The87Man

Hey guys this is gonna kind of be a long post. Sorry if some parts sound weird or I wrote something wrong in a way its hard to understand.
Im doing a frame off resto on my 85 pickup.
I had the engine rebuilt by a reputable shop near my place, so i just have a few questions now.

I will be installing all the parts back on, (Timing cover, Oil pump, Water pump, valve cover, all the coolant hoses and lines that mount onto the block, intake manifold, and air intake chamber)

I got all brand new oem parts either from Toyota Or AISIN like the water pump, oil pump, and timing cover is all AISIN.
I've done a lot of reading on this topic, on the gaskets that go on the timing cover I've heard people use toyota fipg or the right stuff i think, on both sides of the gasket? I think that's correct right?
On the oil pump just to make it easier during prime trim just put white lithium grease/ Vaseline on the gears, then there is one bolt on the oil pump that needs to be covered in RTV on the last few threads right?
Also I think I saw a YouTube video some guys said the oem gasket for the oil pump is kind of thin and tends to leak after a while? So they put like rtv or they covered it in oil? thoughts on that? I cant remember if it was oil or like a rtv they put on the gasket.
Then on the water pump I think its straight forward you just install it onto the timing cover but the longer bolt put some rtv/thread sealant on the last few threads?

I will be going with the route, putting the timing cover on then the oil pan. In the FSM they say to put rtv on the corners of the Head Gasket? Thin layer if I remember correctly

Sorry again guys if it sounds like a bunch of gibberish, just tryan do it right one time and not worry about leaks.
Please let me know on any recommendations y'all might have or tips and tricks during this job.

Jimkola

FIPG is intended to be used instead of a gasket. Don't do both.
When I did the same work you're doing I installed timing cover and waterpump using the paper gaskets and GaskaCinch. Swabs on, easy to use, great job of holding gaskets in place. Residual clean up is easy, too.

There's one bolt on the oil pump that uses thread sealant. It would be the top most bolt(12:00) on the pump. Toyota recommends Threebond 1324 or equivalent. I'd probably use the blue Threadlocker (medium strength)
You could use on the timing cover, too. though i don't recall any recommendations about that in the FSM. Same with the waterpump.

Yes, the oil pump is one of the more common leaks on the 22R#. You got both the O-ring for the oil pump itself, along with the front crank seal pressed into the front.
Personally, with sealing the oil pump I don't use anything but the O-ring. If you added fipg to the oil pump mating surface to improve the seal you'll inadvertently compromise the O-ring. Fipg has a thickness to it. That film of fipg will prevent the O-ring from being fully compressed between the timing cover and the pump. So by using fipg you will probably lose one seal while creating another. And you still have the crank seal.

One cool trick is when installing the timing chain. Getting the timing chain sprocket onto the cam isn't easy. in fact, a downright pain. But if you put a socket with a long breaker bar(any long bar that is locked in both directions) on the crank pulley and move it SLIGHTLY back and forth a few times while using a pry bar to lift on the cam sprocket you'll feel the chain tensioner suddenly lose pressure and you'll have the slack you need to slide the sprocket onto the end of the cam.

Yes, Toyota does recommend a small dab of fipg be placed on the joints where the timing cover mates up to the block just before you drop the head on. Very little needed.

If your gasket kit came with an oil pan gasket I wouldn't use. Toyota's fipg is the best for that. Just make sure there there's ZERO oil residue on any surface when using fipg.

When I dropped my engine in I had installed everything i could. Even the power steering pump, fan blade, and alternator.

If you're using a three wheel engine stand be careful when you rotate the engine when doing the oil pan. It's gonna be tippy.

millball

A tip I would give is to tighten the bolt that goes through the head, down into the timing cover, before tightening any of the other timing cover bolts.
It is easy to crack the top boss on the timing cover otherwise.

mechkw

DO NOT go crazy with the sealant, it just takes a thin film to get the job done. I use either the grey or black ultra silicone. Sometimes none at all depending on whats going together. A lot of times you just need the gasket to stay in place while you bolt things down. When doing this I use gaska-cinch. It is a light tacky cement that will stick to itself if you apply to both the gasket and the surface you're attaching to .

toyoda addict

If you don't want leaks, my advice is to buy a complete oem toyota engine gasket set. Also, aluminum half moons from 22reperformance. Toyota gaskets are top notch, they are worth the extra cost.

The87Man

Yes i did that. I got the complete oem toyota gasket kit, then the half moons I already bought from jim 22reraceworks.

osv

i had that happen to me, it was super irritating, i don't know if the seal was factory toyota or what, but it wasn't holding pressure... when it's dripping badly you are faced with having to figure out if the leak is from the oil pump seal or the crank seal, it's a pia and i'll never again depend on the factory seal by itself... on an old engine you'll want to know if it's a crank seal in order to determine if the sealing surface on the crank is going to be a problem, aka grooved from wear for instance.

the way oil pumps work is that pressure is lost in the gap between the flat surface of the gears and the case; it gets worse with wear, and you don't want to increase the gap by packing the wrong junk in around the seal... gasgacinch is wonderful, i used to use it on aircooled vw engines, i can't find it in the garage so i must have used an rtv on it, this stuff for instance is supposed to rock:
degrease both sides of the oil pump frame, what i did was then put a thin layer of the rtv around the outside of the oil pump seal, on the flat surface so it gets compressed like the seal does, but not directly in the seal groove... as the seal smashes down it will widen out and probably fill the groove to some extent.

of course prime the pump as you indicated, but never with grease it's too thick; pre-fill the oil filter as much as possible but it's difficult because of the stupid design that has the filter in the horizontal position... before initial startup, turn the engine over to pump for oil pressure, but with the plugs out and pull the fuse that operates the fuel pump beforehand.

you are then going to have to decide what engine break-in procedure to use.