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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Pulled intake manifold to connect knock sensor, running horrible now

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Old 12-15-2016, 06:39 AM
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Not sure what you mean by "the timing mark keeps spinning"? Its possible that the keyway holding the harmonic balancer on has sheared off which would make your timing mark dance all over the place. That would be my guess on that if this is what you mean by "keeps spinning". The "loom" is just the plastic cover that protects and keeps your wires. Also double check that your firing order is correct, the right plug wires going to the correct cylinder in relation to the distributor.

Last edited by ChinkTruck; 12-15-2016 at 06:43 AM.
Old 12-15-2016, 07:06 AM
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While all 6 injectors fire at the same time, they are wired into two banks of three. ("#10" and "#20"). If plug-wire testing really produces the pattern you described, it sure sounds like a problem in the #10 wire to the 1-3-5 injectors (or the output of the ECM, but much more likely just a wiring issue).
Old 12-15-2016, 08:30 AM
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Im gonna get a noid light and check the injectors today. And the timing mark moves counter clock wise around the harmonic balancer. It never sets still like it should.
Old 12-15-2016, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Samrider789
Im gonna get a noid light and check the injectors today. And the timing mark moves counter clock wise around the harmonic balancer. It never sets still like it should.
a timing light only tells you that the plug wire is getting charge at top dead center of the #1 cylinder, it doesnt know if fuel is actually present. So assuming your doing it right, most have a alligator clip that goes to the positive battery connector and you clip the other lead to the #1 plug wire and the timing mark should stay in one spot, if its not either your keyway is sheared on the harmonic balancer, or your distributor is shot, or firing order is plugged in wrong.
Old 12-15-2016, 09:01 AM
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Another question, did you remove the distributor when you pulled the intake? If so this could be the issue, if it didnt get set back in correctly it will cause bad timing. The rotor has to be in the correct position with #1 cylinder at TDC.
Old 12-15-2016, 10:04 AM
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I didn't remove the distributor but not saying it wasn't messed up when I got the truck. I am thinking its the distributor more and more. After today I will know if it's injectors or timing
Old 12-15-2016, 03:14 PM
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So this evening I checked the fuel injector with a noid light and they are all firing. Put new seals on the injectors and tested the whole vaccum system and intake with a smoke machine and found no leaks. All new plugs and checked compression on all cyclinders and were all around 165 or 170. At this point I am lost. Next I guess I'm gonna order a new ditributor and hope that's the problem.
Old 12-16-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Samrider789
So this evening I checked the fuel injector with a noid light and they are all firing. Put new seals on the injectors and tested the whole vaccum system and intake with a smoke machine and found no leaks. All new plugs and checked compression on all cyclinders and were all around 165 or 170. At this point I am lost. Next I guess I'm gonna order a new ditributor and hope that's the problem.
look on the bright side, you have solid leak free engine with strong compression on all cylinders, dont give in. Hope its your distributor but if not pull and check your harmonic balancer, I cant think of another reason to cause this.
Old 12-18-2016, 12:27 PM
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So with it running on 3 cyclindrs I took it to a friend that's a mechanic. He checked everything on the fire side and it all checked out good. Think it is just a coincidence that when I was cleaning up the injectors when I had the intake off that I clogged three of them. Out of options and ideas and listening to my friend I ordered a set of injectors. Hopefully this gets me running!
Old 12-18-2016, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Samrider789
Also forgot to add I have a throttle position sensor circuit code 41
check the TPS to make sure it's hooked up correctly. replace it if necessary.

Originally Posted by Samrider789
I can't check the timing because the mark just keeps spinning.
the timing mark is supposed to spin. you need a timing light.

Originally Posted by Samrider789
I'm assuming it has enough pressure because the cold start injector line has plenty.
with this many problems, it's probably not helpful to assume anything. all the fuel lines may not be hooked up correctly. the CSI connects at a different point.

Originally Posted by Samrider789
What do you mean by the loom?
a "loom" is a wiring loom; a bundle of wrapped wires. in this application, it goes from one side of the engine to the other between the valve cover ends & the timing belt cover.

Originally Posted by Samrider789
How do you squirt test an injector?
http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...90injector.pdf

you should definitely take advantage of these:
http://www.ether3al.com/93fsm-mobile
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_90-...l/contents.htm
Old 12-19-2016, 02:23 PM
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Need to still check the tps. I'm not stupid I am using a timing light but the mark just keeps jumping around the harmonic balancer counter clockwise. The cold start injector hooks right to the fuel rail and the fuel lines are pretty self explanatory the way they run. Got the loom straight earlier in the post but thanks for that and the other sites
Old 12-20-2016, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Samrider789
Need to still check the tps. I'm not stupid I am using a timing light but the mark just keeps jumping around the harmonic balancer counter clockwise. The cold start injector hooks right to the fuel rail and the fuel lines are pretty self explanatory the way they run. Got the loom straight earlier in the post but thanks for that and the other sites
You need to tell the computer you are setting the timing. Jumper the test port and it shifts to fixed timings.

Sorry I am not a good as some of the other seem at dechipering typographical errors and auto correct gone wrong..

You have spark at all six plugs? Injector signals are there also? Double triple check the firing order?
Old 12-20-2016, 02:57 AM
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I'm not clear how you went from "running rich, burns my eyes" to I'm not getting combustion the injectors must be clogged, to ordering parts with out testing the ones you had any of the times you've had them out?.

Grab a manual at the local parts store, or poke around online for a factory service manual. It's way cheaper than throwing parts at it and hoping and less frustrating.

In short if you can blow thru the injector it's stuck open and gonna leak, if you don't read a closed circuit between the terminals it's fried the wires and not going to open.

Hmm a simple to overlook thing would be the ground strap I guess but I didn't thing you went that deep, and even with out one on the head there are other less direct paths for the plugs to fire/ground
Old 12-24-2016, 05:51 PM
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So finally I fixed it. When I pulled the intake I never took the timing belt cover off so I didn't see that when I pulled the tensioner pulley off that bolts to the intake that the valve timing jumped about 5 teeth off. Set the valve timing and runs perfect. Thank you all for the help!



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