you WILL NOT be able to do it properly in 4 days. Period. The engine needs to be disassembled so that you can check for wear and measure all of your clearances. THEN, you'll know what size bearings, pistons, rings, thrust washers, wrist pin bushings, etc. to order. It'll take a few days to get parts from Engnbldr so there goes your 4 day window. Here are the steps you need to take:

1-Break down the engine - be sure to bag and label everything you take off. Also note the bolt pattern when you remove the timing cover so you don't get the wrong bolts in the wrong holes. Also make sure you keep all the rods, pistons and bearings in the same cylinder orders.

2-Get some plastigauge and measure your existing bearing clearances. Measure the runout on your crankshaft and cam to make sure they are within spec. Measure you trust washer clearance. In most cases you can usually get away with getting std bearings. If you don't have the tools to take these measurement them take EVERYTHING to the machine shop.

3-Take the block to the machine shop and have them measure the bore wear - they'll be able to tell you what size pistons you need. BRING IT HOME, don't leave it there.

4-Order your parts - you'll have it all apart so you might as well get a new timing cover, oil pump and water pump while you're at it. Ted at Engnbldr will have everything you need - pistons, rings, rod bearings, main bearings, wrist pin bushings, wrist pins, thrust washers, valves, valve guides, valve springs, valve keepers, valve seats, camshaft, gaskets, seals, timing set, etc. if you have a single row timing chain and you want to convert to a dual row then you'll need the oil pump spline drive spacer for a dual row setup. LCE has those.

5-While you're waiting for your parts to come in, might as well do some cleaning and painting.

6-When your parts come in take your pistons, rods, wristpins, wristpin bushings, block (WITH JOURNAL CAPS AND BOLTS - very important so the bore is cut straight), timing cover and rear main seal retainer to the machine shop. A good machine shop will bore your cylinders to match your pistons exactly, fit your wristpins in your rods and pistions, deck the block (timing cover MUST be installed when the block is decked deck)

7-If the machine shop is doing your head work then drop off all the head parts with the head.

8-If you have a reputable machine shop, they will likely be too busy to turn your machine work around in a day. I know my machinist personally and it still takes a week to get my stuff back!

9- Once you get everything back, it is just a matter of following the FSM to reassemble. Follow the torque specs!

Couple of assembly note:
-You're going to need some speciality tools - ring compressor, valve compressor, feeler gauges, seal pullers, torque wrench, timing light, piston ring grinder/files, etc
-Use a GOOD moly assembly lube
-Don't do this mess you hear about packing the oil pump with vasaline or grease so it primes when you start it. Asesembly lube works fine and will not contaminate your oil - that process is among the stupidest things I've ever heard.
-Use Joe Gibbs break-in conventional oil (no synthetics) or a zinc additive for your first oil fill up
-Metal timing chain guides are the only way to go for durability
-When you go to start it for the first time follow the start up procedure by 22Reperformance.com - very good guide for new guys.

It really isn't a difficult task and the 22R/RE is the easiest motor I have ever built. It's not ambitious of you to want to do it, but it is rather ambitious for you to want to tackle it in 4 days on your first rebuild. Plan on your truck being down for about a week or two. Good luck!

 

Oh and desmogging is the way to go if you want to get rid of that vacuum bird nest and clogged emissions. My engine runs a lot better without emissions. I have a desmog tutorial - link is in my signature below. It's for a 22R but much of the plates and their locations are the same as a 22RE

 

Good sound advice ^^^^

Impossible to order parts to you know just what you have.

You need a nice clean area to assemble the engine .

Though some get built in chicken coups but the chasing the roosting chickens off gets old .

I have only ever used Assembly lube to prime the oil pump I have no idea where the packing it in grease came from.

Perhaps some how misquoted for a new rebuild going in long term storage years plus who can say.

 

I used to block off or remove the EGR on the 22re. Now I think on the 22re, it actually might be a good thing as it actually makes the motor run cooler by putting warm exhaust gases into the combustion cycle which actually cools the burn and might be one of the reasons these motors run so long. You tend to get less engine codes with the EGR hooked up and it really doesnt take much more space. It takes me a couple of hours to clean out the Intake system on a 22re and takes several thousands of miles to get carbon build up in it.

On a 22r motor with a Weber and all emissions removed, I think that is a good thing as it does make a 22r so much better in my experience. This winter I am building a 22r motor following Kawazk636 build advice. The three motors set up like his that I know practically have no more issues compared to the fuel injected motors.

It seems to me that states that have more emission rules seem to have more problems with enviromental issues, cost, ownership, drought, air quality... The one issue that concerns me http://animals.howstuffworks.com/mam...ethane-cow.htm , cow farts. I have yet to see a ladder tall enough to get up there and measure the ozone but some scientist says it is true so must be. I am now eating more steak trying to reduce the number of cattle there by reducing their emissions. Each person is going to have their own views on emissions. You just have to decide what seems best for you.

