Post BJ Spacer/OME T-Bar ALIGNMENT Q's...
#1
Post BJ Spacer/OME T-Bar ALIGNMENT Q's...
Hey there omnipotent and all-knowing Y.T...
...it's good to be back.
I'm working on all manor of things on the RoCkEt at the moment (Hella Rallye LED Conversion, 4.56 V6 gear swap, custom headliner install, carpet replacement, Amazon snorkel fitting... etc.)But... this doesn't stop my desire for as much lift as I can eek out of my IFS to clear larger tires, yet still fit in my garage!
SET-UP INFO:
I've already replaced (+/- 150mi) the Upper and Lower ball joints with OEM Toyota parts, as well as the TRE's, Sway-Bar bushings, and Idler Arm. The shocks (KYB Monomax's) are at 50K, and are shimmed accordingly for the BJ lift. I have a lifetime alignment with the folks at Wheelworks if need be. CURRENTLY, the truck rides on near new 265/75/R17 tires (32.5" wheels) on FJ Cruiser steel rims.
PROBLEM:
I installed 1.5" BJ spacers, and Old Man Emu HD Torsion Bars this week, but can't seem to get the front end aligned right! Specifically, I have too much CASTER on the passenger side, and it keeps the vehicle pulling to the right.
QUESTION:
1) I understand that BJ spacers cause the wheels to have issues with CAMBER, right? Meaning; the truck's wheels will be wearing more quickly on the INSIDE or OUTSIDE edge than without BJ spacers.
2) IF I remove the BJ spacers, do I regain straight up-down travel in the front wheels if I crank the Torsion Bars to get the same lift height?
[U] 3) Is it possible to get bigger caster/camber adjusting washers for the IFS crossmember? If so, any leads? This may solve my problem without needing to undo my work thus far!
ANY INFO OR ADVICE IS APPRECIATED!
FINAL THOUGHTS / CAVEATS:
I've lurked many threads on the (contested) topic of BJ spacers vs T-bars for modest front end lifts...
Essentially, I'm trying to avoid prematurely cooking the inboard side of my tires, if possible, while having a 1.5" max lift up front... I don't mind a "rough" or "stiff" front end, as I have an ARB and M8000 up there.
SOME LINKS I CONTEMPLATED:
A Tire Conversion Chart (to ensure clearance)
T-Bar lift and CV Angle issues
A YT thread about OME T-Bars and lack of Droop Travel
Someone else with BJ Spacer alignment issues on Y.T.
BiG UpS FrOm OaKlAnD!
...it's good to be back.
I'm working on all manor of things on the RoCkEt at the moment (Hella Rallye LED Conversion, 4.56 V6 gear swap, custom headliner install, carpet replacement, Amazon snorkel fitting... etc.)But... this doesn't stop my desire for as much lift as I can eek out of my IFS to clear larger tires, yet still fit in my garage!
SET-UP INFO:
I've already replaced (+/- 150mi) the Upper and Lower ball joints with OEM Toyota parts, as well as the TRE's, Sway-Bar bushings, and Idler Arm. The shocks (KYB Monomax's) are at 50K, and are shimmed accordingly for the BJ lift. I have a lifetime alignment with the folks at Wheelworks if need be. CURRENTLY, the truck rides on near new 265/75/R17 tires (32.5" wheels) on FJ Cruiser steel rims.
PROBLEM:
I installed 1.5" BJ spacers, and Old Man Emu HD Torsion Bars this week, but can't seem to get the front end aligned right! Specifically, I have too much CASTER on the passenger side, and it keeps the vehicle pulling to the right.
QUESTION:
1) I understand that BJ spacers cause the wheels to have issues with CAMBER, right? Meaning; the truck's wheels will be wearing more quickly on the INSIDE or OUTSIDE edge than without BJ spacers.
2) IF I remove the BJ spacers, do I regain straight up-down travel in the front wheels if I crank the Torsion Bars to get the same lift height?
[U] 3) Is it possible to get bigger caster/camber adjusting washers for the IFS crossmember? If so, any leads? This may solve my problem without needing to undo my work thus far!
ANY INFO OR ADVICE IS APPRECIATED!
FINAL THOUGHTS / CAVEATS:
I've lurked many threads on the (contested) topic of BJ spacers vs T-bars for modest front end lifts...
Essentially, I'm trying to avoid prematurely cooking the inboard side of my tires, if possible, while having a 1.5" max lift up front... I don't mind a "rough" or "stiff" front end, as I have an ARB and M8000 up there.
SOME LINKS I CONTEMPLATED:
A Tire Conversion Chart (to ensure clearance)
T-Bar lift and CV Angle issues
A YT thread about OME T-Bars and lack of Droop Travel
Someone else with BJ Spacer alignment issues on Y.T.
BiG UpS FrOm OaKlAnD!
#2
Personal experience only here:
- Never had trouble with alignment after BJ spacer install
- Have tried OME and SAW torsion bars. Even with a big ARB & M6000 winch, I went back to stock bars for ride quality.
- Only alignment issue was when I put new control arm bushings in. The shop just couldn't get it aligned. I took it to a better mechanic, he spent a couple of hours dialing it in and got it aligned. Now the tire shop can tweak it back in when needed.
(Speaking of alignments, ever since I installed the SDORI frame brace, moderate wheeling never seemed to knock it out of alignment!)
- Never had trouble with alignment after BJ spacer install
- Have tried OME and SAW torsion bars. Even with a big ARB & M6000 winch, I went back to stock bars for ride quality.
