Question for the ROLL ON PAINT experts (if expert is the word)
#1
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Question for the ROLL ON PAINT experts (if expert is the word)
I am getting ready to hit this up now that the weather is cooperating, I have researched and feel comfortable, my question is -
How many coats can be done in a day? I have read the process takes about a week, but I want to try and crunch it in about 3. I am going to be doing in about mid 60's low 70's tempurature and with little to no humidity.
I want to do about 8-10 coats, can I do 3 in a day? Also, the dillusion rate for rolling should be what parts paint and what parts mineral spirits? I read it should be the consistency of millk?
Any help would be appreciated!
How many coats can be done in a day? I have read the process takes about a week, but I want to try and crunch it in about 3. I am going to be doing in about mid 60's low 70's tempurature and with little to no humidity.
I want to do about 8-10 coats, can I do 3 in a day? Also, the dillusion rate for rolling should be what parts paint and what parts mineral spirits? I read it should be the consistency of millk?
Any help would be appreciated!
#2
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I think you would be better off going with a spray on system. If you are willing to spend three days doing something, you could be fairly successful doing a spray on job in that time. At the bare minimum you could buy the DupliColor Paint shop premixed paint from Autozone and go to town. A day of prep, a day of painting and a day of color sanding. In my opinion that would be easier and look better than anything rolled. Eric
#3
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I think you would be better off going with a spray on system. If you are willing to spend three days doing something, you could be fairly successful doing a spray on job in that time. At the bare minimum you could buy the DupliColor Paint shop premixed paint from Autozone and go to town. A day of prep, a day of painting and a day of color sanding. In my opinion that would be easier and look better than anything rolled. Eric
#4
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Here's the thread that got me to thinking about rolling on my next paint job.
Hope it helps. It's a long read, but helpful and informative.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
Hope it helps. It's a long read, but helpful and informative.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
#5
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i've been thinking alot about paint here lately too!...
what im probably going to do..is hit up MAACO!...im going to get them to spray the truck JET black..and i mean a DEEEEEP DARRRKKKK black...but no clearcoat
no, im going to a local paint and body shop for the clear coat..because he does GREAT buisiness..and his stuff lasts for 15+ years..yea..he has rigs that he sprayed that long ago..that STILL look as good as the day he sprayed em..
the problem with MAACO is their clear coat (or so i've heard) its not the paint...its the clear coat..
so why not get them to paint it...then clear coat it somewhere else..that would be awesome!
what im probably going to do..is hit up MAACO!...im going to get them to spray the truck JET black..and i mean a DEEEEEP DARRRKKKK black...but no clearcoat
no, im going to a local paint and body shop for the clear coat..because he does GREAT buisiness..and his stuff lasts for 15+ years..yea..he has rigs that he sprayed that long ago..that STILL look as good as the day he sprayed em..
the problem with MAACO is their clear coat (or so i've heard) its not the paint...its the clear coat..
so why not get them to paint it...then clear coat it somewhere else..that would be awesome!
#6
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i would be careful there is the distinct possibility that there would be an adverse reaction to mixing paint systems. if it wrinkles you have just wasted your money at maaco and now you have to have that problem fixed before you pay to have it painted again. the best advice i can give if you are not going to do it yourself is to do all the prep work yourself and have if sprayed at the shop. then you can reinstall everything yourself and save a ton on labor. the longevity of paint has everything to do with maintence and the quality of material initially used.
if you want to do that many coats in one day you will not be able to use mineral spirits as a reducer. you need to get a lower temp reducer from the paint manufacturer to match the temp you will be working in. not sure about the ratio for roll on stuff just check with the manufacturer. there is another guy doing a roll on paint project at this moment, check it out it is titled $150 paint job.
if you want to do that many coats in one day you will not be able to use mineral spirits as a reducer. you need to get a lower temp reducer from the paint manufacturer to match the temp you will be working in. not sure about the ratio for roll on stuff just check with the manufacturer. there is another guy doing a roll on paint project at this moment, check it out it is titled $150 paint job.
Last edited by wheatus; 03-21-2009 at 05:46 PM.