As far as buying your parts, I would wait until you get your block back. You will get something like .10/.20/.20 Meaning that your block was bored .10 over, your piston rods is .20 over and main bearings is .20 over.

I have rebuilt several motors but I prefer to buy a rebuilt motor as you get some kind of warranty and for the cost of rebuilding one you can buy one. The advantage of building one is you can buy performance parts and build it yourself to what you want. Just giving you another way of thinking. Building one does normally take a considerable amount of time. I personally allow a good month on rebuilding a motor from start to finish. Machine shop time, ordering parts and assembly all add up. While waiting on shop and parts, there is a ton of cleaning and measuring to do.

To hear a motor run that you did build yourself is a great experience and when you are driving it down the road, that feeling is still with you everytime you hear it run.

 

That's what I got from research on the EGR. I agree, I would build a carb like Kaw636. Reading his thread he said something that is 30 years old and not working got me thinking. I checked the emission stuff this morning, everything is working!

 

I was just joking around on the cow emissions but on a 22re, from my own experience, I feel it is best to leave it hooked up. I feel you will have a whole lot less issues trying to bypass it. It doesnt take much to clean up the carbon from it and will be a long time before it needs done again.

On carbed motors, with the emissions off of it and the carburator is tuned right, they put out very little emissions. I rebuilt a Ford 289 motor and carb and was living in California at the time. It passed the emissions sniff test with flying colors and I had plenty of room to spare on the numbers. They failed me because I did not have the emissions equipment on it but the numbers were great. I installed the equipment on it and then passed. After they passed me, I then removed it.

 

Thanks for the input guys. Kawazx, I really appreciate that detailed write up, will definitely help out.
The hard part is that I have 2 vehicles. The truck, and my motorcycle. I work an hour away from where I live and usually have like 4 days off in a row which is why I initially wanted to get it done in those 4 days. Nut now I don't think that is very realistic
Another option was to buy a used one and redo that, then swap it and redo the one I have and sell it or something after.
Where do you guys recommend finding a 22RE floating around?

 

I have bought two motors and know of two other motors from a company out of Compton California. All have been great motors. I can not think of the name at the time but I see them on ebay sometimes. It is $895 on sale. With shipping, tax and core it tends to bump the price to $1200-1300 if I recall right. A bone stock motor but they have been great for me.

 

Would this be them Terrys87?

http://unitedengine.com/

 

any opinions on junkyark blocks?
If I can get a short block from a yard and get it remachined with new pistons, rings, bearing and all that I should be able to do all that with the truck running than Ill do the swap over with all the stuff from the old engine into the remanned one then maybe rebuild that one too and resell.

My main issue is having the truck down for a long period and also moving parts around from the shop and back being that my only other vehicle only and 2 wheels and no trunk

Any advice on looking for short blocks at yards?

 

Grumpin..United Engine is who I bought my motors from and I have nothing but good things to say about them. Really happy with the ones I got. They dont always require a core. I got one for $1100 total at one time.

Iceman..Depending on price and if the yard will let you bring it back if it is unbuildable. If you can pull the pan off in the yard and get a good look at the bottom end and see if there is any damage to the piston, rods, crank. Visual is only going to go so far but better then nothing.

Dont be surprised at pieces of plastic in the pan, probably from broken timing chain guides from the past and wont hurt anything. Pulling the crankshaft pulley and head is probably not feasible while in the yard to see the top of the motor.

Check your local craigslist for blocks as well. Make sure you dont get an 84 or older block. Those cant be converted to fuel injection. You need 85 or newer. The quickest way to tell 85 and up is there will be a place for a Knock Sensor and a Fuel Filter mount on passenger side. 22r series motors come in two different styles. 84 an older and 85 and newer.

You can use a 22r motor that is 85 or newer. I think 92 was the last year of carbed motors but could be wrong, but it is the same motor just needs the EFI things added to it.

 

Ya it would be nice to find a used block to reman because a crate long block is a little pricey for me.

 

If you live in my local area, I have one in the shop that I just want to get rid of you could just have. It has a score in the cylinder and will need to be bored over. My last rebuild, I had to bore over and the cost basically was 300 for machine work, 300 for parts and 300 for a new head. Reason I did build my last one was I could do it in smaller steps at a time.

Post an ad on craiglist and others in your area probably have one laying around they would get rid of.

 

There is one in my area I can get for 365 bucks. Carquest quoted between 400 and 500 bucks for basic work, but if it needs to be decked, bored, or any major work it may get to 700 or 800.
United Engine does not ship to my area in FL (wierd) but it was 1200 without shipping so I would imagine like 1500 with shipping.
Trying to weigh my choices now.

What are the odds of the block needing to be completely redone? I know it all depends on the past owner, but what do the odds favor?