Pulled intake manifold to connect knock sensor, running horrible now
#1
Pulled intake manifold to connect knock sensor, running horrible now
So I bought a 91 pickup with the v6 in pretty good shape for cheap because it wasn't running. One fuse and a wire connector later thanks to this sight the o2 censor has stopped blowing the efi fuse. Once running the cel was on and throwing the knock sensor code, turns out the shop that did the heads never plugged it in and left the plug under the intake. I pulled the intake and put a new pigtail on since the old one was crap and put the motor back together. Now the cel is off but the truck is running horrible. Seems to run really rich to me, burning my eyes starting it in my garage, plus it has zero power and will almost choke out from idle if you give to much throttle at once. Any ideas on what I could have put back wrong or what's going on? Thanks in advance!!!
#2
So I bought a 91 pickup with the v6 in pretty good shape for cheap because it wasn't running. One fuse and a wire connector later thanks to this sight the o2 censor has stopped blowing the efi fuse. Once running the cel was on and throwing the knock sensor code, turns out the shop that did the heads never plugged it in and left the plug under the intake. I pulled the intake and put a new pigtail on since the old one was crap and put the motor back together. Now the cel is off but the truck is running horrible. Seems to run really rich to me, burning my eyes starting it in my garage, plus it has zero power and will almost choke out from idle if you give to much throttle at once. Any ideas on what I could have put back wrong or what's going on? Thanks in advance!!!
#5
I never had the timing belt off with the intake but I can check to make sure timing is ok. With knock unplugged the truck ran better then what it does now. I even tried unplugging the knock sensor again to make sure it wasnt that.
#6
yeah it would but would still make it run like garbage, plus with efi, maf and o2 sensors kick in and tell the computer to over compensate fuel so you still get excess fuel odour. Checking code is always a good idea. Check the basics too, plug wires, o2 sensor plugged in. Etc.
Last edited by ChinkTruck; 12-11-2016 at 05:02 PM.
#7
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Plus, you don't know if the ignition timing was correct any time you have owned the truck.
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#10
Are there any specific vaccum lines I should check? I followed the diagram on the hood for the three lines on that and found pictures on the internet for the lines going to the ac idle air and the power steering. I am pretty positive those are correct. Just so y'all know this is the first time I have messed with a Toyota so anything obvious don't hesitate to say it haha
#15
Ditto what robert said, thats wierd that one whole side of the engine isn't getting spark, this would make me suspect the distributor is shot, or maybe cap and rotor, check the rotor and contacts under the cap, if they're fried on that side it could be whats causing it. Find it hard to believe 3 plugs or plug wires went bad all at once but you never know?
#16
Sorry I think I confused by saying firing. They have spark all the way to the plug but just make zero difference when you pull even all three off the cap at once. Also when I try to check the timing the mark just keeps moving around the pulley. I pulled the plenum back off to check the injector plugs and tried cranking it over to see if I could see fuel but I couldn't tell looking down the intake.
#17
The only thing I can think of that would do that would be if I didn't get the lower intake down all the way on that side and its pulling air but the carb cleaner doesn't seem to make any difference no matter where I spray it.
#18
it's a safe assumption there is air in the cylinder, so if there is spark, that leaves fuel.
check the timing, fuel rail/regulator, make sure that side of the loom for the injectors isn't cut.
if you already have the plenum off, you can squirt-test an injector.
check the timing, fuel rail/regulator, make sure that side of the loom for the injectors isn't cut.
if you already have the plenum off, you can squirt-test an injector.
#20
I can't check the timing because the mark just keeps spinning. I'm assuming it has enough pressure because the cold start injector line has plenty. What do you mean by the loom? How do you squirt test an injector?