#7
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Their paint sucks. The people painting your truck have no previous job experience other than McDonalds. Most people don't get a clear coat because they don't know any better and Maaco charges out the ass.
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#9
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an HVLP sprayer kit at Harbor frieght costs 59.99. If you have an air compressor i'd but that. if you don't, borrow someone elses and buy that. roll on paint can work but doesn't last long and it'll be hard to get into small places. if you want info on roll on paint with rustoleum go to "http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/details.html" hot rod magazine uses rustoleum and a roller and do a pretty good job.
#11
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All Maaco does is sand lightly with 400 grit and wipe the vehicle down with alcahol, sometimes the employee's skip those steps, if you want a good paint job PREP PREP PREP PREP PREP. I scuffed my whole truck with 3M scuff pads and wiped it down with paint thinner and my paint is holdin on like a mother 'effer Trust me, I work in a body shop..
#12
from what ive heard / seen, any painting will do the trick if you spend quality time on the prep work. If you sand between layers, rolling or spraying will give you a decent paint job... just take your time and do it right.
#13
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i've been thinking alot about paint here lately too!...
what im probably going to do..is hit up MAACO!...im going to get them to spray the truck JET black..and i mean a DEEEEEP DARRRKKKK black...but no clearcoat
no, im going to a local paint and body shop for the clear coat..because he does GREAT buisiness..and his stuff lasts for 15+ years..yea..he has rigs that he sprayed that long ago..that STILL look as good as the day he sprayed em..
the problem with MAACO is their clear coat (or so i've heard) its not the paint...its the clear coat..
so why not get them to paint it...then clear coat it somewhere else..that would be awesome!
what im probably going to do..is hit up MAACO!...im going to get them to spray the truck JET black..and i mean a DEEEEEP DARRRKKKK black...but no clearcoat
no, im going to a local paint and body shop for the clear coat..because he does GREAT buisiness..and his stuff lasts for 15+ years..yea..he has rigs that he sprayed that long ago..that STILL look as good as the day he sprayed em..
the problem with MAACO is their clear coat (or so i've heard) its not the paint...its the clear coat..
so why not get them to paint it...then clear coat it somewhere else..that would be awesome!
Maaco cuts down on prep, because prep takes time... lots of it!
They need to cut the hours down to give it to you cheap(ish).
They use single stage paint IIRC.. Do your prep yourself, and then get them to spray it. I remember reading up that they actually do use good quality paint products..
#14
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I have seen roller paint jobs and if the prep work is done right it looks good, I seen a lot of old timers do the roller paint jobs. One that comes to mind was a ford model a and wow that was a jaw dropper paint job perfect, no peel just the reflection of my drooling face.
#16
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#17
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Is that paint splotchy in areas?? Or does it look like the tailgate shot you sent?
#18
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there are pros and cons to every approach, i use rattle cans because i live in the midwest and the body on my truck is mostly rust. i also like it because i keep a can in the truck for instant touch ups. the down side to rattle cans is longevity the paint just does not have enough solids to hold up for very long. i didnt even bother to sand mine as rattle cans are laquer based and work by softening the substrate chemically. rolling on paint should give good results as long a you use a quality paint in a solid color. you will never get a metallic to look right with a roller. also to get professional-like results it is probably going to take 2-3times as long with all the time you spend waiting in between coats and the final sand and buff. with single stage enamels that you are using the most important thing is maintenance for longevity you will probably need to be waxing at least once a month or more if you are in constant sun or salty conditions, coastal or winter related, to protect the enamel. you will also have to be careful with any type of solvents such as gasoline, brake fluid, or brake cleaner. it will eat into enamel very quickly. basecoat/clearcoat is the all around best but probably the most expensive and requires the most thorough prep work. it is very durable and will last a long time without much maintenance but this is also dependent upon the quality of material used and the prep job. as long as you are not expecting show quality results and just looking for something servicable i wouldn't hesitate to use rollers or spray cans before thinking about MAACO.
#20
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About 4.50 a can, and I bought ten cans. I used two big scotchbrite pads to scuff the whole truck, and some paint thinner to wipe it down with before spraying, save your newspaper for a while and buy to 2" wide things of blue/green masking tape.. Prolly sixty bucks maybe? If that...