- Only alignment issue was when I put new control arm bushings in. The shop just couldn't get it aligned. I took it to a better mechanic, he spent a couple of hours dialing it in and got it aligned. Now the tire shop can tweak it back in when needed.
(Speaking of alignments, ever since I installed the SDORI frame brace, moderate wheeling never seemed to knock it out of alignment!)
#3
Right on!
I feel like I'll try with Wheelworks and see what they do... I'm not convinced in my ability to align this thing.
Anyhow... I'm in Oakland. Who're you using for alignment?
#7
UPDATES:
I took the truck to Wheelworks this morning (Firestone subsidiary), and they COULD NOT get it aligned right. Whatever pull I had before is MUCH more serious now...
DETAILS:
BEFORE my first post here were the specs I had on alignment:
LEFT FRONT had 1.0 Camber, 0.8 Caster, and 0.06 Toe.
RIGHT FRONT had 0.8 Camber, 0.0 Caster, and 0.08 Toe.
I ARRIVED at the shop today with the following specs:
LEFT FRONT:
- CASTER: 0.8
- CAMBER: 1.7
- TOE: 0.39
RIGHT FRONT:
- CASTER: -0.7
- CAMBER: 0.8
- TOE: 0.01
I left the shop with the following specs:
LEFT FRONT:
- CASTER: Unknown (0.8???) <- VERY OUT
- CAMBER: 0.7
- TOE: 0.12
RIGHT FRONT:
- CASTER: Unknown (-0.7???) <- VERY OUT
- CAMBER: 0.7
- TOE: 0.11
KEY DETAILS:
Essentially, they said they can't align it because "The adjustment cams keep moving, and it doesn't hold an alignment"... Their data corroborates this. It seems that they're getting things "tight" and then they're coming apart. This is especially visible when looking at the RH side TOE, which they set at 0.01, and then had somehow jump to 2.36...
I LEFT WITH A TRUCK THAT PULLS WORSE than it did when I arrived, and CURIOUS IF DRIVING IT IS SAFE
CURRENT CONCLUSION:
...I'm at a loss as for what to do. Should I try to replace the Caster/Camber cams? Or the IFS bushings? or what...? I have to do some 150mi of driving over the next two days, and don't have time to do a garage/backyard alignment right now... But, I fear I'll cook my tires without getting this issue sorted now...
ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!
Links I've been looking into:
Y.T. Thread wherein someone is adjusting IFS Cams, and explains this phenomena of "losing tension" on the cams... I imagine this is what the tech experienced today.
Y.T. thread with, essentially, ALIGNMENT 101. Many questions answered here about the alignment PROCESS, albeit not for my series truck
I took the truck to Wheelworks this morning (Firestone subsidiary), and they COULD NOT get it aligned right. Whatever pull I had before is MUCH more serious now...
DETAILS:
BEFORE my first post here were the specs I had on alignment:
LEFT FRONT had 1.0 Camber, 0.8 Caster, and 0.06 Toe.
RIGHT FRONT had 0.8 Camber, 0.0 Caster, and 0.08 Toe.
I ARRIVED at the shop today with the following specs:
LEFT FRONT:
- CASTER: 0.8
- CAMBER: 1.7
- TOE: 0.39
RIGHT FRONT:
- CASTER: -0.7
- CAMBER: 0.8
- TOE: 0.01
I left the shop with the following specs:
LEFT FRONT:
- CASTER: Unknown (0.8???) <- VERY OUT
- CAMBER: 0.7
- TOE: 0.12
RIGHT FRONT:
- CASTER: Unknown (-0.7???) <- VERY OUT
- CAMBER: 0.7
- TOE: 0.11
KEY DETAILS:
Essentially, they said they can't align it because "The adjustment cams keep moving, and it doesn't hold an alignment"... Their data corroborates this. It seems that they're getting things "tight" and then they're coming apart. This is especially visible when looking at the RH side TOE, which they set at 0.01, and then had somehow jump to 2.36...
I LEFT WITH A TRUCK THAT PULLS WORSE than it did when I arrived, and CURIOUS IF DRIVING IT IS SAFE
CURRENT CONCLUSION:
...I'm at a loss as for what to do. Should I try to replace the Caster/Camber cams? Or the IFS bushings? or what...? I have to do some 150mi of driving over the next two days, and don't have time to do a garage/backyard alignment right now... But, I fear I'll cook my tires without getting this issue sorted now...
ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!
Links I've been looking into:
Y.T. Thread wherein someone is adjusting IFS Cams, and explains this phenomena of "losing tension" on the cams... I imagine this is what the tech experienced today.
Y.T. thread with, essentially, ALIGNMENT 101. Many questions answered here about the alignment PROCESS, albeit not for my series truck
Trending Topics
#10
Yea. And 178K on the clock. It's likely time to slam some new Moog bushings in there, me'thinks.
Zero. All my steering 'ish has been replaced within 1000mi.
Absolutely. I'd be really stoked for another head in the mix... I'm driving to-from Santa Cruz tomorrow/saturday... Pm me?
Zero. All my steering 'ish has been replaced within 1000mi.
#11
Rasta - I was a bit skeptical this morning since I previously paid for a lifetime alignment but much to my surprise the guys at Firestone got me back within specs but they were certainly fighting with it. Besides the OME torsions and BJ lift I also installed new upper & lower ball joints, went with Beck Arnley with 555 stamps on em.
Hope you can get it worked out!
Hope you can get it worked out!
#12